Buying Advice YM240D. Good deal?

[Scooter86]

Hi all, I am looking at an 1982(?) Yanmar 240D. I am a tractor rookie and have basically zero knowledge or experience purchasing or operating anything beside small garden tractors.

The listing offers the following info: "4x4, gear drive, 3 pt hitch, PTO, 25 h twin cylinder diesel, 1178 hours, no power steering for $5450." Photo from the listing attached.

I live on a 1.5 acres that backs up to a river. I intend to to use the tractor to maintain a dirt path from the house to the river, including some digging to make minor adjustments to the grade and route of the path. Beyond that I foresee using for landscaping purposes (moving medium sized boulders, prepping ground for concrete walkway/patio and moving some dirt to fill in low spots in the yard) nothing too major.

Would this tractor be up to these tasks? I understand Yanmar is known for building quality diesel engines. Any advice, suggestions, or pertinent info is much appreciated.

 

[fried1765]

Hi all, I am looking at an 1982(?) Yanmar 240D. I am a tractor rookie and have basically zero knowledge or experience purchasing or operating anything beside small garden tractors.

The listing offers the following info: "4x4, gear drive, 3 pt hitch, PTO, 25 h twin cylinder diesel, 1178 hours, no power steering for $5450." Photo from the listing attached.

I live on a 1.5 acres that backs up to a river. I intend to to use the tractor to maintain a dirt path from the house to the river, including some digging to make minor adjustments to the grade and route of the path. Beyond that I foresee using for landscaping purposes (moving medium sized boulders, prepping ground for concrete walkway/patio and moving some dirt to fill in low spots in the yard) nothing too major.

Would this tractor be up to these tasks? I understand Yanmar is known for building quality diesel engines. Any advice, suggestions, or pertinent info is much appreciated.

Though it may not make a difference in this particular situation, listing your GENERAL LOCATION in your profile can be helpful with valuation, and other questions.
As an example: If you live in Oregon or Maine, that Yanmar may have more (or less?) value than in Alabama or Texas.

 

[California]

YM240D is a competent and indestructible model. In 2003 I bought a YM240 (2 wd) in near abandoned condition. After a month of fixing and replacing grossly neglected stuff like the dash warning lights dangling down by my knee and loose bolts everywhere, the tractor turned out to be solid and it's needed near nothing beyond ordinary maintenance - same as a new tractor would require - ever since. It still looks thrashed but the reliability is flawless. See my sig photo at the bottom of this post.

That's a fair, typical price. You might see what else is available in that price range. Power steering is the one thing I miss having.

Also, all of these Yanmars are narrow so put a ROPS on it! And water ballast in the tires will help resist tipping. Your application improving the path down to the river is going to include some dangerous side slope activity and if you slide a little sideways it could get a even steeper. People die in rollovers. Again, get a ROPS.

You'll love it.

And welcome!

 

[Scooter86]

Good advice. I'm located near Grand Rapids, MI. This is now indicated in my profile as well.

 

[Scooter86]

Thanks for the input California. I have been doing a some reading regarding the power steering (or lack there of). Seems like opinions are somewhat split in terms of how "necessary" power steering is. My thought was it would certainly be nicer but not an absolute necessity. Good advice on the ROPS, considering the additional cost perhaps it is time to keep looking.

 

[winston1]

If that tractor is in good condition with loader and 4 wheel drive it would be a good buy here in East Texas. 4 wheel drive and loaders make tractors expensive.

 

[California]

I get by without power steering but its definitely an Old School experience if I have a lot of loader work to do. Thankfully that's a minor part of what I use that Yanmar for.

Maybe split the cost of the ROPS with the seller? Estimate a little under $800 total for the ROPS.

 

[rScotty]

Thanks for the input California. I have been doing a some reading regarding the power steering (or lack there of). Seems like opinions are somewhat split in terms of how "necessary" power steering is. My thought was it would certainly be nicer but not an absolute necessity. Good advice on the ROPS, considering the additional cost perhaps it is time to keep looking.

How necessary power steering is sort of depends on what you do with the loader. If it's mostly for hauling trash and tools then no problem. And you can even do some dirt work IF you aren't trying to move the dirt very far. If you anticipate moving dirt or rocks any distance then power steering is your friend - especially traveling over uneven ground.

Our first couple of tractors didn't have power steering. To move a loader bucket full of dirt any distance required putting the bucket on the ground with enough down pressure to lighten the front axle, then make the necessary change in steering, and then raise the bucket off the ground and take off -- all the time fighting with the wheel and the wheel brakes and the slope to keep heading in the right direction. Go ten yards and repeat. We got the work done, but it's a young man's game. They were OK tractors for their price and sure beat doing work by hand....but the lack of power steering is why we don't have them anymore.
rScotty

 

[clemsonfor]

That's probably what the tractor should sell for. Make sure every works, like all the main things. Like engine is not knocking and transmission runs and shifts all gears.
As California said they are strong and durable tractors. It would be perfect for 1.5 acres of what you need . To let you know the color is totally wrong but that does not really matter. There a lime green color, look at California signature at his tractor .

I have the grey model (ym2000) of this tractor that basically is identical except color and throttle position ( faster pulls down instead of pushing up) and your has an internal over run clutch. I love the tractor and done work way beyond it's size

 

[clemsonfor]

It also appears that the front tires are turned to be in the wide position, you will need to swap those back, because there not designed to be run that way and it puts extra in needed stress in the very venerable front spindles especially with a loader. They are available now thanks to hoye making them but at one point we're not. Maybe it's the HD version they make, but there still to be had.
The rear tires on the other hand are designed to be run in the wide position as those are

 

[Scooter86]

Thank you for all of your responses! Your wisdom is greatly appreciated and very useful. The tractor pictured in my original post got scooped up before I had a chance to go take a look. However I have come to terms ($5800) with a gentleman on the exact same tractor, only in (what appears to be) better condition. It has 650 original hours (more likely 1650?) and it comes with a brush hog. Ill add a photo of the new one. It is located several hours away, I am driving there saturday am to drive, inspect, and hopefully bring home.

Which brings me to my next quesiton... what types of things should I be on the lookout for when I check it out (beyond what Clemsonfor already mentioned)? Any general (or model specific) advice for a first time tractor buyer? I read an article about buying used diesel tractors which mentioned "a little black smoke on start-up is ok but blue smoke is bad" what could blue smoke indicate? Thanks again in advance, I am VERY excited at the prospect of becoming a YM240 owner and don't want to get lost in that and overlook something that I will kick myself for down the road.

 

[Scooter86]

Forgot the pics

 

[fried1765]

Forgot the pics View attachment 645825View attachment 645826View attachment 645827View attachment 645828

With 1650 hours that would seem to be a very fair deal, though depending on loader use and operator, it could be close to needing a new clutch.
If it really only has 650 hours I think it is a SMOKIN deal !!!
Nice looking machine.
Hope you get this one.

 

[California]

That one looks decent.

It's normal for these to sound like they are about to throw a rod, that's just 'Yanmar hammer' (fuel knock). Smoke on acceleration is normal. Both are typical for Old School designs like this. Blue smoke is oil that got past the rings or possibly down the valve guides, on a 40 year old tractor a little is harmless.

More important listen to it crank, without using the compression release. There should be noticeable resistance as it reaches each TDC indicating good compression. And low compression will crank but not fire. (Normal starting is crank with compression relieved to get flywheel inertia assisting the starter then drop the decompression lever).

From the pictures that looks good. If the air cleaner is external on the left and the hood decal is original then that is the final year version, 1981. Decal on the prior ones was 'YM240D'.

If its as good as it looks I would buy it.

 

[rScotty]

I like that second one a lot better than the first one. Looks like original paint, too. That counts for a lot, because it tells a lot about what the tractor's life has been like.

Yes, could well be 650 hours. Especially if the owner preferred to work it at a low idle instead of would up to full RPM. Those hour meters are actually RPM driven, and they count one hour as being at full rated RPM. So if you run at about half to 2/3 full throttle as I do - with periods of idle between working - the hours on the meter accumulate very slowly.

From the photos, that tractor has that hard-to-define quality that makes it seem like a good one. The wear seems to be in all the right places rather than where you see it on abused machines.
So I like it. You aren't going to find much better for the price - if at all. I think you gained by waiting.
rScotty

 

[careyo63]

Nice find!! I'd like to have that one also. My 2000 is 2wd. so I stay away from a loader. Use a rear scoop though, If I was 4wd. I may consider it. Used a 50Hp 2wd. JD. with a FEL. Quick connect bucket. The bucket actually stayed off, and it's limited of how and what you can do with it. I may have attached it a couple times a Yr. Tops. My dash etc. looks to be the same. What I did notice is a PTO Guard but no ROP. That's weird and amazed the the ROP. patrol on here hasn't brought that up!!! ROP. Just hit a Thread next to this on here. WOW!!! and a photo posted was removed from a Yanmar from India didn't have a ROP..?

 

[CoyPatton]

On the smoke issue, California has it nailed. Remember you are looking at a 40 yr old tractor and a compact tractor at that. With these size tractors it is most common to start them do a project and then park it. The start process is the biggest wear issue. We do not use these like my cousin does his really big farm tractors, they start them in the morning and run them all day and then some part of the time.
Again a little blue smoke especially at start up is not a biggie. Black smoke when starting, accelerating or under a heavy work low are to be expected. Black smoke represents unburnt fuel. A bit of white smoke is also no biggie. If you live in an area when temps drop quite a bit from warm/hot to cool day to night, then some condensation is to be expected. But again this should burn off pretty quick. If it has been running for several minutes and still puts out white (some call it gray but still whiteish) smoke then it likely is burning coolant.
Check all loader and 3ph functions—hydraulics, PTO, diif lock, throttle response (including foot throttle), front drive train.
On a side note, the rear wheels with dish out is best for stability and front wheels dish in is best for front axle integrity. That is how this tractor is set up.
By looks in the pictures you found a good machine. Lack of abuse of the body, loader tends to indicate the mechanicals have been looked after also. Unfortunately, even it tractor owners you find the odd ball that will wash and wax weekly but never change the oil.
Oh on engine oil, expect it to be black, but not milky or low. Also check the hydraulic oil (should have a dip stick in the fill port on top of hump on operators station) and front diff (should also be a dip stick on the fill port on the front axle). Front diff uses gear oil.
Also ask questions of folks on this forum. Lots of very knowledgable folks here.

 

[clemsonfor]

I like that tractor better. These are simple and bullet proof tractors. And they can take a surprising amount of abuse and neglect and still run for decades more if you fix minor things that can cause more damage and you actually service things like oil and transmission.

 

[rScotty]

Did you buy it?

 

[Jtullis13]

Sorry late to the show here, but also wondering if you bought it. If I was in that area I would have jumped on that one, its a nice looking tractor.