Yanmar 2200 Drowned??

[FarmerJohn_2]

My faithful old YM2200 sat up for the past 2-3 years while I struggled with health issues. I went out last spring to try to turn it over and water came spurting from the exhaust stack. Upon inspection, the debris cap on the air intake is missing and the shed roof had a leak. I was so discouraged I just left it sitting there. I am now considering whether it is worth the time, effort and expense of trying to repair it. If there is rust in the cylinders all may be lost. Anyone have any helpful advice or encouragement?? These old 2 cylinder Yanmars are reliable and fairly indestructible - but I may have managed to do it.

 

[ponytug]

If you didn't hydrolock it, and damage a crankshaft or camshaft, you might try loosening the injectors, and hand cranking to see if the engine turns. If it does, and it feels ok, you are probably in ok, if not pretty good, shape. While you are there, I would double check the intake side for water or mice...

I suspect that the water spurting out of the exhaust was just in the exhaust, or you wouldn't have been able to turn it over. (Hydro lock)

Once you do get it running, I would change all the filters and engine oil.

All the best,

Peter

 

[crashz]

I'd at least try to get it going. Charge up the battery, oil change, fuel filter and fresh fuel.

I can't imagine enough water got into it to hydrolock it, and you already cranked it over, so why not?

I've seen many old engines that have sat a LONG time run pretty good after an initial re-break-in.

 

[ponytug]

My only concern is that while it cranked initially, there may be lots of water in the exhaust that could potentially leak back into the engine in whatever new crank position it stopped at. Hence, my caution to loosen the injectors above.

Like you, @crashz, I have seen lots of engines comeback for years of standing out in the rain with an open exhaust. So I am optimistic.

All the best, Peter

 

[alexpops]

looks like most of those yanmars are sleeved, so in a worst case, you could get the rebuild kit, re-sleeve the cylinders, replace rings, pistons & bearings & be back to new. Head work may be required if the valves were sitting in water. Assuming no Crank/Cam damage that can't be fixed at a machine shop

 

[California]

Wouldn't just wedging the compression release open be simpler than pulling the injectors?

Maybe just my imagination but I've wondered if Yanmar included that feature just in case a rice paddy was too deep.

 

[ponytug]

Wouldn't just wedging the compression release open be simpler than pulling the injectors?

Maybe just my imagination but I've wondered if Yanmar included that feature just in case a rice paddy was too deep.

Well, it is close, but I don't think that it is quite the same. A compression release keeps the valve(s) open. My memory is that it is the exhaust valve on the smaller Yanmars. If that is right, there isn't a mechanism for pulling fresh air in and exhausting out the exhaust valve, so the water in the exhaust system sloshes in and out. So, if you close the decompression lever when the cylinder has sloshed more than a little water into the cylinder from the exhaust, there is a risk of "Bang!" and the engine just hydrolocked itself. If the engine was spinning at a good clip as the starter was cranking over, and it hydrolocked, my experience is that it doesn't end well for anyone.

Removing the injectors means that as the engine rotates, fresh air will get pulled in on the intake cycle, and the exhaust cycle will let water flow out the injector port, or more correctly from the exhaust manifold through the cylinder and out. If I am rotating the crank, and a bunch of water starts spilling, I can stop, vacuum it up, or blow compressed air to flush it out the exhaust. When the water is out, you can have a quick look down the injector port for a quick look size on how bad things are. (Or use a boroscope, if you have one.)

Once the engine is spinning freely, it is probably in pretty good shape. I tend to assume that if there was water in the exhaust, there is some water in the oil as well. (And may be a lot of water.) You want to make sure that the crankcase isn't over full with an oil/water mix before trying to start it. Ditto the fuel system.

Does that make sense?

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

I'd at least try to get it going. Charge up the battery, oil change, fuel filter and fresh fuel.

I can't imagine enough water got into it to hydrolock it, and you already cranked it over, so why not?

I've seen many old engines that have sat a LONG time run pretty good after an initial re-break-in.

Drain and inspect the engine oil for water first. Simple and easy enough to tell how bad things really are. If no water or white sludge, remove the exhast manifold and shop-vac all water out. A heater, heat gun, hair dryer can assist. Lube the piston tops and rings with Seafoam. Let it sit a few hours soaking. Now you can turn the engine by hand while in netrual and engine decompression cable pulled. Turn the engine, do not start. Work any and all rusty flakes out. Flush engine oil area with diesel. You may have to do this task more than once to flush. Once flushed put parts back together, fill engine oil with 5W30 T5 or T4 diesel, and start the engine.

 

[bmaverick]

Drain and inspect the engine oil for water first. Simple and easy enough to tell how bad things really are. If no water or white sludge, remove the exhast manifold and shop-vac all water out. A heater, heat gun, hair dryer can assist. Lube the piston tops and rings with Seafoam. Let it sit a few hours soaking. Now you can turn the engine by hand while in netrual and engine decompression cable pulled. Turn the engine, do not start. Work any and all rusty flakes out. Flush engine oil area with diesel. You may have to do this task more than once to flush. Once flushed put parts back together, fill engine oil with 5W30 T5 or T4 diesel, and start the engine.

PS, if you like, Lucas fuel treatment to lube the piston rings can be done before putting all the parts back on. The trick is keeping things free from corrosion, scratches in the engine sleeved walls, and contaminents out.

 

[gstrom99]

My faithful old YM2200 sat up for the past 2-3 years while I struggled with health issues. I went out last spring to try to turn it over and water came spurting from the exhaust stack. Upon inspection, the debris cap on the air intake is missing and the shed roof had a leak. I was so discouraged I just left it sitting there. I am now considering whether it is worth the time, effort and expense of trying to repair it. If there is rust in the cylinders all may be lost. Anyone have any helpful advice or encouragement?? These old 2 cylinder Yanmars are reliable and fairly indestructible - but I may have managed to do it.

ONE post, in almost 23 years? Well, closer to 21. Welcome.