Woodsplitter build #2

[GE222]

I have enjoyed all of the dialog and pictures on your splitter. Every thing looks great so far, with one exception.

I am wondering about the cylinder mounting block, specifically the seemingly small bolts attacing it to the frame. They look to be around 1/2" to 5/8".

 

[6sunset6]

I have enjoyed all of the dialog and pictures on your splitter. Every thing looks great so far, with one exception.

I am wondering about the cylinder mounting block, specifically the seemingly small bolts attacing it to the frame. They look to be around 1/2" to 5/8".

I assume you mean the bolts holding the anchor for the big splitter cylinder.
There are 8 1/2 bolts , nuts and washers all grade nine. 180,000 psi minimum tension. The stress area of the bolt is .141 in sq. That's 25000 #.
Times 8 200,000# use a saftey factor of 4 50,000# load capacity. 25t
The 4.5 " cylinder at 2000 psi is about 15t All should work. I think

If you mean the mounts for the log lifter also 1/2 but a tremendous amount of friction in that joint, I did not even bother with calculations.

 

[6sunset6]

February 7, 2012 3pm Construction complete. Mostly. Maybe in the spring I will paint the outfeed table and make a bracket to take strain off the filter.
And fix what ever lets go.
Another day or two take it outside and run it. Probably even split something. I certainly have enough big rounds around.
I started this on 11/16. That's the day I picked up the beam. 12 weeks and 1 day. I probably worked on it 4 days a week 4 hrs a day. Lets see 4 x 12 x 4
192 hrs plus today. 195 hours. Or more. What else would I do in the winter.
Couple more posts and maybe a movie.

Forgot one thing Have to add a pocket for my Hookaroon.

 

[6sunset6]

I split wood today. Good news and bad news.
Good news first. Motor works fine luke warm at most. Log lifter works fine after I tightened 2 hose fittings I forgot about. You can imagine the bummer around that little mistake. Ram works fine. IT SPLITS
Bad news. Some easy to fix. Like loose fittings. Other than that no leaks.
First picture The first nut on the sled hit the weldment that holds the log retainer. By a 1/16. Ripped them both off. The fix is easy . Trim some off and reweld.
Rest of the pictures are self explaining. The pile on the table is from 2 22" rounds. I thought 4 x 4 would be too small but they look good. Those rounds are from an oak that came down 2 years ago. Cut it off the stump a year ago, hauled it out and cut it up last fall. They are still full of water.
Now the really bad news. The first pass splits perfect. Second pass, too much friction in the boxes and the cylinder pressure goes over 2000psi relief. Ram stalls. It took me a little while bit I finally figured out a pusher block, 2 x 4, and push it through each box section to clear the boxes. Then pull the round back . I am going to raise the pressure and see what happens. I already noticed that the detent pressure relief will stop the ram before the main relief is reached. IF you hold the handle down you can bypass the detent relief. But that defeats the purpose. Anyway I can split rounds into 4 inch square firewood with out lifting the rounds in. IT 's not perfect but it splits faster than I used to be able to do . And not lifting those rounds is a big deal. I have a movie of the lifter lets see if I can get it here.
Not great but I had the camera in my left hand and a valve handle in my right hand.MVI_0201.MOV - YouTube

 

[6sunset6]

I forgot to add. Those rounds came out af an oak that came down 2 years ago.
I cut it off the stump last spring. Hauled it out last fall and cut it into rounds 2 months ago. It is still full of water. The box squeezes it out. I guess it wants to get cut into rounds sooner.

 

[jimmysisson]

Geez, I thought you had enough splay in the boxes to keep the friction down. Do you think it's from pieces opening up once they're in the boxes? Could you cut off the top and reweld with a bit more uptilt on the outfeed side, to be sure it's not the top that's too tight? I hate to see this be the problem you have.
Jim

 

[6sunset6]

I am not sure yet, but I think you are right , it is the height. I need to get someone to run it while I look from the end. I noticed that when I push then thru with a 2 x4 It only takes about 6" and they are free. I also noticed at 2000 psi , where the relief is now, the beam flexes a little bit around the box end, I think. If increasing the pressure works then I think I need to add a stiffener to the bottom of the beam. Probably a tapered plate on edge.

 

[Scooby074]

FYI, the Timberwolf TW7 (box wedge) runs a 5" cylinder with a split force of 28 Tons. It seems to take a lot of force to use a box wedge, particularly on the second split of a round, as evidenced by the video below.

Log Splitters | Firewood Processors | Conveyors | Timberwolf Wood Processing Equipment

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_izTNJQUaok]2/3 Splitting White Oak Firewood With Timberwolf TW7 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[6sunset6]

Hmm for 28 tons on a 5" cylinder 2800 psi.
I am going to try 2450 . If I want more I have to raise the PV on the pump unit.
The cylinder is rated 3000 so I guess I could go there. The motor is pretty cool. Looks like an intermittent high load won'r hurt it. I hope.
AT 3000 psi the 4.5 cylinder is just shy of 24t. Well I see where it all goes.
IF I have to use a push block that ok .

 

[6sunset6]

Further thought. I think the jam in the box is caused by the thickness of the vertical members. they are .75 thick and even though they are angled out the wood has to compress by .75 as it passes through the opening. Then it expands sideways. A higher box won't help this. More force or thinner vertical members.
More force first. If I need thinner vertical members It might be easier to just build a new box. I would have to use a torch to cut out all the welds. I am not even sure I could reach the middle with a right angle head on a cutting torch.
Anybody ever seen a cutting torch with a straight head? Well That's for later.
Pressure increase for today.

 

[Scooby074]

Further thought. I think the jam in the box is caused by the thickness of the vertical members. they are .75 thick and even though they are angled out the wood has to compress by .75 as it passes through the opening. Then it expands sideways. A higher box won't help this. More force or thinner vertical members.
More force first. If I need thinner vertical members It might be easier to just build a new box. I would have to use a torch to cut out all the welds. I am not even sure I could reach the middle with a right angle head on a cutting torch.
Anybody ever seen a cutting torch with a straight head? Well That's for later.
Pressure increase for today.

How big is your welder?

If necessary, if your welder is big enough, you can crank it up and use it like a crude gouger with some 6010 or 6011's. Not pretty but it could get you out of a jam.

Yes you can get torches with a straight head, but it wont be cheap.

 

[6sunset6]

Ahh Don't have to worry about cutting out the welds on the box. I did not even have to raise the pressure. 2000 psi did it Got stuck on a knot while I was deciding how high to raise the pressure. The top weld on one end plate tore out and I decided to have the machine help. Pushed one more piece throu and the rest tore out on the top. The two center plates tore out and a wiggle broke them loose. So now I don't have to worry about how to take it apart. The good news is everything else held. One thing I learned is to have all steel parts clear anything that moves no matter what. Like when the log lifter is up and the ram comes forward , nothing should interfere between the two in any position. Right now the sled will hit part of the log lift if I forget to lower it. Ask me how I know. What I have to do is figure out how the put the box back together . It may not be possible but it sure makes nice fire wood. While it is apart I think I will make another base plate for a Tee wedge in case thats the only way to go.

Looking at the pictures I am thinking maybe just two verticals, let the outside run big. Would be 4" high and wider.

 

[Scooby074]

Well, thats one problem solved :thumbsup:

I noticed on your welds.. you had no penetration. No bevel and not enough heat.

You need to bevel them right back before welding and crank up the heat. Try and aim to get most of your heat into the horiz plate. Theyre pretty thick. Try something like a 6010 for your root.

 

[6sunset6]

I did not bevel the verticals. I thought there would be enough section through the fillet. I guess not. I think I am going to put it back together ????? can't decide. Either 2 verticals or a skinny center vertical and the the ones I have one on either side. Skinny would be 3/8 I guess . I need to think about this for a bit.
I have a Lincoln tombstone 225A AC only I used 5/32 6011 for the root welds at 145A. The guys in the welding forum said I should bring it someplace to get it welded. Another guy suggested slotting the top and bottom plates and welding from the outside to eliminate binding on the welds in the corners. The slots are interesting. I would have to make new vertical plates . It's a thought.

 

[Scooby074]

I wouldnt go slotting or making anything up. You should be able to get your rod in there and get a good bead. Even if you got to bend or use stub rods. Personally, I like the Burnard Short Stub holders. you can get them into some pretty tight places.

A bevel is a must. With the proper bevel i dont believe you'll have any further issues. You really got to drive the rod into the plate and let it fill the bevel, otherwise your just on the surface.

Id probably run 6011 3/32 rod at about 90A. Then cap it with 1/8 7018 at about 130 on my DC Thunderbolt. 7018 on AC though can be a pain.

 

[6sunset6]

I got it all apart and cleaned up. Beveled the verticals. I think I am going to put only 2 verticals back in , 5" apart at the start ,tapering out to 7" at the back. Leaving 4" high at the start, still 18" wide. The 4.5 cylinder could not push 3 full boxes out and a knot killed it. I set the pump bypass at 2800 psi. That was all I could get out of it in preparation for raising the pressure at the beam to something higher than 2000 psi. But watching everything at 2000 psi is scary enough.
I am going to leave it at 2000 and reduce the load by going to 1 box.
I probably will not get back to this till next week. The thing is outside now and the weather forecast is sloppy and cold. I could unbolt the base and bring it in but then I have nothing to clamp it to.

 

[GE222]

Instead of going to only one box, I would suggest two boxes. The taper your planning for the boxes sounds like the ticket to hopefully eliminate binding.

I believe a lot of folks are keeping a close eye on your progress for their own future splitter1 :thumbsup:

 

[jimmysisson]

If the splay in your verticals is greater than the thickness of the verticals, you won't get binding there unless the split expands after it leaves the cutting portion of the vertical. That's quite possible. I would guess if you double the thickness to get the splay (1" splay on 1/2" steel) it should be safe. I'd also tip the top piece up a similar amount. We've all seen wood "expand" as the stresses try to even out when a split changes the internal pressure dynamics of the log. It would be too bad to give up on the speed you get from multiple simultaneous splits. Sounds like tweaking is worth while.
Jim

 

[6sunset6]

I tacked 2 verticals in place this morning to the bottom plate but after reading the previous two comments I am going to rip it out. The vertical are 3/4 thick and they were all tapered originally out more than the thickness. The bottom plate also drops away, 1" in 12" . The top plate is level. The splits expanded quite a bit.
I just measured some A lot of 4" in one axis and 4.75-5 on the other axis.
The opening was 4 x 4. I don't know for sure which was horizontal and which was vertical. I think the 4" was vertical. I know the splits had to go about 5" before they were loose . Anyway I think what I am going to do is put in a center wedge thinner, maybe 3/8 and then the two 3/4 ones outboard . That will reduce the compression on the boxes. 2 boxes would be better than 1.
I also fixed the log lifter so that if it is up the sled won't hit it. My welds can't all be bad. When the ram hit the lifter two 1/2 plates bent but the welds held. They also held when I jacked them straight. I have an oxy acetylene torch but I don't like to use it unless I really have to. Gas is expensive.


.

 

[GE222]

Assuming you go with two boxes, three verticals, I was also wondering about the bevel on the outer two pieces. I don't recall if yours are double bevel cutting edge, or single bevel. Single would seem to be the logical choice for the two outside ones, with the bevel on the outside. Then a double bevel edge on the middle one.