Will a DISK do me what I need??
- Thread starter Sully2
- Start date
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Sully, try a boxblade with the scarifiers all the way down. )</font>
I agree. I'm currently doing that myself in very hard clay soil. I considered a disk too, but eventually figured that it would not penetrate sufficiently even with weight and a 45hp tractor.
I've been very successful with the box blade. I'm guessing but I'd say I'm getting a good 4-5" of penetration and it turns the soil fairly well too. The nice thing about the box blade is that it has so many other uses as well. So, more bang for the buck.
Several observations:
1) It sounds like your tractor may be too small for the job you have set for it.
2) The moisture in the soil makes a big difference, at least where I am. When really dry it is very much like concrete. When too wet it is sticky and goo-y. When just right, the BB turns it over quite easily.
3) If you are really interested in a disc, get one. If it doesn't work, sell it. You can probably get most of your money back.
Finally, it is my understanding that a disc is primarily for breaking up soil that has been plowed or turned over and not for breaking up 'virigin' dirt. Is that correct? )</font></font>
1) Well..yes and no! Anything SMALLER I couldnt get rid of the trees ..etc..that I have even so far. Anything LARGER Id never get in between trees that will stay! If it was just all open ground..I have 1/2 dozen guys that could chisel plow and rototill it in less than 1/2 hour.....LOL..but the one guy's SMALLEST set of disks is about 20 feet wide!!!.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..needless to say..he's never get turned around in the yard.
2)BINGO! Thats why "I" need the "right" piece of equipment HERE at "my" disposal. About the time the soil would be "easiest" to work over..the guys have planting to do..equipment maintaince to get done..etc..all that farm stuff...and just cant ( and I wouldnt ask them to) drop what they're doing.
3) Your right! If I buy it and it just flat dont work..and if people arent willing to give me a decent price for it used..I can afford to just park it under cover and let it sit..forever if need be. What Im trying to avoid is a BUNCH of "useless" impliments parked under cover...LOL
I agree. I'm currently doing that myself in very hard clay soil. I considered a disk too, but eventually figured that it would not penetrate sufficiently even with weight and a 45hp tractor.
I've been very successful with the box blade. I'm guessing but I'd say I'm getting a good 4-5" of penetration and it turns the soil fairly well too. The nice thing about the box blade is that it has so many other uses as well. So, more bang for the buck.
Several observations:
1) It sounds like your tractor may be too small for the job you have set for it.
2) The moisture in the soil makes a big difference, at least where I am. When really dry it is very much like concrete. When too wet it is sticky and goo-y. When just right, the BB turns it over quite easily.
3) If you are really interested in a disc, get one. If it doesn't work, sell it. You can probably get most of your money back.
Finally, it is my understanding that a disc is primarily for breaking up soil that has been plowed or turned over and not for breaking up 'virigin' dirt. Is that correct? )</font></font>
1) Well..yes and no! Anything SMALLER I couldnt get rid of the trees ..etc..that I have even so far. Anything LARGER Id never get in between trees that will stay! If it was just all open ground..I have 1/2 dozen guys that could chisel plow and rototill it in less than 1/2 hour.....LOL..but the one guy's SMALLEST set of disks is about 20 feet wide!!!.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..needless to say..he's never get turned around in the yard.
2)BINGO! Thats why "I" need the "right" piece of equipment HERE at "my" disposal. About the time the soil would be "easiest" to work over..the guys have planting to do..equipment maintaince to get done..etc..all that farm stuff...and just cant ( and I wouldnt ask them to) drop what they're doing.
3) Your right! If I buy it and it just flat dont work..and if people arent willing to give me a decent price for it used..I can afford to just park it under cover and let it sit..forever if need be. What Im trying to avoid is a BUNCH of "useless" impliments parked under cover...LOL
Highbeam
Super Member
"try a boxblade with the scarifiers all the way down"
I did this for about 10 hours on Sunday in a clay lowland. It worked exceptionally well, even in the overly moist areas. I had a one year old growth of grass on it and the rippers sliced and tilled the vegetation evenly incorporating it 4-5" deep. I am now letting it dry before going back and finish grading it with the same bob blade and then seeding it, to be followed of course by a schmearing using the front of the rear blade on the BB.
A poor mans chisel plow indeed. Plus harrow, grader, leveler, etc.
I did this for about 10 hours on Sunday in a clay lowland. It worked exceptionally well, even in the overly moist areas. I had a one year old growth of grass on it and the rippers sliced and tilled the vegetation evenly incorporating it 4-5" deep. I am now letting it dry before going back and finish grading it with the same bob blade and then seeding it, to be followed of course by a schmearing using the front of the rear blade on the BB.
A poor mans chisel plow indeed. Plus harrow, grader, leveler, etc.
LOL..I thank all you guys for the help..but I think SOME never grasp my ..Im sure..poorly phrased question in the beginning. I wished to know about any sort of DIFFERENCE there MIGHT be about attempting to break up "hard"..??..soil bettwen a set of discs...OR...OR attempting to use a roto tiller right off the bat.
No "dynamite blasting"..or "Cat D9 " digging..etc..etc..etc... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif...but some of ya gave me some good pointers and items to ponder over.. Much appreciated.
Sully out!
No "dynamite blasting"..or "Cat D9 " digging..etc..etc..etc... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif...but some of ya gave me some good pointers and items to ponder over.. Much appreciated.
Sully out!
Wannafish
Gold Member
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- 4010 JD Cut, 4020 JD, shovels, rakes, and implements of destruction
"...I wished to know about any sort of DIFFERENCE there MIGHT be about attempting to break up "hard"..??..soil bettwen a set of discs..."
And as stated numerous times in reply - if a tiller won't break it up, neither will a disc - you need a subsoiler...therefore there is no difference between the tiller and the disc.
I have a 14' offset disc and a 21' Rock-Flex disc. Even with all their weight, all they will do is roll across that hard stuff.
And as stated numerous times in reply - if a tiller won't break it up, neither will a disc - you need a subsoiler...therefore there is no difference between the tiller and the disc.
I have a 14' offset disc and a 21' Rock-Flex disc. Even with all their weight, all they will do is roll across that hard stuff.
willywildes
Silver Member
I mow first. to keep the grass from plugging up the scarifiers on the box blade, making them ineffective. box blade with scarifiers down. then till works like a champ.
Good luck. WW
Good luck. WW
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( I mow first. to keep the grass from plugging up the scarifiers on the box blade, making them ineffective. box blade with scarifiers down. then till works like a champ.
Good luck. WW )</font>
Sounds like what would work BEST is a "small" chisel plow...but Ive never seen or even heard of one as small as I'd need...so a small box blade sounds like the plan then. SMALL..because I have to work about existing trees...SMALL because of TRACTION. I have the industrial tires on the B3030..( and NO fellas..Im NOT going to install AG tires for added traction..lol)...so if Id go TOO large ( whatever too large is?) Id lose traction...bummer!
Set it to go just a few inches deep..and make repeat passes in both directions...and THEN the box blade would always come in handy for the slight amount of dirt Id need to "re-locate" to make it "more level"..sort of thing.
I had one of my farmer buddies ( he and his family only farm about 7000 acres around here) come and look at the yard..and told him I had been advised to use the sub soiler on it..at about 4 inches deep. I had to get him a cold beer to shut up his laughing!! He told me I dont have enough $$ for diesel fuel to be making 6 inch passes back and forth to break it up next spring...lol I let him laugh though..after all I do use his 3point post hole auger for free... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Good luck. WW )</font>
Sounds like what would work BEST is a "small" chisel plow...but Ive never seen or even heard of one as small as I'd need...so a small box blade sounds like the plan then. SMALL..because I have to work about existing trees...SMALL because of TRACTION. I have the industrial tires on the B3030..( and NO fellas..Im NOT going to install AG tires for added traction..lol)...so if Id go TOO large ( whatever too large is?) Id lose traction...bummer!
Set it to go just a few inches deep..and make repeat passes in both directions...and THEN the box blade would always come in handy for the slight amount of dirt Id need to "re-locate" to make it "more level"..sort of thing.
I had one of my farmer buddies ( he and his family only farm about 7000 acres around here) come and look at the yard..and told him I had been advised to use the sub soiler on it..at about 4 inches deep. I had to get him a cold beer to shut up his laughing!! He told me I dont have enough $$ for diesel fuel to be making 6 inch passes back and forth to break it up next spring...lol I let him laugh though..after all I do use his 3point post hole auger for free... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Sully,
I'm gonna disagree with everybody here. My soil is red clay and can be very hard. I brought a John Deere 450G dozer out here and couldn't break through it to dig a hole. My neighbor hired a guy with a Cat D4 who has to use his rippers to break throught the surface.
I have a 35 hp Century tractor that I bought a used 5 foot disk for $300 out of the local classified ads. It has the cerated disks in front and the smooth ones in back.
Years ago a friend in California had a similar set up and we went through **** figuring out how to work it. Adding weight didn't really help that much, but what did work was to stick with it.
My setup isn't very big or heavy. Before I use the disk, I cut the grass and brush down real low. Then my first few passes accomplished almost nothing. Especially going through the thicker areas of grass.
I plan out a path to take that's a large circle and just keep driving around on the exact same tracks over and over again. It's like a huge waste of time until it happens. All of a sudden the ground gives and it turns to powder!!!
Once this happens, I just move my tires over half way to new soil and keep making my newly plowed area larger. This goes allot faster over the new areas than it did on the first area.
I don't add any weight to my disk, but can see where it could help and probably will the next time I use it. I have quite a few five galong buckets lying around that I'll fill with dirt and put on the disk to accomplish this.
I also have a 6ft boxblade with shanks and tried that too for breaking up the ground. It works to a degree, but all you get is chunks of dirt, not fine powder. The disk does an amazing job with time.
You said you had time, it will work and work well. Just realize it will take a very long time until happens, but the results are amazing!!!
Eddie
I'm gonna disagree with everybody here. My soil is red clay and can be very hard. I brought a John Deere 450G dozer out here and couldn't break through it to dig a hole. My neighbor hired a guy with a Cat D4 who has to use his rippers to break throught the surface.
I have a 35 hp Century tractor that I bought a used 5 foot disk for $300 out of the local classified ads. It has the cerated disks in front and the smooth ones in back.
Years ago a friend in California had a similar set up and we went through **** figuring out how to work it. Adding weight didn't really help that much, but what did work was to stick with it.
My setup isn't very big or heavy. Before I use the disk, I cut the grass and brush down real low. Then my first few passes accomplished almost nothing. Especially going through the thicker areas of grass.
I plan out a path to take that's a large circle and just keep driving around on the exact same tracks over and over again. It's like a huge waste of time until it happens. All of a sudden the ground gives and it turns to powder!!!
Once this happens, I just move my tires over half way to new soil and keep making my newly plowed area larger. This goes allot faster over the new areas than it did on the first area.
I don't add any weight to my disk, but can see where it could help and probably will the next time I use it. I have quite a few five galong buckets lying around that I'll fill with dirt and put on the disk to accomplish this.
I also have a 6ft boxblade with shanks and tried that too for breaking up the ground. It works to a degree, but all you get is chunks of dirt, not fine powder. The disk does an amazing job with time.
You said you had time, it will work and work well. Just realize it will take a very long time until happens, but the results are amazing!!!
Eddie
Eddie: That is EXACTLY what my farmer friends have told me..almost word for word.. With the possible exception of adding weight for the "curst cutting"...first go-round sort of thing. Because I have limited "impliments" and am too tight... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif..to go out and drop 2-3K on a variety of hardware that I MAY use only one time in my life...I have been searching for the "right tool".
They also told me that THEY dont do it "thatta way" because of TIME FACTOR. They dont want to spend all day "discing" a field..when one guy goes thru with a chisel plow and the next operator is "right behind him" ( dry conditions of course) with one of those "200 ft wide set of disks" breaking it up into fine "powder".
SIDE NOTE" I ask the farmer the other day if I could use his "seeder/planter" next year for sowing grass seed... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
He got the giggles because its so wide he cant even bring it down the road I live on..let alone in my drive and into the front yard...lol. He gave me the old.."I dont think so"..
I appreciate the input Eddie.
They also told me that THEY dont do it "thatta way" because of TIME FACTOR. They dont want to spend all day "discing" a field..when one guy goes thru with a chisel plow and the next operator is "right behind him" ( dry conditions of course) with one of those "200 ft wide set of disks" breaking it up into fine "powder".
SIDE NOTE" I ask the farmer the other day if I could use his "seeder/planter" next year for sowing grass seed... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
He got the giggles because its so wide he cant even bring it down the road I live on..let alone in my drive and into the front yard...lol. He gave me the old.."I dont think so"..
I appreciate the input Eddie.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sully,
I'm gonna disagree with everybody here. My soil is red clay and can be very hard. I brought a John Deere 450G dozer out here and couldn't break through it to dig a hole. My neighbor hired a guy with a Cat D4 who has to use his rippers to break throught the surface.
I have a 35 hp Century tractor that I bought a used 5 foot disk for $300 out of the local classified ads. It has the cerated disks in front and the smooth ones in back.
Years ago a friend in California had a similar set up and we went through **** figuring out how to work it. Adding weight didn't really help that much, but what did work was to stick with it.
My setup isn't very big or heavy. Before I use the disk, I cut the grass and brush down real low. Then my first few passes accomplished almost nothing. Especially going through the thicker areas of grass.
I plan out a path to take that's a large circle and just keep driving around on the exact same tracks over and over again. It's like a huge waste of time until it happens. All of a sudden the ground gives and it turns to powder!!!
Once this happens, I just move my tires over half way to new soil and keep making my newly plowed area larger. This goes allot faster over the new areas than it did on the first area.
I don't add any weight to my disk, but can see where it could help and probably will the next time I use it. I have quite a few five galong buckets lying around that I'll fill with dirt and put on the disk to accomplish this.
I also have a 6ft boxblade with shanks and tried that too for breaking up the ground. It works to a degree, but all you get is chunks of dirt, not fine powder. The disk does an amazing job with time.
You said you had time, it will work and work well. Just realize it will take a very long time until happens, but the results are amazing!!!
Eddie
)</font>
Right, I kinda/sorta think I understand why/how this works.
On a turn MOST of the force (not weight) gets put on only a couple of disks and I think it is the rear ones on the outside of the curve. I'm certain about it being the rear, uncertain about it being the outside set. Once you get those couple of disks to CUT through - you're going - and it might well take a few circles over the same ground. Then move along like the machine at the ice rink (Zambozzi ? Some name like that) lapping your circles. When you've cut up the whole area like this you can run rows up and down - and across if you want.
I think it is SIDE FORCE that does it and I think you can't get enough of it with weight and angle, the curve is what concentrates it. Well, if you took off all the disks except 2 - Maybe (-:
I'm gonna disagree with everybody here. My soil is red clay and can be very hard. I brought a John Deere 450G dozer out here and couldn't break through it to dig a hole. My neighbor hired a guy with a Cat D4 who has to use his rippers to break throught the surface.
I have a 35 hp Century tractor that I bought a used 5 foot disk for $300 out of the local classified ads. It has the cerated disks in front and the smooth ones in back.
Years ago a friend in California had a similar set up and we went through **** figuring out how to work it. Adding weight didn't really help that much, but what did work was to stick with it.
My setup isn't very big or heavy. Before I use the disk, I cut the grass and brush down real low. Then my first few passes accomplished almost nothing. Especially going through the thicker areas of grass.
I plan out a path to take that's a large circle and just keep driving around on the exact same tracks over and over again. It's like a huge waste of time until it happens. All of a sudden the ground gives and it turns to powder!!!
Once this happens, I just move my tires over half way to new soil and keep making my newly plowed area larger. This goes allot faster over the new areas than it did on the first area.
I don't add any weight to my disk, but can see where it could help and probably will the next time I use it. I have quite a few five galong buckets lying around that I'll fill with dirt and put on the disk to accomplish this.
I also have a 6ft boxblade with shanks and tried that too for breaking up the ground. It works to a degree, but all you get is chunks of dirt, not fine powder. The disk does an amazing job with time.
You said you had time, it will work and work well. Just realize it will take a very long time until happens, but the results are amazing!!!
Eddie
)</font>
Right, I kinda/sorta think I understand why/how this works.
On a turn MOST of the force (not weight) gets put on only a couple of disks and I think it is the rear ones on the outside of the curve. I'm certain about it being the rear, uncertain about it being the outside set. Once you get those couple of disks to CUT through - you're going - and it might well take a few circles over the same ground. Then move along like the machine at the ice rink (Zambozzi ? Some name like that) lapping your circles. When you've cut up the whole area like this you can run rows up and down - and across if you want.
I think it is SIDE FORCE that does it and I think you can't get enough of it with weight and angle, the curve is what concentrates it. Well, if you took off all the disks except 2 - Maybe (-:
Highbeam
Super Member
On the box blade, you don't need to use all of the rippers. You can take some out to make ripping easier. Yes, you will get chunks but the chunks can be ground up with a tiller which I thought was the point.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On the box blade, you don't need to use all of the rippers. You can take some out to make ripping easier. Yes, you will get chunks but the chunks can be ground up with a tiller which I thought was the point. )</font>
Yes and No! The more I can use the "impliment" ( rear tiller or set of discs) the less I need to use thw walk behind tiller...even as good as it is! I can RIDE a lot more hours than I can walk ( and hence take a beating.lol) Saving my precious legs..lol..for ONLY the small...scatter areas that will contain "plantings" such as Hostas..shrubbery..etc. All the "unplanted" areas will be seeded with a STRONG mixture of deep shade grass(es)
Yes and No! The more I can use the "impliment" ( rear tiller or set of discs) the less I need to use thw walk behind tiller...even as good as it is! I can RIDE a lot more hours than I can walk ( and hence take a beating.lol) Saving my precious legs..lol..for ONLY the small...scatter areas that will contain "plantings" such as Hostas..shrubbery..etc. All the "unplanted" areas will be seeded with a STRONG mixture of deep shade grass(es)
wushaw
Elite Member
Sully2,
With all this talk of disking I couldn't stand it any longer I had to try out my disk even though it only has the two ft. gangs, I hooked it up to my 16hp 2wd Mitsubishi tractor just to see what it would do.
I had the gang set at the highest angle, when I dropped it down it was like throwing out a boat anchor /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gifso I adjusted it to the second lowest angle setting and it would pull it.... straight not in a tight corner.
It did a fair job for about 20min of draggin.
When my other two axles finally show I'll finish it up with the Kubota...it was still fun though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Just like Eddie said it will work.
With all this talk of disking I couldn't stand it any longer I had to try out my disk even though it only has the two ft. gangs, I hooked it up to my 16hp 2wd Mitsubishi tractor just to see what it would do.
I had the gang set at the highest angle, when I dropped it down it was like throwing out a boat anchor /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gifso I adjusted it to the second lowest angle setting and it would pull it.... straight not in a tight corner.
It did a fair job for about 20min of draggin.
When my other two axles finally show I'll finish it up with the Kubota...it was still fun though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Just like Eddie said it will work.
Attachments
Fun is the name of the game though isnt it?.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Rain is holding me up here at present....only about .2 or so a day...but with the fine soil in the backyard ( tilled and retilled and..etc..etc...) its just enough to make it a total MESS if I even step out into it. But I'll have to hit the ground running when it does dry out. I have my ten yards of "super fine conposted topsoil" covered over with tarps..but with the FEL I can re-locate it and get my plants planted..and wonder how Im going to afford to water them when its dry...LOL Looking at locaalized watering systems now..since the electric and water lines are now buried and covered over in the back.
Thanks for the input!
Rain is holding me up here at present....only about .2 or so a day...but with the fine soil in the backyard ( tilled and retilled and..etc..etc...) its just enough to make it a total MESS if I even step out into it. But I'll have to hit the ground running when it does dry out. I have my ten yards of "super fine conposted topsoil" covered over with tarps..but with the FEL I can re-locate it and get my plants planted..and wonder how Im going to afford to water them when its dry...LOL Looking at locaalized watering systems now..since the electric and water lines are now buried and covered over in the back.
Thanks for the input!
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,572
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
My neighbor has a 50hp NH 3010 and used a JD 5-or-6 shank ripper to tear up the topsoil on his 6.5 acre place. Wants to plant an orchard. Then he used a disk harrow to bust up the clods. He made multiple passes in different directions to get it level and smooth.
With your 35-hp Ford, you might want to start with a 3-shank ripper and see what happens.
With your 35-hp Ford, you might want to start with a 3-shank ripper and see what happens.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On a turn MOST of the force (not weight) gets put on only a couple of disks and I think it is the rear ones on the outside of the curve.
)</font>
Reg,
I think your over analyzing this. The disks are set at oposite angles. On mine, the front row are notched and are agled out. The back set are smooth and angled in.
I'm sure the amount of angle can make a difference, but how much is something you'd have to experiement on your land.
Turning changes the angles, but doen's improve the function of the disks. Going straight works the best, and in fact, if the turns are real tight, they will build up a burm or hill in that area. Wide turns are better than tight ones.
I just keep the down preasure all the way down on my disk, put a cushion on my seat to stay comfortable, bring along some cool drinks and a set of headphones for some tunes and plan on staying at it for awhile.
Depending on the soil, it might take a dozen passes for the disks to break through, but once it happens, they work great. You just have to let the tool do the job it's designed to do.
Eddie
)</font>
Reg,
I think your over analyzing this. The disks are set at oposite angles. On mine, the front row are notched and are agled out. The back set are smooth and angled in.
I'm sure the amount of angle can make a difference, but how much is something you'd have to experiement on your land.
Turning changes the angles, but doen's improve the function of the disks. Going straight works the best, and in fact, if the turns are real tight, they will build up a burm or hill in that area. Wide turns are better than tight ones.
I just keep the down preasure all the way down on my disk, put a cushion on my seat to stay comfortable, bring along some cool drinks and a set of headphones for some tunes and plan on staying at it for awhile.
Depending on the soil, it might take a dozen passes for the disks to break through, but once it happens, they work great. You just have to let the tool do the job it's designed to do.
Eddie
Hi Sully2
If you have grass or weeds on the land a disk will work. Ya have to disk it down, go back a week later and disk again. Then you go back a week later and disk again. Then again. Then again. then again. In my case it was an all summer project. I had ok top soil but lots of thick grass. The key, if weeds or grass then disk will work.
Cheers Coffeeman
If you have grass or weeds on the land a disk will work. Ya have to disk it down, go back a week later and disk again. Then you go back a week later and disk again. Then again. Then again. then again. In my case it was an all summer project. I had ok top soil but lots of thick grass. The key, if weeds or grass then disk will work.
Cheers Coffeeman
Eddie,
Yes, I overanalize EVERYTHING ! (-:
It is the rear (smoothe) disk on the inside of the curve that starts things, I was out there looking at the harrow today and visualised what I had seen happening from the tractor seat.
What happens is the whole harrow gets pushed left as you turn the tractor right, so the disk isn't just turning at an angle to the direction it is being dragged, it is ALSO having it's bottom edge pushed into the ground.
For want of a better phrase, "The turning provides an amplifying effect."
Take a saucer out of the kitchen and roll it around on the living room rug, imagine it being dragged and rolled, imagine it also being pushed in the direction where it tends to scoop the rug pile.
Do all of this while nobody else is home, or a well wishing relative might call for the nice men in white coats to come and get you (again).
(-:
Yes, I overanalize EVERYTHING ! (-:
It is the rear (smoothe) disk on the inside of the curve that starts things, I was out there looking at the harrow today and visualised what I had seen happening from the tractor seat.
What happens is the whole harrow gets pushed left as you turn the tractor right, so the disk isn't just turning at an angle to the direction it is being dragged, it is ALSO having it's bottom edge pushed into the ground.
For want of a better phrase, "The turning provides an amplifying effect."
Take a saucer out of the kitchen and roll it around on the living room rug, imagine it being dragged and rolled, imagine it also being pushed in the direction where it tends to scoop the rug pile.
Do all of this while nobody else is home, or a well wishing relative might call for the nice men in white coats to come and get you (again).
(-:
Eddie,
Yes, I overanalize EVERYTHING ! (-:
It is the rear (smoothe) disk on the inside of the curve that starts things, I was out there looking at the harrow today and visualised what I had seen happening from the tractor seat.
What happens is the whole harrow gets pushed left as you turn the tractor right, so the disk isn't just turning at an angle to the direction it is being dragged, it is ALSO having it's bottom edge pushed into the ground.
For want of a better phrase, "The turning provides an amplifying effect."
Take a saucer out of the kitchen and roll it around on the living room rug, imagine it being dragged and rolled, imagine it also being pushed in the direction where it tends to scoop the rug pile.
Do all of this while nobody else is home, or a well wishing relative might call for the nice men in white coats to come and get you (again).
(-:
Yes, I overanalize EVERYTHING ! (-:
It is the rear (smoothe) disk on the inside of the curve that starts things, I was out there looking at the harrow today and visualised what I had seen happening from the tractor seat.
What happens is the whole harrow gets pushed left as you turn the tractor right, so the disk isn't just turning at an angle to the direction it is being dragged, it is ALSO having it's bottom edge pushed into the ground.
For want of a better phrase, "The turning provides an amplifying effect."
Take a saucer out of the kitchen and roll it around on the living room rug, imagine it being dragged and rolled, imagine it also being pushed in the direction where it tends to scoop the rug pile.
Do all of this while nobody else is home, or a well wishing relative might call for the nice men in white coats to come and get you (again).
(-:
