Wood burning shop heater

[jmolwitz]

You can add a flat piece of sheetmetal as a heat shield .

 

[crash325]

Would someone please suggest a way to insulate the wood behind the stove...
See previous post. Thanks

1/2" Cement board works real well. If you use metal it needs to stand off at least 1/2".

Cement board that has been tiled looks real nice and very safe.

 

[Zick]

How about screwing some Durock to the studs?

Edit: nm, didn't see the 2nd page and crash325 beat me to it.

 

[grsthegreat]

With the cost of the insulated pipe these days, I'd look at building a masonary chimney. Insulated pipe needs to be replaced every so often, 10 or 15 years I think...

Ive never heard about needing to replace double or tripple wall pipe. My double wall is 16 yo and i clean it every year. It still looks like its brand new...

 

[Jimbo16720]

Would someone please suggest a way to insulate the wood behind the stove...
See previous post. Thanks

Buy some backerboard...it's like a cement board for cementing tile to walls and floors. You can put your hand on the back and it doesn't get warm. It's 1/4" thick. I have it behind my stove in the house on a paneled wall. It's been there 13yrs now.:thumbsup:

 

[Boeing]

Thanks for the suggestions guys...
I bought some cement board to back the shower walls and propped it behind the stove since it has not been used yet. It's VERY heavy and because of that it would not be easy to attach to the studs going up 10'. I like the thinner "backerboard" idea because it has to be lighter.
Now I must admit....what is backerboard? Is it masonite that you put under vinyl or tile floors? and semi fireproof? I guess I could glue tile over it....?
I have to remind myself that this is a shop and not a home.....

 

[ovrszd]

Would someone please suggest a way to insulate the wood behind the stove...
See previous post. Thanks

Tin, spaced away from the wooden wall at least a couple inches. Leave a gap at the bottom from the floor, 3 or 4 inches at least. What you are trying to stop is radiant heat. The tin will absorb the heat and the natural movement of heated air behind the tin will draw cool air from the floor and cool the wall.

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Ditto on ovrszd's post.....

 

[karverind]

Could you use a concrete board like they put tile on in a bathroom?

 

[chopped]

Easy space out ,you can use long drywall screws and cut some scrap metal conduit shims
works well...

 

[ovrszd]

Easy space out ,you can use long drywall screws and cut some scrap metal conduit shims
works well...

Yep, that's what I used.

Forgot to mention, you also want an air gap at the top to allow the heated air to move upward and away from the "hot spot".

 

[9fingers]

Im kinda needing some ideas for a wood burning heater. not realy trying to heat up the whole shop. just a place to warm my rearend while Im thinking about what toy to play with next. jb

I've used a double barrel 35 gal stove since 1972. I used bed rail to make the 4 legs. Just tack welded them to the end rims of both barrels. I don't recommend the support legs offered in the kits. if you get a lot of hot coals, the barrel sides can sag. Also, place the stove pipe collars on the ends of the barrels. This allows for cleaning the top barrel of creosote with an old hoe shaped to match the curvature of the barrel. inlet on the bottom edge of the top barrel, exit near the top. Drill all collars for self tapping screws to lock the stove pipe in place. I originally installed a damper but found this was not necessary. I doubled the end wall below the door as this is the hottest place and metal fatigue can set in here. Be sure to clean all ashes out after the heating season. I found a smaller, hotter fire cuts down on creosote as well as dry quality firewood.

 

[rich_ncal]

"Cement board with a gap sounds good. My house has a fake brick panel with a 1" air gap behind the false brick. This is similar to fire resistant cement board.

Someone wrote the triple wall pipe never goes bad. The stainless steel rain cap for my stove went bad in about 8 years and had to be replaced. The inner section the mates with the inner pipe was completed corroded away. The guy at the stove shop was surprised and also thought these should never need to be replaced.

Looking at the exterior of the first section below the rain cap I see rust and pitting in that section or the outside of the exterior pipe. I sanded this and used some rust converter before re-painting it. I can see that section will also need to be replaced in the future.

 

[Baby Grand]

Would someone please suggest a way to insulate the wood behind the stove...
See previous post. Thanks

When I worked at a lumber supply place in the 70's we sold hundreds of sheets of asbestos board for just that purpose. One of the builders told me he prefered it to sheet metal as it cut much easier with a Skillsaw. He was a 3 pack a day man, if I remember right.