Rear Blade Why doesn't my rear blade cut?

[dcyrilc]

Cyril,
The 4520 and 2240 are both 50 pto hp, but your tractor should have a higher draft and cat II hitch as I recall.

Correct.
The larger tires and draft make the machine look larger which is why I made an attempt at humor about seeing the 65 behind the 2240. Even more so if I take the picture with the duels on the tractor. LOL

 

[jenkinsph]

Cyril,

So did yu get a chance to play with the adjustments yet?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Very similar. Nearly identical design, just larger.

I'm sorry, is it in as good of shape? You need to be careful while using it. Your tractor has the power to bend it without much effort. I bent my MidWest rear blade, actually straightened some of the curve out of the C along with bending the blade backwards as in my blade is no longer straight. These lighter duty blades will not withstand heavy use. In other words, if you can get your blade to roll and carry a load as in my picture with my Land Pride blade, it will end up bending. This is with proper use, but over time, it will end up bending. Post some pics when you can with how you would have it set to grade. Remember, the boom should be close to parallel to the grading surface.

 

[dcyrilc]

Cyril,

So did you get a chance to play with the adjustments yet?

No. As I posted earlier, I have my boom flail mower mounted currently and won't have a chance to change over for a day or two yet.

The boom mower is a real pain to mount and dismount so I have been dragging my feet to dismount it while I'm waiting for the mounting bracket for the controls to be built. As soon as the mounting bracket is finished, I can mow my ditches and then I won't need it again for a couple of months. I'll swap out this weekend. That way I can bet that the mounting bracket will be finished on Monday. LOL

I figured that since I was stuck waiting for a way to mount my mower controls, that I would start trying to figure out why my blade doesn't cut well. I should have known that I would need to mount it up and take some pix. Part of the learning curve I guess.

 

[dangerdoc]

I'm sorry, is it in as good of shape? You need to be careful while using it. Your tractor has the power to bend it without much effort. I bent my MidWest rear blade, actually straightened some of the curve out of the C along with bending the blade backwards as in my blade is no longer straight. These lighter duty blades will not withstand heavy use. In other words, if you can get your blade to roll and carry a load as in my picture with my Land Pride blade, it will end up bending. This is with proper use, but over time, it will end up bending. Post some pics when you can with how you would have it set to grade. Remember, the boom should be close to parallel to the grading surface.

After 8 years of good service, I finally bent my blade pretty bad over the weekend. I snagged a large buried rock next the the road. I was moving pretty fast because I was in a hurry to get done and mount the finish mower.

I'll need to keep my eyes open for a good used one.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

After 8 years of good service, I finally bent my blade pretty bad over the weekend. I snagged a large buried rock next the the road. I was moving pretty fast because I was in a hurry to get done and mount the finish mower.

I'll need to keep my eyes open for a good used one.[/quote]


The good used ones are out there. A guy here on TBN found a $3500 Land Pride for between $1000-$1500, I don't remember for sure how much, but they are out there.

 

[dcyrilc]

I'm sorry, is it in as good of shape? You need to be careful while using it. Your tractor has the power to bend it without much effort. I bent my MidWest rear blade, actually straightened some of the curve out of the C along with bending the blade backwards as in my blade is no longer straight. These lighter duty blades will not withstand heavy use. In other words, if you can get your blade to roll and carry a load as in my picture with my Land Pride blade, it will end up bending. This is with proper use, but over time, it will end up bending. Post some pics when you can with how you would have it set to grade. Remember, the boom should be close to parallel to the grading surface.

Sorry Brian, missed your post somehow.

My blade is partially rusted, but I dont think it's too bad. I'll try to get some pix this weekend if not sooner. I have been using it with the boom about as close to level as possible without actually putting a level on it to check it.

I'll see how my energy is after work tomorrow. I have to get up early and run a friend and his wife to the airport before starting work at 7am in the morning.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'll see how my energy is after work tomorrow. I have to get up early and run a friend and his wife to the airport before starting work at 7am in the morning.

Wait for the weekend, or after you are done with the mower, no rush on my part.

 

[crusty 1]

cyril,slow down my friend.I honestly don,t know how you,re able to do what you do!I guess that I too used to work long hours but ALL I got out of it were blisterers.You have to tel me some tim,e of your livestock.I only know of angus and gernsey.Your highlands look to be a sterdy breed.

 

[dcyrilc]

OK, got the mower swapped out for the rear blade tonight and tried some different things. The first thing I checked was the angle of the boom when I attached the RB. I had previously used it at the angle it sat when I attached it with the front support leg down. I mistakenly assumed that it sat level when unattached. The first picture shows that it actually sits tipped quite forward. I tipped the RB back and tried grading with it. It performed much better and actually would get a full blade of material.

After I finished, I spent some time looking over the blade and discovered that there is 1/2" worn off the cutting edge and that it has never been flipped. Picture 2 shows an end shot of the cutting edge and picture 5 shows the front.

I also discovered that my blade is offsetable by 12" to either side by removing the blade from the boom and reattaching it in a different set of mounting holes. Picture 3.

I discovered that if I tip much past level, the rear edge of the blade draggs on the ground. Pix 3 & 4.