Work lights on 7610

[53gravely]

I searched TBN for a work light solution for my 7610....not being equipped for metal fabrication and wanting a NO DRILL solution I scratched my head for a while. I added (2) 55 watt lights to the existing FOPS holes and snaked the wire down inside the rollbar. I have to fold the FOPS to get in the garage....witness the lack of top door stop on the head jamb of the garage door..."people on gin should not be driving tractors"..oops
I also added (1) 55w rear light for back-up and implement attachment in the dark.
NOTE that there is a 15 or 20 amp "WORK LIGHT" circut on 7610s w/ the standard alternator. Correct me if I'm wrong 'cause when it comes to electrical, I'm "a couple sandwiches short of a picnic". ( combined 165 watts divided by 12 volts=13.75 amps)...oh heck, it ain't blown up yet.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
On the right rear fender there is a pre-drilled hole for a rear light and a dead headed wire with a bayonet connector from the work light circut (red/green stripe or maybe vice versa)RIGHT THERE by the hole....the little tag end on a typical $10 work light just needs a connector and presto! (Hey, Newt-them japaneese fellers dun thought of everythin'!)

I chose to leave the rear light so it comes on with the ignition and the rollbar lights are switched with a marine switch I had laying around from tricking out an old Boston Whaler. If you operate at night in June you'll understand why you want to turn them off....I'm still picking bug from my teeth.

 

[53gravely]

Here's the attachment of the light to the roll bar note that you'll have to grind/cut off the excess bolt to facilitate closeing the roll bar.... have the nut ON when you cut the bolt--when you back it off after cutting it will fix the buggared threads.
Don't worry--the FOPS won't pinch the wire-- the two sections of tube don't actually touch, thus no pinch point for the wire.

 

[53gravely]

Here's the rear light. all you need is a $10 light, a bayonet connector, crimper and a wrench to adjust the light.

PS....ain't my girls cute???? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[53gravely]

Chain storage?

Note in the first photo that a chain holder came standard on my tractor!!!....actually got lucky...the tow chain my father carried in the back of the old station wagon for thirty years when the family went skiing was just the right length. I'd suggest that you buy bulk chain two feet longer than you need and loose ends. Put on one end and start wrapping...then adjust by cutting the other end and attach the other end.

Tool box- the redneck in me opted for the ammo can route. I removed the SMV Emblem and clip and bolted the can to the bracket...it felxes back and forth too much for my taste...far from perfect. My one complaint on these litte tractors is the pathetic lack of tool box space...at the very least you need to carry fencing pliers a set of rachets, wrenches, gloves vice grips channel locks....that little pis#$nt plastic excuse for a tool box under the seat is just useless /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Oh.. Ok.. that expalins it. i was wondering what you were talking about in ref to your roll bar.. folding etc... I was expection to see a tractor more like this!
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy

 

[53gravely]

No, no... that's a REAL tractor....I was talking about my little 1/3 scale TOY tractor /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Soundguy]

They are all real tractors.. even my little 9 and 10 hp Allis G and IH cub.... even though most riding lawnmowers have more (2x) hp these days /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Soundguy