Wheel spacers a different way.

[LD1]

I am sure this will be frowned upon, due to the increased risk of bending axles and what not. But I am not here to has that out. I an well aware of the risks.

They are each 1-1/2". So makes measuring across the back wheels a total of 3" wider.

Gonna also do some measuring and weighing today (if I get time) and find the CG of my tractor under various configurations. EG: bushhog and FEL, Just FEL, and bare tractor. To see if having a lowered FEL helps CG or hurts it, cause I know that one gets debated quite a bit.

 

[oldnslo]

LD1,
Should be a lot less axle strain that running duals and a very creative idea.

 

[FTG-05]

Where did you get wheel spacers?


And please tell me you weren't working on that vehicle with only that floor jack holding it up!

 

[LD1]

Spacers were made. 1-1/2" diameter stock drilled 5/8" thru.

About the jack. I can tell you whatever you want to hear. I wasn't working under anything. And at the end of the day, I just don't care what others opinions are on the matter. This thread is about doing spacers a different way. And NOT about how I work and the safety police.

 

[Citydude]

That's a good idea! Very economical wheel spacers.

 

[5030]

Whatever blows your dress up I guess.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would keep a close watch on those spacer welds AND the bolts. You have a lot more stress on the lug bolts in that configuration than normal placement. If it works and doesn't break, its a great idea.
I wouldn't be working on a side slope just yet. Test them out well on level ground first.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Similar to what I did... I gained 4.5" per side, 9" total.

 

[skyhook]

Looks good, I think you'll be impressed with the new handling.
Turned mine inside out and got a similar distance, but not quite as wide.
Lots of room for chains, should you need them.
By the way, get that left rear light looked after....lol

 

[LD1]

I would keep a close watch on those spacer welds AND the bolts. You have a lot more stress on the lug bolts in that configuration than normal placement. If it works and doesn't break, its a great idea.
I wouldn't be working on a side slope just yet. Test them out well on level ground first.

I have worked the tractor about 6 hours of mowing so far and all is looking good. I think this set-up is just as strong as kubota factory.The original bolts were a low grade carriage style bolt. Maybe metric 8.8?

My concerns about bolt strength were the same as yours, Thats why the spacers are machined for a snug fit of the bolt, then welded to the hubs, and used grade 8. 4 5/8" grade 8 bolts....I dont think I'll exceed their capacity. And given the weld of the ear on the rim, I think those would break off first.

But again, this is all experimental, I know all the possible things that can happen, and have been watching it closely.

Also, there isnt as much weight on them as you think. Doing some weighing, As the tractor sits, with the bushhog in the air, there is 3200# on the rear axle. Take the weight of the rims, tires, and fluid off, and there is only ~2600# over the rear axle with the bushhog in the air. So its only 1300# over each rear wheel/rim connection. Not as much as one would think just by looking. And with the bushhog lowered so there is weight on the tailwheel, I bet that number drops to 1000# or so.

Similar to what I did... I gained 4.5" per side, 9" total.

Those look sweet. I didnt want to go that much wider and push my luck with bending an axle. I was really considering duals. But if I did that, It wouldnt be that much harder on the axle than now, cause I would have set to the narrowest possible config, then add the dual, which wouldnt be much wider than now.