Welder Recommendations

[brewdog]

Anyone have a PrimeWeld welder, esp the PrimeWeld 180? How do you like it and how long have you had it?

I have a PrimeWeld MIG 180 and its the best welder I’ve had. Comes with a no B.S. warranty for three years. This machine will make you look like a pro welder. Primeweld is in New Jersey with a full staff. When you call they answer and help you right away. Best $550 bucks I’ve ever spent. I went the 15 foot Lead and not sorry I did.

 

[Cub 7275]

Good advice here. Learn to "stick weld" first, a Lincoln "tombstone" 225 AC/DC is what I'd recommend or a similar welder. MIG is great, but they don't like dirty metal, but If I had to pick a single good all round welder it'd be a "Stick" welder for general farm use. I've know several guys that ran before they walked and bought a MIG first and when presented with a stick welder because the MIG wouldn't weld it were dead in the water. I'd get a stick welder and try learning the "hard way," trial and error, then take a class at the local community college or trade school if you don't catch on right to start with. Do some reading on metal thickness and rod size. "My" rule of thumb, what ever diameter rod you're using, is the amperage to start with. A 1/8 inch rod is 0.125 diameter, set the amps at 125A, if you're burning through, weld/move faster or lower your amperage. Match you rod size to the metal thickness. Google around on YouTube, it'll help.

Those Lincoln tombstone welders are awesome. We'd weld for hours until they overheated, let em cool down and go right back at it. They were at the company when I started and still there 20 years later when I left. That was 20 years ago now. My neighbor just picked one up for like $150 off facebook. It was fun to weld with one again.

Almost all the weld problems we had over the years were from suppliers mig welds lacking proper fusion and that has made me vary biased against mig, especially in the hands of a novice. I will never be comfortable with squirt gun (mig) welds on anything structural. Yes mig is a legitimate welding process IF DONE CORRECTLY. If you insist on getting a mig then get a 220 volt unit and always make sure your metal is super clean before you start to weld on it (but don't use brake cleaner!)

Stick rods have the proper flux coating so grab any type rod, any thickness, adjust the welder and go at it. No regulators to adjust. No need to change shielding gas. No need to change tips or liners. No nozzles to clean. No wire birds nests. No worries about the shielding gas running out on a Sunday. A rod can be bent or a short drop can be used to get into tight spaces where you'd never be able to get a mig gun in. Metal prep isn't as critical with some of the rods, like say 7014. I have yet to see a good looking stick weld bead that isn't any good, can't say the same for mig.

Hey Guys,

My brother has a Lincoln 140 Pro Mig Welder he's had for 1.5 yrs and wants $550 drive out. Comes w everything that was in the original box. It has the flux-core option so I'm not tied to only using gases. Can weld up up 1/4" materials, so for now, that should do me fine. He wants to get a larger welder, I believe a Miller 2XX. What do you guys think?

Note, I only have 220 for my electric dryer at ranch. The two places I plan on doing my welding are both 120V. But, I can easily upgrade one of the outlets to 220V if I ever need to do so.

There is a reason why he's getting rid of it. 1/4" on paper maybe, real world not likely. I have an older Miller XP130 120V mig just for doing thin sheet metal. It's really marginal on anything thicker than 1/8".

 

[Fields_mj]

I use a 160amp AMICO DC stick welder that I bought off amazon for around $150 several years ago. It's done everything I've ever ask of it, but I rarely weld anything thin. 1/8" material is getting pretty thin for me. Normally I'm welding steel that's between 3/16" and 3/8" thick, with most of it being 1/4". Dual voltage is nice, but you're not going to actually do much with a 110v stick welder. It will either kick out for duty cycle all the time, or continually trip your breaker. Much better to use it as a 230v unit. Below is a link to the current version of what I have (or the nearest I could find).

https://www.amazon.com/SF-160A-160-Amp-Lift-TIG-Voltage-Welding/dp/B09466532Z/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3EPAUOGZJ39Q1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Q4eJzyGYTG1DdwjbWZhptM2JOyUzrVbLRHv4ZuGOjGFrZHQuqtd4OgzesJqXGMnzDp_MkXvo4gOybibPI9KFrO4mjGFtHO6eTKPiE1_BBEkSpjiwY7-tqH_Rs80qDWjDx410DrY6s24-rV30G5S5gfTBJhXax8uaIJbtril1KbRzv4A7-49EL7n_8n4a8a6cD8s8lQYYKW-PDkDlrE7Gfx1mGKoaTimgJQF2A_Xex75xr1BgpmVgwkZJyd_jLEQgZOYWGeuA7xJQv0MSmv-vOIT8rLEqTtaTJ9-DK5Qi6tk.lvrUO91pE1ZYURY6lIXNTVoSQmbAckbGPqwEUQQS83k&dib_tag=se&keywords=amico+160amp+welder&qid=1750249597&sprefix=amico+160amp+welder%2Caps%2C387&sr=8-8

I've done quite a bit of work with a couple of nice Miller MIG units in the past, but I don't have enough experience with the smaller stuff to make a recommendation. A friend of mine had a Hobart 140 that he really liked. I've used a couple of cheap 110v units, and they sucked. If I were buying a MIG, I'd stick with Hobart, Miller, or Lincoln, and I'd try to find one somewhere that I could play with for an hour or so before I went and bought one. That way I understood what its capabilities were.

You can get a good stick welder for pretty cheap, and they can do a lot, but they don't do as well with thin material. MIG is more expensive to buy, and more expensive to use if you're using the gas, but they are also more flexible. TIG is SWEET, but also super expensive. I think all of the TIG units I've used were 3 phase. I wouldn't even try to use one of the cheap scratch start TIG systems.

 

[gstrom99]

I went the 15 foot Lead and not sorry I did.

When I (just) replaced my lead/torch, I went with the standard 10 foot. BUT - the welder came with a 20 foot power cord, which I learned to really appreciate. I could roll the welder all over the shop, and not have to drag the piece to the welder. The new 30x54 shop has two 220v outlets, one on each end of the shop.

 

[jrsavoie]

The easiest to learn on, and the one capable of welding most anything is going to be an AC/DC arc welder. Preferably a used one is you are trying to save money. They never wear out. Just don't get one that is AC only. The DC welding is a lot easier with better results for beginners.

Then it's just a matter or figuring out what welding sticks to use for what you are doing. I use 6013 for almost everything on my place.

It's also a good idea to take a welding class. It's a lot faster learning curve when you have somebody explain to you what you are trying to do, how to prepare the metal, and to know how to accomplish it.

Skip the 6013 and go with 7018. It's much easier to control.

This welder gets good reviews. I was going to buy one to replace a Miller Thunderbolt I sold my brother.
I still.might. if it was going to be a bit, before I can weld again. I'd have bought it already

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CP5PBMTK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_40?smid=A2ORQV48AMQFWX&psc=1

 

[Teachu2]

Buy once, cry once. My first welding machine was a Lincoln 225 AC/DC "tombstone" welder. Thirty-five years later, still works like new. For fast repairs on 1/8" or thicker metal, it's hard to beat. Very versatile, cost-effective, and no maintenance expense. Consumables (welding rods) are widely available.
Second was a Hobart Handler 135 110V Mig. Great little machine, would run off a 4500W generator, worked fine on 1/8" or thinner steel. One of my sons borrowed it at left it out in the weather...
Next was a Miller MM210 220V Mig. It's been my primary fabrication welder for a quarter century. Sheet metal to trailer frames, it will get the job done. Probably does over 90% of my welding work. In it's day, it was very popular in fabrication shops. Many are still in use today, mine included. Very little maintenance needed.
Finally, I found myself doing enough remote work that I bought a Miller Bobcat 250 engine-driven welder that doubles as a 10k generator. I mounted it on a little Harbor Freight trailer, and it goes anywhere I need it to. It also powers the MM210 if I want to use Mig where 220V is not available. If you don't need to weld where power is unavailable, don't even consider it. I rented an engine-drive until I had enough need to justify owning one. Prices have tripled since then.

 

[5030]

Still have my 'Tombstone' Lincoln ac / dc buzz box as well. Gotta be 50 years old and works first time, every time. All I use it for anymore is enticing earthworms out of the grass when it's time to go fishing.

I have a Lincoln engine drive ac/dc welder with an High frequency box on it so I can do scratch start TOG if I need it. Powered by an old school Kohler cast iron engine that is as reliable as a rock and is fitted to frame that fits in the back of the truck so I can weld anywhere if required. I've done a lot of 'in field' repairs with it in the middle of farm fields in the past. While I've gotten away from SMAW welding for the most part, it still comes in handy at times.

 

[Runner]

My buzz box is the Monkey Wards version.

 

[5030]

My buzz box is the Monkey Wards version.View attachment 3631750

Built by Lincoln Electric and rebadged Monkey Wards.... There is absolutely nothing to fail insude of them other than the contactors getting dirty and that is an easy fix as well. Little sandpaper to remove the oxidadtion on the contacts and that is it. Even my ac/dc is stone simple, just another set of contacts on a physical switch.

Compared to a modern solid state IGBT machine, it's a reliable rock. Being a transformer machine however, they are power hungry.

 

[deserteagle71]

My buzz box is the Monkey Wards version.

Just a Lincoln tombstone with a different label stuck on it.......