About 50 of these
Hire a guy with a decent sized excavator to come in and pull them.
Price/effort/time/reward that'll win hands down IMHO.
About 50 of these
I mentioned to the dealer - annd he was trying to sell me the 494!I may be mistaken, but thought turbos add more complexity.
Dealer said he’s had zero break-fix jobs on these turbos.Turbos in the good old turbo Diesels are still reliable.
Older such engines for from Catepillar, John Deere, International Harvester, Cummins etc. are good examples.
In the boating world, they call this two-footitis: more is always better. I promised my better half I’d even name it after her if I could increase my spend a little. FYI, those stainless cooking pans hurt almost as much as the cast iron ones!I have no experience or input for the turbo. I can say that it's a lot easier to have a lack of HP or weight than it is to have an excess. My next to last tractor was an L3200. They wanted another $1,500 for an L3900. The L3200 was replacing a B7500 and the extra 11HP and 1,000# was substantial. Turns out that after a half dozen years of the L3200 I wished I'd have gone with the L3900. Of course had that been the case I may not have gone with the L4240![]()
Great post, thanks!Any addition increases complexity.
Turbos are good at increased elevations. They pump more air into the cylinders.
New school turbos are much more reliable than old ones.
If you are working your machine hard before you shut down it's good to let the engine idle for a few minutes. It gives the turbo time to cool down and cycle oil through.
Other than that I've had no issues.
I always wondered why they called it two-footitis. I went from a 18' to a 24' and then looked at over 30'. Two feet is just not enough for most boaters. But as you get older the downsizing starts. Now we are happy with the pontoon.In the boating world, they call this two-footitis: more is always better. I promised my better half I’d even name it after her if I could increase my spend a little. FYI, those stainless cooking pans hurt almost as much as the cast iron ones!
The dealer I purchased from also suggested swapping the rear tires/rims to get a wider footprint which they did. My T494 is more stable on hills than my NX50 Kioti and I don't even get close to that feeling I'm near the tipping point but then again I don't put the tractor in a position to get close.
Basic stuff for you veterans, but practical information for computer programmers heading into retirement
Emissions do but hairdryers have been around for decades and well proven so not really.I may be mistaken, but thought turbos add more complexity.
Better get yourself something with large gonads, tractive effort as well. I prefer a stump grinder myself but with a grinder the stumps have to be cut a lot lower.About 50 of these
I always wondered why they called it two-footitis. I went from a 18' to a 24' and then looked at over 30'. Two feet is just not enough for most boaters. But as you get older the downsizing starts. Now we are happy with the pontoon.
The most important aspect with any turbo charged engine is cooling the turbo down after running it hard. I idle both my Kubota's for about 2 minutes to allow the hot side of the turbo's ceramic bearings to cool off and get fresh oil. Besides, both of mine are straight piped and I love the sound of a turbocharger.Dealer said he’s had zero break-fix jobs on these turbos.
Keep in mind that if you excavate any stump, you are left with a hole that has to be backfilled. With a grinder the depression is minimal and really no backfilling plus stumps are a PITA to get rid off. They don't like to burn and are messy. I much prefer grinding them and most stump grinders will grind at least 8" below grade as well.... and, the chips from a sharp toothed grinder are very similar to a wood chipper so you can use the excess for mulch
That's why I have a dump trailer and the local landfill is free. I don't do burn piles anymore. I do still stump grind if I know a stump left underground won't be a future problem. I will also hire a local dozer guy to push over the big trees for me.Keep in mind that if you excavate any stump, you are left with a hole that has to be backfilled. With a grinder the depression is minimal and really no backfilling plus stumps are a PITA to get rid off. They don't like to burn and are messy. I much prefer grinding them and most stump grinders will grind at least 8" below grade as well.... and, the chips from a sharp toothed grinder are very similar to a wood chipper so you can use the excess for mulch
Thank you for the advice and absolutely, this has been my experience at other project locations. But, the minute contractors show for estimates and see this view, prices escalate quickly for services. It’s crazy out there, man. First world problems I know, but thus, the tractor purchase. A man quickly has to figure out what he’s willing to do and when he will pick up the phone.Hire a guy with a decent sized excavator to come in and pull them.
Price/effort/time/reward that'll win hands down IMHO.
We have a similar problem but different. When contractors see some of our circumstances they seem to want to do a little extra to help out. But we don't mind.Thank you for the advice and absolutely, this has been my experience at other project locations. But, the minute contractors show for estimates and see this view, prices escalate quickly for services. It’s crazy out there, man. First world problems I know, but thus, the tractor purchase. A man quickly has to figure out what he’s willing to do and when he will pick up the phone.
nice thing about slopes and hills,Great point… we’re right around 1,310 ft. MSL, so I think we’re good.
I am dealing with a lot of broken up shale rock embedded in soil to carve out access roads/trails in hilly (max 10-15%) sloped terrain, but mostly 5-10% slopes. So, considerable box blade and rock bucket work. I can take my time here.
Also have woods to clear and stumps to grind/backhoe out. For me, really just trying to make sure with a loaded bucket that I don’t get too underpowered to manage those slopes.