yanmar ym 2000 won't start

[garyd]

Well here's the latest I've called a few of the local diesel shops to see if they can check the injectors no luck yet seems they send injectors to salt lake city. There should be a shop local that can check them I'll try the Deere dealer monday or tuesday. I feel kind of stupid as part of the problem has been taken care of by adjusting the valves. THANKS SAHTOBULL!! Sorry I need to read the posts fully. Since I could not find a shop over the weekend to check the injectors, I replaced them in the head. Pulled the valve cover and checked the valve lash it was open on all valves closed them down to .008". The fuel could have been suspect so drained the tank and replaced fuel. After adjusting the valves changing the fuel bleeding the fuel system the tractor will start but only idles with still lots of white gray smoke. smoke burns your eyes smells like diesel. while the tractor is running I cracked open the banjo fitting on the injectors on one it seemed to quite it down some on the other it killed the tractor. what do you guys think bad injector low compression, both? How do youu check compression? push in gauge in the injector port? AS all ways thank you guys for the suggestions I know its hard to dignose when you can't see, hear or smell.
Gary<><

 

[mark777]

............ smoke burns your eyes smells like diesel. while the tractor is running I cracked open the banjo fitting on the injectors on one it seemed to quite it down some on the other it killed the tractor.......
Gary<><

I think you've discovered the problem. The injector that killed the engine is the GOOD one...

Mark

 

[1danny]

Well here's the latest I've called a few of the local diesel shops to see if they can check the injectors no luck yet seems they send injectors to salt lake city. There should be a shop local that can check them I'll try the Deere dealer monday or tuesday. I feel kind of stupid as part of the problem has been taken care of by adjusting the valves. THANKS SAHTOBULL!! Sorry I need to read the posts fully. Since I could not find a shop over the weekend to check the injectors, I replaced them in the head. Pulled the valve cover and checked the valve lash it was open on all valves closed them down to .008". The fuel could have been suspect so drained the tank and replaced fuel. After adjusting the valves changing the fuel bleeding the fuel system the tractor will start but only idles with still lots of white gray smoke. smoke burns your eyes smells like diesel. while the tractor is running I cracked open the banjo fitting on the injectors on one it seemed to quite it down some on the other it killed the tractor. what do you guys think bad injector low compression, both? How do youu check compression? push in gauge in the injector port? AS all ways thank you guys for the suggestions I know its hard to dignose when you can't see, hear or smell.
Gary<><

Like Mark said, sounds like you have a bad injecyor nozzle, the valves set on .006.

Danny

 

[SATOHBULL]

If you haven't found a place to test them, you can always swap the two injector nozzles the run the test you did. Loosen each nut until fuel sprays and see if the miss followed the injector. If it did, I would just buy replacements. If not, then the nozzle is not the problem.

 

[Eddie]

If you haven't found a place to test them, you can always swap the two injector nozzles the run the test you did. Loosen each nut until fuel sprays and see if the miss followed the injector. If it did, I would just buy replacements. If not, then the nozzle is not the problem.

Good trouble shooting proceedure.

 

[garyd]

Update, well got in from the shop. I changed the injectors around body and all not just nozzles. The problem did not follow the injector but remained in the front cyclinder. What eles should I try before I remove the head? Thanks Gary<><

 

[spyder2]

I am sorry to have to say this Gary but I think you may have a broken ring on the offending cylinder. First do a compression test before you pull the head. I am afraid that it looks like you may have some work ahead of you. I do not know diesel engines as well as gasoline engines but I think that something caused low compression on that cylinder. It could be wear but then the two cylinders should have roughly the same compression reading. It could be a damaged valve or valve seat also. I hope it is the latter because then you do not need to open the whole engine. Good Luck

Marnus

 

[normde2001]

If I recall correctly, you still don't know if the injector pump is putting out correct pressure. Removing the head will not show a bad ring, so if you remove it and don't find any valve problem, your only recourse will be to remove the oil pan and knock the pistons out, (complete overhaul); thus the reason for troubleshooting everything possible before tearing into the engine.

 

[garyd]

Good Morning TBN
Yes Norm you are correct I dont know what the compression of the cyclinders are or if the injector pump is giving proper pressure to the injectors. How should I check fuel pressure and engine compression? The local autozone has many tools for lending, maybe they have the proper gauges. Thanks Norm
Gary<><

 

[Tom_Veatch]

"How should I check fuel pressure and engine compression?"

Last compression testing I did was on a 1967 Chevy 327 that had a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio. That Camaro was one fun auto - but that's another story. I'm sure it's a whole 'nother world with diesels, but I saw this in the HF flyer that came yesterday (It's gotta be a good one!):

El-Cheapo Diesel Compression Tester

 

[kenmac]

If every thing that you have done still leads you to the front cyl. You must not have enough compression to fire the fuel . Do the compression test on all cylinders & compare to the front. You should b able to rent a compression tester from local auto parts.

 

[normde2001]

Good Morning TBN
Yes Norm you are correct I dont know what the compression of the cyclinders are or if the injector pump is giving proper pressure to the injectors. How should I check fuel pressure and engine compression? The local autozone has many tools for lending, maybe they have the proper gauges. Thanks Norm
Gary<><

Everybody says, "just do a compression check". Ain't that easy on a diesel. First you need a diesel gauge, capable of 300-400psi, then hope it has an adapter that is compatible with Yanmar injectors. I would start with the "el-cheapo" that Tom mentions. The only way to test an injector pump is to remove it and take it to an injector shop, if you can't tell anything by the spray cone.

 

[kenmac]

if it will fit the yanmar injector & will read high enough for a diesel, I would check auto parts as they will let you use the too for free. They charge you a fee but, return the fee when you return the tool.If you have autozone or advance in your area , they offer the free loan a tool.Keep us posted on what you find wrong with your tractor

 

[1danny]

Update, well got in from the shop. I changed the injectors around body and all not just nozzles. The problem did not follow the injector but remained in the front cyclinder. What eles should I try before I remove the head? Thanks Gary<><

Swap the injector lines, if the front cylinder is still bad pull the head, there are a lot things it could be, broken rings, busted piston, bad valves, bent rod, spun rod bearing. I have one in my shop right now with a spun bearing. If the rear cylinder is bad after you swap lines, then it's time to take the injector pump to the shop. This is assuming all the other things you did was correct.

Danny

 

[bruce1966us]

Swap the injector lines

Danny

Will this affect the timing that the injector is supposed to open for each cylinder?

 

[Tom_Veatch]

Swap the injector lines, ... If the rear cylinder is bad after you swap lines, then it's time to take the injector pump to the shop. ...
Danny

Ok, Danny, I guess it time to show my ignorance of diesel engines or my misunderstanding of your post, whichever is greater.

Now I'm thinking of the injector pump as sort of similar to the distributor in a gasoline engine and the injector lines as similar to the spark plug wires. At least as far as timing and ignition are concerned. If that analogy is anywhere close, if you swap the lines (wires) only at the injector (spark plug) end OR at the pump (distributor) end, but not both, then the engine is seriously mistimed, at least for a 2 cyl, 4 cycle engine. Maybe not on a 2 cyl, 2 cycle if such an animal exists. If you swap the lines (wires) at both ends, then you are testing the lines (wires) but that says little or nothing about the injector pump (distributor). Couldn't the lines be tested by simply blowing through them or something to ensure they aren't blocked?

Ok, does that sufficiently reveal my ignorance? What am I missing?

 

[kenmac]

I don't know about cams in a diesel engines but, I had a cam lobe go on my drag car once and it ran like crap. I'am with danny, it could be a # of things . If it were mine, I would start with the least expensive thing 1 st .I may have missed it in one of the post . Is this something that happened over time ? Or did it happen all at once ?

 

[garyd]

Hello Gents
My education continues! I got my hands on rubber tipped push in compression gauge this evening from a local mechanic. The gauge is a k&d tool rated to 300 psi. I pulled the injectors out ( man I'm getin good at that). The mechanic said to take a dry reading and a wet reading (shot of wd-40 in the cyclinder). Three revolutions per reading, The first reading on the front cyc. 105 psi. moved to rear 108 psi. round 2 wet 175psi front 185 psi rear. I moved back and forth cheaking the pressures but they did not seem to very as I thought they would with a internal mechanical problem. At one point I pegged the gauge at 300 psi. I also blew the top of the prechamber up and out of the injector port. I dont know what psi I should be seeing but dont believe the readings as accurate only in the respect that they are comperable. Is that right thinking? I put it back together started it up white smoke no power dies if I crack front injector line. I had the idea break both lines at injectors and pump and blow compressed air through the lines to see if there was a blockage. That seemed ok then I switch the lines a the pump to see if the problem would move to the rear cyc. never could get her to start. I think timing is a problem there as Tom has stated. It had not dawned on me until I came into post and read your post Tom. I'm thinking the injector pump is suspect. I read or heard some were you could add motor oil to your diesel too increase viscosity. I dont know about that though? The diesel mechanic also told me that they in the shop prefere to us compressed air in to the cyclinder via the injector port in big cat engines to see were the air my leak from exhaust valve intake valve and so on. Oh reset the valves .006 Thanks Danny. I miss read that .008 in the spec. You know It's nice to talk to you guys, thank all of you for reading and commenting. I think we are getting closer!
Gary<><

 

[mark777]

Gary,

I don't believe your compression tester is adequate as we're talking nearly 20 to 1 compression on a diesel rather than 8.5 to 1 on a gas engine. Your one time pegged reading at 300 psi is even too low and IMO not an accurate indication of the compression stroke.

Danny, after re-reading your post, do I understand this to mean you believe someone has timed this engine on TDC - #2 cylinder? This makes perfect sense to me as I have a 3T75U that has been timed on #3 cylinder, runs nearly identical to Garyd"s (poorly with eye burning exhaust) and many other symptoms like his YM2000.

Good luck Gary,

Mark

 

[1danny]

Will this affect the timing that the injector is supposed to open for each cylinder?

Bruce, I forgot to put in the part about re-timing. The best thing would be to take the pump to the shop and let them check it, I don't belive his problem is in the fuel delivery system, but I could be wrong.

Danny