Workable Headlights

[lakngulf]

I can see that I will be using my tractor a lot at night, especially this time of the year. I have read some threads about adding work lights that are not totally blocked by the FEL. I would like to know a good "1, 2, 3, ..." process for doing that on a Kioti CK30. I am pretty sure I could do it myself but need to know what to look out for, where exactly to plug in the light wire, where best to install a switch (or have them work off existing switch).

I understand the controversy over drilling in the roll bar. Are there lights that attach with U bolts, or C Clamps? I think I would like two lights forward and one facing the 3pt attachment. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[MichiganIron]

We have a Bolt-On work light system for the CK series tractors. (2) forward and (1) rear work light, complete with switches and harnesses. You can contact us through our website, or send a PM. We would be happy to answer any questions you have.

 

[Reg]

My first reaction of course is to just ask you to ALWAYS carry the loader low enough to see over it and for your headlights to shine over it.
NEVER UNDER IT !!!
Most tractors are designed to work quite well this way, it encourages the discipline of ALWAYS CARRY LOW.

OK, since work habits wasn't what you asked about the ROPS question is probably best solved with simple bracketry and square U-bolts.

 

[ToadHill]

Reg: your suggestion makes complete sense, however Kioti buckets are designed such that if you carry them that low, they will hit every high spot on the ground between you and where ever you are going.

Even with them sitting on the ground, the headlights hit the rear of the bucket. Not the best design in the world.

 

[lakngulf]

Add to that, much of my night work could be WITH the bucket. I have used it a little bit at night, and, as I had read on this forum, the existing lights offer little help. Loading and unloading on trailer was my first night experience. In order to see, the bucket had to be higher than I wanted it to be.

 

[Reg]

Add to that, much of my night work could be WITH the bucket. I have used it a little bit at night, and, as I had read on this forum, the existing lights offer little help. Loading and unloading on trailer was my first night experience. In order to see, the bucket had to be higher than I wanted it to be.

Sorry 'bout that; I didn't know that the specific make/model has it's headlights at exactly the WRONG height.
I would probably have same/similar problems with pallet forks, IF there was a night need for me to use them (-:

Since my last post I have thought it through a bit more and if I were to add work lights to mine I would probably get square U-bolts to go OVER the top of the ROPS and a length of perforated angle iron to run between them, then hang the lights UNDER that at or close to the corners;
a) Keeps them under the ROPS so branches and other low clearance things don't decapitate them.
b) At the corners means away from my head.
c) perforated angle offers so many choices.

I would probably "cross the beams" to get a wider angle of coverage, which matters more than range at tractor speeds.

 

[Gittyup]

MI,

How long have you been offering this? I made mine, and I think I committed on here that Kioti should sell a roll bar light kit as an option. Guess you thought the same thing and took it upon yourself to create it? I probably would have bought it rather than make it, if you had this (and I knew about it) when I put mine on. Can you post a photo?

Yes the OEM headlights are almost worthless with the bucket on.

I mounted two front, one back on a piece of unistrut ubolted to the roll bar. Wired directly to the customer fuse through a marine grade toggle switch mounted on the rear of the 3ph lift lever plastic cover. Much like some others have done. The type of light you choose can make the job easier. Make sure you use lights that already have adjustable pivots. I used trapezoidal, rectangular lights that had little to no adjustment out of the box. So I had to fabricate my own pivots and weld them to the unistrut.

Buy the kit from MI. It'll save you a lot of time and trouble.

 

[malk315]

Hey MichiganIron-

Looked at your website quickly and couldn't find pictures of the work light kit.
Can you post some (the kit parts laid out on a table and installed perhaps?)

When (not if) I'm ready to add lights to my CK-20 I'll be giving you a call.
I'd much rather get a kit than make my own stuff.

I'm planning on adding a rear snowblower now that my driveway is 2.5 times longer than my old house and a couple rear lights plus a front light would be really handy on those nights of snow blowing etc...

Thanks.

 

[MichiganIron]

We appologize for not having pictures. The idea for the worklight kit came from a TBN Member. We have been doing them for customers on a "by request" basis, the good TBN'er suggested we put it together in a kit and offer it for others to install.

We now do offer as a kit, depending on the tractor model. Kits are made up by order. The price is the same for any model. Kits are complete with light bar, lights (2 forward/1 rear), harnesses and switches.

 

[PA hayseed]

Michigan iron -

My last attempt at lights did not go so well, I couldn't figure out the grounding problem became agitated and smashed em. They were el cheapos, so no real meaningful loss. Are the lights movable, and how much for shipping (PA)? Do they come with instructions for the easily annoyed by minor problems?

 

[coobie]

Michigan Iron installed my front and rear work lights on my 2008 Kioti DK40se and I could not be happier,they work great.I can finally see.coobie.

 

[JoelD]

Another thought, you can never have too much light, provided alternator can hadle it and I don't expect that to be a problem.

I've got two front on ROPS and two back on ROPS and two headlights.

I'll probably add a couple more pointing front on ROPS as I could still use a little more light.

Joel

 

[contdevelop]

I read somewhere on here that Kioti wired the tractor for aux lights and there are pigtails at the rear of the tractor. I found the wires and tested them, they have no power. Does anyone know what else I need to do? I didnt trace the wires to see where they end. I am thinking maybe the wires are just installed and I need to install a switch and run the wire to the fuse box? Did kioti leave spare fuses to tie into? Has anyone else used the factory wiring to mount lights?

 

[DK35vince]

I read somewhere on here that Kioti wired the tractor for aux lights and there are pigtails at the rear of the tractor. I found the wires and tested them, they have no power. Does anyone know what else I need to do?

The pigtail on my DK 35 has power when the headlight switch is turned on.
Thats where I get the power for some of my lights.
Don't know about the CK's.

 

[Gittyup]

There are a number of posts that show photos and give explanations for the various connectors on the rear of a CK. Search for them, I'm sure you'll find them. Many require the ignition be on. Some are tied to reverse. Others maybe to the headlight switch.

In the fuse box under the right side of the dash cowling the last fuse is labelled something like " customer use". I used a voltmeter to determine which side was fused and which was hot all the time. Then I simply spliced into the fused side. It must go to a connector somewhere. But, it was just as easy to simply tie in at the fuse panel.

Save yourself the trouble and buy the kit from MichiganIron.

 

[VictorW]

One of the open pigtail wires that I used for a rear light on my CK30hst doesn't have power unless the key is on. I don't believe you'll have a hot wire without the key or headlights on. Some models have a hookup for trailer lights which is required in some states after dark.

 

[Gil Case]

On my CK20 the wire harness went live with the key on so I put a back light on that with toggle switch taped on the ROPS.
Wish I had known of MIE's kit as well. We need to get after him to finish his web site and save us some work.

 

[jimmyj]

I did not know of the kit either. I just last month bought 2 halogen work lights to put under the rops. I get the whole do not drill thing, but 2 tiny holes, one on each side? Can't be that bad.

Anyhow, I got a swivel mount bracket and hope I can put them on such that I can aim them where I want, fwd or back.

I'll take pics when I do the project, hopefully this weekend.

If there is a way to install them without drilling, of course I will pick that.

 

[Gil Case]

I am a big believer in not drilling any holes in the ROPS, so I put one light under the top of the ROPS with a square clamp and just ran the wires up the inside of the ROPS and taped them every few inches. Not all that ugly if you ask me, my wife, however, thinks otherwise.

 

[jimmyj]

Not all that ugly if you ask me, my wife, however, thinks otherwise.

Maybe she could get you color matching duct tape for the rops!