YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

[Domush]

That engine sat somewhere for a while. #2 is done like dinner. Amazed that the rings are still in the piston.

The picture looks worse than the cyl feels. It is actually quite smooth save one small ridge which can likely be honed out pretty easily. I'm beginning to think it isn't getting any (or enough) fuel for a full burn. The small (intake?) valve looks like it may be pretty well ready for replacement, too, as it has a bit of an upward curl on the edge of the valve. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

I ran the starter without the head on and cyl #1 and #3 had fuel spitting out of the lines, but #2 never dripped a drop. Otherwise, everything sounded nice and smooth, so the clunking isn't because of a snag anywhere.

I'm going to pull the valves tomorrow as well to check for any bends or excess wear.

Here are some better shots of the inside of the cyls:

#1

#2

#3

It feels as though the small valve on #3 opens harder than the rest, but it may be in my head. Not really sure how to find out. That may be the reason it felt like #3 had the best compression when really it was just tougher to move the valve (guessing).

 

[Johnp33]

All three cylinders show signs of rust, that could be why the rings stuck on #2. I would be looking at an exchange engine from a reputable engine remanufactured. It is worth looking up, the whole thing needs a rebuild and re-bore, to get full core credit the engine must be complete, and assembled.
I rebuilt engines for a living and if you get a .010 over engine bore and crank you will be by far ahead than trying to do it your self. You can chose how much you get exchanged. Minimum I would do is the long block, head and block complete, and the fuel nozzles, even then you will need the pump tested. If you fimd a good re-builder, not necessarily the cheapest, ask what they have as different packages.
You could try Rock Auto for a start, and just google re-builders for diesel engines, farm tractors, Yada,yada, and a list will come up. Then Google there name for complaints.
Just a thought!:thumbsup:

 

[kenmac]

I haven't tried looking but, I don't think these engines are an easy find even used. If possible I would rather rebuild my own. At least You know what you have

 

[Johnp33]

My little loader has a 28 HP three cylinder Yanmar engine.

 

[Domush]

Keep in mind, I'm hoping to do this for as little as possible. I don't have thousands (maybe $800) to plop into this thing. I don't care if it still burns oil after I'm finished, so long as it runs again without a scary knock. Even at the high price of oil, I could buy a LOT of oil for $800.

I may not live here a year or two from now, so I'm not doing this as part of some "it'll last forever when you're done!" goal. I'm trying to keep it pragmatic and trying to get a running tractor that won't explode on me for a year or two, and maybe even sell for a grand or two when the time comes.

I'd love nothing more than to do my first 'real' rebuild, but this isn't a required item for me to live, so it gets what money I have left over to spend on stuff I shouldn't be putting money into in the first place.

I appreciate the advice on the best way to get this thing to be reliable again, but it'll fall on deaf ears, as I just need it to limp along and pull a blade here and there. I'd love a real, nice tractor with a FEL, but this one likely won't be it, and it may not even be in this house (or state). So, are there options for a low budget means to get this thing running without a full-on rebuild or used engine? I've already done some checking on prices of parts on these and it is absurd. Just rings cost $100/piston. That's $300 plus shipping and I haven't even figured out the knock yet

I'll be ordering a micrometer tomorrow (my podunk town doesn't have any..) as well as the nickel and dime expenses like ring pliers, ring compressor, assembly lube, valve lapping compound, suction cup tool thingy, etc. I'll wait on the Hoye order until I know everything I need, as shipping from them adds a lot for one-off orders.

In short, I hate the predicament I'm in, but I don't mind spending a little and working a bit to get it fixed, but I can't drain my account for a tractor I could possibly live without. I like it, but if it's going to cost me $1500+ to get running again it's going on craigslist for parts. :kicks the tractor:

 

[winston1]

I hear what you are saying about the parts costs. It would seem to me what you stated about the #2 injector not putting out fuel may have a lot to do with the knock and the condition of that cylinder. You may want to find why no fuel there to start with. injector pumps aren't cheap either. I think I understand your prediciment and only you can decide what course of action you choose. I'll be pulling for you whatever it is.

 

[Johnp33]

First thing measure the distance from the top of the piston, to the top of the block, on all cylinders that will tell you if there is a bent rod, the cylinders need to be measured you may be able to get away with a hone and re-ring job.
The head do not use any lapping compound, fill the ports with diesel and if the valves leak more than a dribble in 5 seconds they need a regrind. If they are OK the head gasket kit will come with new valve seals, replace them one at a time, if you have a valve spring clamp. I would get the fuel nozzles checked, the pumps are near bulletproof.
I was looking into a fuel transfer pump for my engine and there was a place in Florida that was reasonable. I printed out a full blow up and manual for my engine on line, I do not know where it is. If I can find it I will give you the site.

 

[California]

You didn't ask for advice, but I'll throw in my two bits worth anyway:

Over the past 50 years I've started a lot of projects on the cheap by buying old equipment (or in a couple of cases, rental houses), did some fixing, then either got many years reliable and inexpensive use or else sold and moved up after I understood a little more about the subject. In a few cases I've bailed at little cost when I knew enough to understand it wasn't right for me. And there have been a very few instances where I walked away at near total loss. (Example: it took me a month to find a buyer at $175 for the Ford pickup that got me through college. I knew it was dead reliable but I couldn't convince anyone after they saw it ).

I've won so many of these gambles that I'm not afraid to try another. But you have to go into them with an understanding that sometimes the only cost-effective next step is to abandon the project as-is at a loss and go try something else. I wonder if this Yanmar falls in that category.

 

[284 International]

I've been following this thread, but haven't had anything useful to contribute. You've done an excellent job of restoring your tractor; it's a nice looking machine now. I want to commend you, too, for the good photographs and detailed narrative you share. I hope you are able to make something work for yourself, to keep up your property.

The ring sets I see at Hoye are $47.42 a set. They aren't free, but that's not too bad. An intake valve and guide to replace the tuliped one are $25 ish. An injector and affiliated parts is about $100. With a new head gasket and other ancillary things, you should be able to get out for about $250, realistically, to do that cylinder.

I would suggest swapping injector lines or the injectors from the operating one to the dead cylinder, to isolate if it is a bad injector or if the pump isn't functioning properly, before you spend any money. That may help simplify the decision making progress.

 

[Car Doc]

Domush,

My pet peeve is half azz engine rebuilds but they get done all the time however to save money and do like you said you were happy with you could re-use the bearings if they look good I wouldn't think twice about it.

I would re-ring all the pistons and get some oven cleaner and clean the head up good and air check the valves before tear down, the valves can be lightly chucked at the very top where the keepers go in a cordless drill to lap them in if you are careful and re-air check when done. take a light film of grease around each seat to determine how well they seat just push the valve down dont turn with the grease. If they dont seat a valve job will need done dont skimp on this step or the whole thing will be a big waste of effort valves are THE critical part of n engine running right!

Just for conversation but if you found the right guy grinding 6 seats and 6 valves would not cost very much and that is all you probably need to get by I would do it for a box of beer.

Vern was re-doing his there is plenty of good info on his thread check that out too. As has been mentioned you will need to either take the injectors and pump in and have them pop tested and so forth to fix the suspected fuel system problems, all this is absolute minimum that needs done on a budget. good luck

edit: I forgot to mention how I prep my flat surfaces- I use a rubber sanding block and 80 grit air file sheets torn in half and I use Deep Creep spray oil on the sand paper and the surfaces really helps cut, parts house will sell you a sheet at a time save money a couple is all you need. Now on exhaust manifolds they are heat treated obviously so grinding is the only way to level them and you can use about any straight edge on an exhaust manifold to find the high spots and grind them down gaskets are thick. hth