Bird
Rest in Peace
Congratulations, Eddie! This has been an interesting and informative thread. You did a great job.
Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
- Thread starter EddieWalker
- Start date
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Bird
Rest in Peace
Congratulations, Eddie! This has been an interesting and informative thread. You did a great job.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Eddie:
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Eddie:
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
That fix of the rubber hose is worlds better than what it replaced, but I worry about the rubber hose rubbing on the inside of the galvanized nipple.
I usually handle a chaffing hose by splitting a piece of radiator hose lengthwise and putting it over the real hose. I hold everything down with either a hose clamp like you did, or nylon cable ties.
Best of luck on the rebuild, I am following this with great interest.
Did you take a picture of the sleeves with an o-ring installed?
Dave
whitetiger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 377
- Location
- Kansas City, Kansas
- Tractor
- BX2370 Kubota, Ford 1100, MF135
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Rob,
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
whitetiger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 377
- Location
- Kansas City, Kansas
- Tractor
- BX2370 Kubota, Ford 1100, MF135
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Rob,
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
Your right, I did it exactly like I said, and NOT like you said. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I went back and looked up how you explained it to me and realize that I got it wrong!!!! I just did what looked like the easy way and didn't think twice about it. Now I need to go back and do it right.
I can take off the valve cover easy enough and do it again, but now the fans on, so it's a little more effort to turn the engine over. I also have the injector nozzles in, so that means I'll have comression to deal with too!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
At least I still didn't put the air filter on yet, so there's room to get around.
Thank you.
Eddie
)</font>
Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Congrats on getting it running!!!!!!!
As far as breakin, Cummins says warm it up at a fast idle to operating temp, then open throttle to about half and use lightly for 15-20 minutes, then open it wide open and use it as normal. Make sure and let it cool at idle for 5 minutes or so before shutting it off like you normaly would. Change oil after first 50 hours and then at your normal service time.
Have fun with it and do not let it sit and idle
for extended periods of time during your first 50 hours or so.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Great Job, Eddie !!
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Great Job, Eddie !!
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, this is the exact reason I gave you a setting method that is goof-proof. I do not know a pro service tec that does not use it. It may take a few minutes longer but you know the vales are set correct. In the 25+ years I have done diesel overhauls and repair it has never failed.
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
Did you add a coolant conditioner to your coolant? Need to protect those new sleeves. )</font>
Your right, but I think you give me more credit here. I read what you said, thought I understood it, and did it totally wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I appreciate your efforts, and except for this blunder on my part, I really appreciate all the time you took in helping me through this project.
When you say coolant conditioner, what is that?
I did add four gallons of anti freeze. Does that qualify as a conditioner, or is there something special I need to use?
Eddie
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Dave,
Thanks for the tip on the tubing. I'll work on fixing it. I didn't like the use another piece of tubing because I thought it might colapse when I tighten the hose clamp. I got it really tight!!
The only picture I took of the sleeves was the group shot with everything in the kit that I posted earlier. Sorry, I didn't get a good picture for you. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Eddie
Thanks for the tip on the tubing. I'll work on fixing it. I didn't like the use another piece of tubing because I thought it might colapse when I tighten the hose clamp. I got it really tight!!
The only picture I took of the sleeves was the group shot with everything in the kit that I posted earlier. Sorry, I didn't get a good picture for you. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Eddie
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Dave,
Thanks for the tip on the tubing. I'll work on fixing it. I didn't like the use another piece of tubing because I thought it might colapse when I tighten the hose clamp. I got it really tight!!
The only picture I took of the sleeves was the group shot with everything in the kit that I posted earlier. Sorry, I didn't get a good picture for you. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Eddie
Thanks for the tip on the tubing. I'll work on fixing it. I didn't like the use another piece of tubing because I thought it might colapse when I tighten the hose clamp. I got it really tight!!
The only picture I took of the sleeves was the group shot with everything in the kit that I posted earlier. Sorry, I didn't get a good picture for you. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Eddie
The coolant conditioner he's talking about is an "anti cavitation" additive to protect your sleves from electrolysis.. I would immagine you could get it at your parts store, but you can definitly get it at your local Ford dealer, just ask for the diesel coolant additive.. And congratulations!!! You did it right and it should last you forever /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The coolant conditioner he's talking about is an "anti cavitation" additive to protect your sleves from electrolysis.. I would immagine you could get it at your parts store, but you can definitly get it at your local Ford dealer, just ask for the diesel coolant additive.. And congratulations!!! You did it right and it should last you forever /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
MarkV
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,698
- Location
- Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
- Tractor
- 1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39
Way to go Eddie!!! I am almost sorry this is over. I was starting to feel like my wife with her soap opera. Had to check in every day to see what was happening.
Great job, go move some dirt. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
MarkV
Great job, go move some dirt. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
MarkV
MarkV
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,698
- Location
- Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
- Tractor
- 1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39
Way to go Eddie!!! I am almost sorry this is over. I was starting to feel like my wife with her soap opera. Had to check in every day to see what was happening.
Great job, go move some dirt. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
MarkV
Great job, go move some dirt. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
MarkV
tjkadar
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2005
- Messages
- 712
- Location
- Sumter, SC
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 5609, Kubota GS1800, eXmark LazerZ XP
Great job on the rebuild Eddie! Like a few others, I have some mixed emotions about the end of this thread. I enojyed checking it everyday to see the progress. I couldn't wait until the day came to fire up the dozer. I never had any doubts you would have this thing up and running. But now that she is running, no more updates and pictures of big pistons, wet sleeves, and other big motor parts.
That is the sad part... However, now we can look forward to more pond building reports! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Congrats on a job well done!
That is the sad part... However, now we can look forward to more pond building reports! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Congrats on a job well done!
tjkadar
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2005
- Messages
- 712
- Location
- Sumter, SC
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 5609, Kubota GS1800, eXmark LazerZ XP
Great job on the rebuild Eddie! Like a few others, I have some mixed emotions about the end of this thread. I enojyed checking it everyday to see the progress. I couldn't wait until the day came to fire up the dozer. I never had any doubts you would have this thing up and running. But now that she is running, no more updates and pictures of big pistons, wet sleeves, and other big motor parts.
That is the sad part... However, now we can look forward to more pond building reports! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Congrats on a job well done!
That is the sad part... However, now we can look forward to more pond building reports! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Congrats on a job well done!
Eddie,
It's a great feeling when the beast awakes and rumbles to life! Congrats.
On break-in. I am assuming that you used chrome faced rings? They will take a while to break in. Hundreds of hours to really break in all the way. You need to seat the rings by operating for a couple hours under a moderate and varied load. Move some dirt at medium throttle, but don't operate at full throttle for the first 8-10 hours. Be extra careful to fully warm up before you really give er. But, just as you don't want to operate at full throttle, you also don't want to idle much. The rings are not sealing all the way yet and you can get fuel wash down on the cylinders. Probably not a concern in your warm climate, but...
I like to change the oil & filter after seating the rings (8-10 hours of moderate operation) and then again at 50 hours. For fun, you can put a strong magnet or 3 on the outside of the filter, then after you change it, cut the filter open and see how much magnetic stuff was caught by the magnet. (I use magnets from old computer hard disk drives). See attached picture of the inside of an oil filter with magnets on the outside. The dark rectangles are particles that form the outline of the magnets.
jb
It's a great feeling when the beast awakes and rumbles to life! Congrats.
On break-in. I am assuming that you used chrome faced rings? They will take a while to break in. Hundreds of hours to really break in all the way. You need to seat the rings by operating for a couple hours under a moderate and varied load. Move some dirt at medium throttle, but don't operate at full throttle for the first 8-10 hours. Be extra careful to fully warm up before you really give er. But, just as you don't want to operate at full throttle, you also don't want to idle much. The rings are not sealing all the way yet and you can get fuel wash down on the cylinders. Probably not a concern in your warm climate, but...
I like to change the oil & filter after seating the rings (8-10 hours of moderate operation) and then again at 50 hours. For fun, you can put a strong magnet or 3 on the outside of the filter, then after you change it, cut the filter open and see how much magnetic stuff was caught by the magnet. (I use magnets from old computer hard disk drives). See attached picture of the inside of an oil filter with magnets on the outside. The dark rectangles are particles that form the outline of the magnets.
jb
Last edited:
Eddie,
It's a great feeling when the beast awakes and rumbles to life! Congrats.
On break-in. I am assuming that you used chrome faced rings? They will take a while to break in. Hundreds of hours to really break in all the way. You need to seat the rings by operating for a couple hours under a moderate and varied load. Move some dirt at medium throttle, but don't operate at full throttle for the first 8-10 hours. Be extra careful to fully warm up before you really give er. But, just as you don't want to operate at full throttle, you also don't want to idle much. The rings are not sealing all the way yet and you can get fuel wash down on the cylinders. Probably not a concern in your warm climate, but...
I like to change the oil & filter after seating the rings (8-10 hours of moderate operation) and then again at 50 hours. For fun, you can put a strong magnet or 3 on the outside of the filter, then after you change it, cut the filter open and see how much magnetic stuff was caught by the magnet. (I use magnets from old computer hard disk drives). See attached picture of the inside of an oil filter with magnets on the outside. The dark rectangles are particles that form the outline of the magnets.
jb
It's a great feeling when the beast awakes and rumbles to life! Congrats.
On break-in. I am assuming that you used chrome faced rings? They will take a while to break in. Hundreds of hours to really break in all the way. You need to seat the rings by operating for a couple hours under a moderate and varied load. Move some dirt at medium throttle, but don't operate at full throttle for the first 8-10 hours. Be extra careful to fully warm up before you really give er. But, just as you don't want to operate at full throttle, you also don't want to idle much. The rings are not sealing all the way yet and you can get fuel wash down on the cylinders. Probably not a concern in your warm climate, but...
I like to change the oil & filter after seating the rings (8-10 hours of moderate operation) and then again at 50 hours. For fun, you can put a strong magnet or 3 on the outside of the filter, then after you change it, cut the filter open and see how much magnetic stuff was caught by the magnet. (I use magnets from old computer hard disk drives). See attached picture of the inside of an oil filter with magnets on the outside. The dark rectangles are particles that form the outline of the magnets.
jb
