YM2500 starting issue

[HopKing]

My 2500 has been very reliable...until lately. The problem was random at first. I would go to start the engine and all I would get is a clicking sound (I think from the voltage regulator). The next time, it would start as normal. Eventually it would do nothing but click, and finally nothing at all. I jumped across the starter solenoid and it started just fine. I removed the voltage regulator and it was extremely corroded inside - to the point that the soldered terminals broke when I touched them. I thought this was the problem so I ordered a new voltage regulator (VR-550) and replaced it today. I tried to start it and again nothing, not even a clicking noise. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[BadMojo]

Either the solenoid is going or you have a bad connection on the large lugs at the solenoid.

 

[careyo63]

First make sure you have a good charge on the battery or a good battery.Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight both ends.Check the terminals on the selenoid tight and free of rust. There is a small wire on the selenoid pull it off and with the key turned on you should have 12vdc.If not ignition switch is bad or bad wire conection. If yes selenoid most likely.If the regulater was as bad as you stated I would be looking real hard at other bad connections.

Dang how many times am I ging to miss spell solenoid.

 

[6thgpSF]

I go with what Careyo63 says,esp. those batt. connections.I'd take them off and clean em real good.

 

[kenmac]

That's the 1 thing that I think most people over look .. Keeping the batt. post clean on tractors & vehicles

 

[HopKing]

Thanks for the input. All connections and terminals look good. I checked voltage at the small wire on the starter solenoid and I'm getting 12v with key on so I will focus on the solenoid. Thanks again for the help.

 

[MJPetersen]

Sometimes, especially if you try to start with a low battery, you will get some raised spots on the contact disk in the solenoid. When you take it apart look for that and if you see that just file it smooth and see if that helps you. you are right though that the solenoid is the problem if you have 12 v coming to it in the start posiiton.

Mike

 

[moochie]

After you click for short feel all the conections the warm will be problem
a loose conection or dirty conection is warm or hot this just something
to try

 

[Willl]

and I'm getting 12v

What are you using to read it with and what voltage reading are you getting at the battery ?

 

[HopKing]

I'm using an analog voltmeter to check voltage. I'm getting 12v at the battery, 12v at the solenoid from the battery cable, 11.5v at the ignition switch, and 10.5 volts at the small connection on top of the solenoid when the key is in the start position.
The solenoid sets on top of the starter. Can anybody tell me if the solenoid can be repaired/replaced seperately from the starter or if the starter and solenoid will have to be removed as a whole. The starter will function and start the tractor when shorted across the terminals. Thanks.

 

[Willl]

Reason I asked what you were reading voltage with is cause of the low readings your getting.

Good batt should be closer to 13-13.5

Could it be a bad batt ?

 

[nostep]

I don't know the wiring on that tractor. Does the keyswitch go straight to the starter solenoid, or is there another relay somewhere? It's interesting that it will start fine when shorted across the starter. Might be a bad key switch, or relay if there is one. Could also be corroded connections on the keyswitch.

 

[HopKing]

During the early stages of this problem I did change out the battery but it didn't help. I don't know if there is a relay in the starting ckt. As soon as the swamp dries up a bit (rained all day Friday, snowed about 8 inches yesterday and it all melted today) I'll check into that possibility. As I mentioned in the original post, there used to be a clicking sound when I tried to start it, but now there is nothing. I don't know if that was at the solenoid or possibly a relay.
I read a reply from careyo63 in a different thread where he suggested running a wire from the battery to the small solenoid terminal and if it turned the starter the problem would most likely be connections, ignition switch, wiring, etc. Would that work in this case to confirm/eliminate the solenoid?

 

[BadMojo]

During the early stages of this problem I did change out the battery but it didn't help. I don't know if there is a relay in the starting ckt. As soon as the swamp dries up a bit (rained all day Friday, snowed about 8 inches yesterday and it all melted today) I'll check into that possibility. As I mentioned in the original post, there used to be a clicking sound when I tried to start it, but now there is nothing. I don't know if that was at the solenoid or possibly a relay.
I read a reply from careyo63 in a different thread where he suggested running a wire from the battery to the small solenoid terminal and if it turned the starter the problem would most likely be connections, ignition switch, wiring, etc. Would that work in this case to confirm/eliminate the solenoid?

A quick dirty check to be sure it is the solenoid and not something upstream on the switch wire, use your meter to determine which of the large terminal lugs on the solenoid is always hot(one side is directly connected to the batter) and use something (an old screw driver works well) to short between that hot terminal and the spade lug for the wire from the switch. If it cranks over the problem is somewhere back along the wire to the switch, if not, either the coil in the solenoid has broken down (mag wire has lost it's lamination and it's shorting out to itself and is no longer an effective coil) or the contactor platesin the solenoid are carbonized/burnt. Basically doing the same thing as shorting between the two large lugs, but this way keeps the solenoid in the circuit.

 

[careyo63]

Bench Testing a Starter Motor This should help

Carey

 

[MJPetersen]

If it works by shorting from the small terminal on the solenoid and the bat terminal then the problem is NOT the starter or the solenoid, the problem is in the switch or one of the connections between the bat to switch or switch to solenoid. That kind of volt drop at the switch and again at the sol terminal is too high.

suggestion: clean terminals at the switch, if nothing still, then short across terminals at switch, if it works then the problem is the switch, if it does not, then the problem is in the wiring. (One side note the clutch safety switch is sometimes the problem. Temporarily bypass it and check then.)

Mike

 

[Solman]

I had the exact same problem with my 3000. My voltage regulator looked just like HopKing described and one of the resitors was hanging loose after the soldered connection rusted in two. I replaced it with a compatible VR521 from NAPA and still the click without starting.

I then started at the battery and cleaned, filed and/or sanded every nut, washer and bolt connection all the way to the starter and solenoid. All of these surfaces were rusty and some had been painted over. I had already previously cleaned my fuse box and fuse connections. I cleaned each mating surface until all points ohmed out at 1.5 ohms or less. The switch box was good as I tested it by checking ohms at each switch position.

This finally solved my problem.