YM3000-Bad ignition switch ?

[auraaura]

All of a sudden--my key won't turn. No problems, ever, today I inserted the key and it won't move at all. Is my switch worn out? Could my key be worn out? I was going to take the switch out and maybe clean it or lubricate it but I can't figure how to get it out. Took off the access panel under steering wheel but can't figure out how to remove the switch mechanism. Anyone got any suggestions ??

 

[Smoody]

No idea why it doesn't turn, but to remove unscrew the bezel around the key hole, the switch will drop out under the dash.

 

[Car Doc]

My key is like that it works every time as long as I dont pull it out of the switch then I have to wiggle it up and down while turning it. hth

Once mine frees up it works every time again until I pull the key and btw spray oil is your friend spray some right in there. 30 years of rain and dirt must have some detrimental effects.

 

[auraaura]

Stuck at work until Sunday, will attack switch with WD40 then. If that doesn't work how do I grip the bezel, Smoody? The thing is slick chrome....

 

[winston1]

I'm not Smoody but I will butt in as usual. If yours is like mine the bezel has some small slots in it made for an adjustable spanner wrench. [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Small-Pin-Adjustable-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B003JPA1PM[/ame] I took mine off with a pair of channel locks. Left a mark or two but it worked. Probably could put some thin rubber under the jaws and avoid that.

 

[California]

If you're cheap like me: Curve jaw Channellocks - the size for working on sink drains - grip that bezel well and don't mark it up much.

I consider those an essential household tool because they are the only tool that can loosen a too-tight garden hose (or washing machine) coupler without damaging it.

On my YM186D I found the switch assembly installed upside down, and it occasionally needed lock fluid (graphite in solvent) to free it up. I turned it over so the cylinder pins are above the key slot and no more problem. I think water was pocketing in the pins.

 

[Pete Judd]

Easy to hot wire, now I wont share at my age, but cars were easy to do years ago, but diesel's are easy, only have to get it spinning and you can drive it anywhere.

 

[careyo63]

I just used a pair of needle nose pliers and held the Locking Nut in the Grooves/notches. Then reached under the dash and turned the switch and loosened it. Guarentee you it has never been removed and with no cratches on the switch or dash you can't tell that ever was. I was wireing my TS. and new it would be alot easier and the piece of mind to see the Terminals or connections and if they matched the Diagram. Which they did :thumbsup:

 

[auraaura]

OK.....channel lock pliers loosened the bezel with a minimum of scratching.
Took switch out, cleaned, lubed, still won't friggin' move. I guess it's time to start shopping for a replacement. Was building a fence, nail gun, compressor and Yanmar all quit on same day. Not a good day

 

[chriswheeler]

As I remember, the switch on my YM 3000 was fairly cheap. Mine failed about 3 years ago, just changed the switch. Fairly easy to do, just disconect the ground at the battery first to prevent arcs. Take the wires off one terminal at a time and place on the new ignition switch on the same terminal. Best to do one terminal at a time, wires get put on the right terminals that way. With mine, the internal switch failed in the start position, lock part was fine. Hoye has this part,
Chris

 

[auraaura]

Just got my new switch in from Hoye. Only problem is it's completely different from the old switch. Won't even fit in the hole that the old switch came out of. No prob, I can do some filing and grinding and make it fit. The big problem is figuring out which wire goes where. I've got 2 of the 5 wires figured out. Got to trace which one of the 3 remaining go to the starter. The last 2 go to the glow plugs and I think are interchangeable. I think. I hope.
Also the little compartment where the switch and all the wiring lives is right behind the fuel tank and there's about 40 years of accumulated diesel spillage mixed with grime and leaves and pine straw. Also a rat had made a nice nest out of 2 huge balls of twine at some point in time. I'm having fun now !!

 

[California]

Don't make the dumb mistake I did back when I got the YM240. Mud was caked everywhere including a solid brick under the voltage regulator. So I hit it with the pressure washer.

Big mistake - next time I ran it, it smoked both the regulator and alternator.

 

[NHmitch]

You could just buy a cheap push button starter switch at a local auto store, if you are not worried about someone driving it off. Usually they are under $10. A tractor ignition key really does not offer you much protection, because a lot of times you can just put in a screwdriver, and start the tractor, or reach under, and hot wire it. I would go with the push button, unless you have kids that you are worried about starting the tractor when you are not around.
Mitch

 

[deepNdirt]

I'm just curious if the switch had been starting the tractor up to this point and the only problem is the key doesn't turn the switch, Why not order a new Key first? perhaps the old has been worn out,
as had been mentioned the ign. switch can easily be turned, even with an alternative key, I have made a couple of spare keys from old toyota truck keys I've had laying around using the original key as a template cutting the toyota key down to the approx length and file/form the teeth, a few trial fits & files and they work, But on the other hand if the ign. switch has locked up inside you may could have taken it to a locksmith and had them shoot it with graphite to try and free up for you,
we should modify the old saying that goes " if its not broken don't try to fix it" -----> to a new saying "if its not really broken don't replace it" because chances are the replacement isn't an OEM but a Generic replacement, thus now having to modify the tractor to make it work,

 

[chriswheeler]

Wonder if you got the right part?? The one they sent to replace my key switch was a direct replacement. Terminals were exactly the same, marked the same, even the same key fit the lock. Might want to call and ask just to be sure. I just transfered the wires, one terminal at a time to the new switch, no guessing where anything went, worked perfectly. Safety, be sure and disconnect the ground wire from the battery before doing the change or even removing the old switch. I remember getting a nice burn arcing my watch to one of the hot terminals. Just remove the bolt where the wire bolts to the engine on the front right side of the engine.
Chris

 

[California]

Wonder if you got the right part?? The one they sent to replace my key switch was a direct replacement.

This. Auraaura if the one they sent doesn't fit the hole and the wires don't match up - its not the right part. Send it back and try again.

The correct part they should have sent is a perfect replica.

 

[HoyeTractor]

Your new switch should have looked like this --

Yanmar Tractor Parts: IGNITION SWITCH - ORIGINAL YANMAR STYLE

It should be an exact replacement as stated above.


Do you think that someone may have already mounted a universal type switch in a different spot the dash? Maybe the correct switch hole is empty or has been replaced by a gauge or something? Any way to see a picture of your dash?

Edit: Is you switch located in the same spot as the attached picture?

 

[auraaura]

OK, pics attached. Old and new switch side by side. Also pic of dash with switch removed. I'm not really thinking someone has already installed a universal switch because the new switch will will absolutely not fit the hole in the dash. If you'll notice on the pic of the dash there is a cutout in the bottom of the hole that matches a protrusion on the original switch. The part of the new switch that fits in the hole in the dash is shaped nothing like this. I could grind some on the new switch and make it fit, and don't really mind doing this as long as it works "electrically". DeepNdirt, you said I could order a new key.....where could I get one? I'll try it for sure. Markings on the back of new and old switch are completely different also.

 

[deepNdirt]

if I'm not mistaken I have read here on TBN a dealer has or can order the keys we need, if not here is one on-line resource, HOME OF THE EQUIPMENT KEYS - WWW.BEACHSLOCK.COM I think the key you're looking for will be the B-93A

 

[auraaura]

OK, wired up the new switch like I think it ought to be done. Tractor fired right up, but now I'm worried....if I hooked it up wrong could the glow plugs be "glowing" all the time the tractor was running. I'd just unhook the things if I could figure out where they were. I live in south Mississippi and it rarely gets cold enough here to need them anyway.