Yanmar YM240D OVERHEATING

[Bugyman]

Hello from a newby! New to this forum and new to diesel. I bought this tractor (YM240 D) from a co-worker who is from California and was not acustomed to Kansas winters. He neglected to check the antifreese and the water jacket got a nasty crack which he repaired with J-B Weld about 3 times over about 7 years. he just re-did it this spring although it leaks just a little now. Now he told me that it over heats after mowing 20 min. but I put a mech. temp. gauge in it and it climbs to 140 in 20 min. without stresing the engine. I ran a flush and refilled the coolan, and cleaned out the radiator fins but still hot. Can't find a thermostat (does this tractor have one?) I can tell the coolant is circulating. Now I took off the air cleaner lid while runing and can feel air puffing out the intake, bad valves? tractor has decent power (I juess) it fires right up every time, and runs smooth.

 

[bruce1966us]

That tractor will run up to 232F before it is considered to be overheating.

 

[Gizmo36]

If the Light is coming on get you a new Temperature sending unit. that will fix it.

 

[Bugyman]

If the Light is coming on get you a new Temperature sending unit. that will fix it.

I took the sending unit out to install the mechanical temp gauge, which I belive is a much better indicator.

 

[normde2001]

This is confusing, are you saying 140 degrees is hot?(is that celsius or American?)...no thermostat. There are too many good tractors out there to buy one with a cracked block.

 

[Bugyman]

Well, he has used it (maybe not worked it hard) for years with the crack. And I got it with the brush hog and box blade for $1200. Any way, youre saying it has no thermostat?

 

[normde2001]

No thermostat

 

[justanotherjoe]

Bugyman- My 240D has a small crack in the block behind the starter. Bought it that way for $1800, money back guarantee. That was 1500 operating hours ago. Mine runs cooler on all water with some additive, no antifreeze.
With that extra air source in the block, I had a lot of rust. After treatment and thoroughly flushing the block, had the radiator re-done and no problems since then.
Over a 20 year period in no-freeze California, think how much water could be evaporated/distilled out of a radiator on a diesel engine. All the dissolved minerals stay in the unit, what evaporates is pure water.

 

[normde2001]

Bugyman- My 240D has a small crack in the block behind the starter. Bought it that way for $1800, money back guarantee. That was 1500 operating hours ago. Mine runs cooler on all water with some additive, no antifreeze.
With that extra air source in the block, I had a lot of rust. After treatment and thoroughly flushing the block, had the radiator re-done and no problems since then.
Over a 20 year period in no-freeze California, think how much water could be evaporated/distilled out of a radiator on a diesel engine. All the dissolved minerals stay in the unit, what evaporates is pure water.

You should be using 50/50 mix of distilled water and aintfreeze in your radiator.

 

[Bugyman]

Well i'm back, seems i've got way too many irons on the fire any-hoo first let me say that after reading my previous post i must have had a brain fart its running 240+ not 140. Ive been running it till it heats up then letting it cool down trying to get some nesesary work done (hopefully I havnt harmed it) now i've brought it home and torn into it expecting to find the water jacket pluged up (previous owner used that powdered metal "stop leak" when the J-B weld would start leaking) but only found rust and rust scale piled in the low areas. the head gasket looked good, but with all the over heating i'm going to take the head to be checked for warping. Im also takeing the radiator to be cleaned out. Now, anyone jot any ideas on how to thourly clean out the block? also howabout welding up the block, can it be done?

 

[Bugyman]

Here are some pictures that may help.

 

[kenmac]

You can try to weld it .I use nickle rod for cast iron. If you'er having problems with it now . you have nothing to loose to try the weld route.

 

[normde2001]

Well i'm back, seems i've got way too many irons on the fire any-hoo first let me say that after reading my previous post i must have had a brain fart its running 240+ not 140. Ive been running it till it heats up then letting it cool down trying to get some nesesary work done (hopefully I havnt harmed it) now i've brought it home and torn into it expecting to find the water jacket pluged up (previous owner used that powdered metal "stop leak" when the J-B weld would start leaking) but only found rust and rust scale piled in the low areas. the head gasket looked good, but with all the over heating i'm going to take the head to be checked for warping. Im also takeing the radiator to be cleaned out. Now, anyone jot any ideas on how to thourly clean out the block? also howabout welding up the block, can it be done?

I believe I'm seeing totally blocked water passages. About all you can do, short of removing the engine, stripping and taking the block to a machine shop for cleaning and welding, is poke out the water passages with a wire, to hopefully get some water flow, put it back together, start running radiator flush, and hope for the best. You may have to live with the crack.

 

[greatrandini]

You should weld it or replace the block. Do you know that antifreeze is very toxic to children, pets, and wild life? If you go around dripping antifreeze all over your land....well it is not good. I think a skilled welder could weld that up for you no problem. Where in Kansas do you live? Alot of these old boy farmers have alot of experience welding up blocks. Now is the time to do it. When you have the head off and it is dry. You should have your radiator boiled out. I think with all that rust in your block your radiator has got to be bad.....Welcome to the yanmar forum..

 

[Jagmandave]

Yes, depending on where in Ks you are, I could point you to someone who could weld it up, he's done some cast iron welding for me already and did a great job. Let us know where you are, OK?

 

[Bugyman]

I'm in Kansas City KS. near I-70 & I-435. If I could find someone who has made this repair before that would be great.

 

[fireraven80]

u realy need to have that block vated before u have someone fix it.

sorry for the typo. acid vating it where u have the block dipped by a engine shop into acid it eats all the junk of out the block would clean it up like new and i think it will take the quick steel off as well for an easier weild. but if he is gonan keep the block its a sure fire way to get all the grime removed from his water path.

 

[Jagmandave]

Vated?

Bugyman, I'll send you a PM with a guys name - he's in Eudora, just about 10 miles south of you off K-10.

Obviously, the best thing to do would be to replace the block with a good one, but if none are available or too expensive, this might do the trick.

 

[normde2001]

If you had to remove, and strip or replace that engine, you would be better off to just "part it out" and buy something else.

 

[California]

Here's a 2Q Yanmar boat engine block, on ebay. I think it is the same as YM2000 but please verify!!!!

eBay Motors: Yanmar 2QM Block and Transmission w/wire harness (item 160044925390