When is a Chain at End of Life

[WinterDeere]

I suspect that, scaled for inflation, chains must be much cheaper today than 40-50 years ago. Increases in offshore manufacturing and automation essentially ensure that.

As to how far to take them down, it seems to me nearly every chain I have ever owned has a scribe mark across the top of each tooth, that I've always assumed was the "end of life" indicator. Your chain, just guessing from the photo, must be right at that mark on most teeth if not beyond it on a few.

Keeping one or two along with an old bar around for "dirty" jobs, probably isn't a bad idea, for some. But I never cut roots with my saws, what I can't get with a hatchet or shovel is hired out to friends with stump grinders or excavators.

 

[xyz123]

My experience is opposite the OP. Back in the old days saw chains were expensive and difficult to get. You used them until pretty worn out. Nowadays they are cheap and easy to buy online. I sharpen them until 1/2 worn down and toss them.

No sense in being penny wise and pound foolish.

Just lower your rakers or drags whatever you want to call them. Depending where from. Just set them right as you file the cutter back.

But half is where a chain starts cutting good IMHO.

Why you think race chain is taken to the back rivet area. Where they start cutting best and chip clearance etc.

New chain I took back to there on purpose.

 

[xyz123]

At end root cutter chains.

Now I have stihl carbide chains so dont have to keep sharpening them.

 

[WinterDeere]

Just lower your rakers or drags whatever you want to call them. Depending where from. Just set them right as you file the cutter back.

But half is where a chain starts cutting good IMHO.

I also take my depth gauges (“rakers”) down below stock, but when you have a forum full of relative notices recommending 20” bars on tiny 50cc saws, that doesn’t work so well. Every thousandth of an inch you reduce that raker height increases the bite accordingly, and takes a little more horsepower to drag it thru the cut.

When people think I’m nuts for recommending a bar no larger than 18” on a 63cc saws, it’s because I’m filing my rakers 20% below stock for a faster cut, and often cutting large diameter hardwoods with the nose of the bar buried. All of that really increases horsepower demand for a given bar length.

Why you think race chain is taken to the back rivet area. Where they start cutting best and chip clearance etc.

Some of those saws have more horsepower than small motorcycles.