Wallenstein fx110

[Mallard1]

I made a thread about using log rings to pull logs out of the woods and that has sent me down a rabbit hole of logging winches. We have a large acreage of hardwood timber that we have no plans to harvest. However we have plenty blow down every year and every year talk about how much money is rotting away from down trees. This year we had a wind storm that blocked a lot of our trails and we did haul out the logs to the saw mill. Now thinking of getting a 3pt winch and pulling out some of the closer logs.

The tractors being used are a 48hp jd4320 with loaded tires. And a NH work master 75. It looks like the fx110 would be a good fit. Can anyone give me a reason I shouldn’t get one? Also how many releasing snatch blocks would be recommended?

 

[newbury]

Have you realistically analyzed how much you can expect to sell and for how much?
Mixed hardwood sawtimber was going for < $30/ton 4th quarter 2022, compared to ~$40/ton in 2015.
source
http://extension.msstate.edu/sites/default/files/topic-pdfs/Timber Prices/4q-2022-price-report.pdf

 

[Mallard1]

We sold red oak for $80 ton and white oak for $90 ton 2 weeks ago. I don’t plan to mess with gum or hickory. We have historically sold a lot a timber. just now not cutting any hardwood for the foreseeable future and just managing pine. This will be something completely separate and just because I don’t like to see them rot.

Also the prices you showed are stumpage vs we are getting delivered price which will be $20-25 ton higher.

 

[Mallard1]

Anyone use this model and have any feedback on it, any reason I should look at a different manufacturer?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Any main line winch manufacturer would be fine. They all make good solid winches. Pick one that has the features you like. The winch mechanisms will not be troublesome or lacking in any way.

Edit: A winch from main manufacturer like Wallenstein or Farmi or any other popular one will hold it's value for a long long time.

gg

 

[oldtimer 66]

I have almost the same setup. I have the Wallenstein FX110 with remote and a John Deere compact 4320 with cab. I know I have some pictures. The cab caused a problem mounting the winch. I had to modify the top link on the winch and the cut down the safety screen so I wouldn't break the back window and hit the roof of the cab. The remote caused problems at first because of debris in the control valve. Its a work safer though. My model had a 2 button remote which I converted to a single button. The way I understand it now the new ones are a larger single button remote. I bough one self releasing snatch block but I don't use it any more. For what ever reason it pinched the cable real bad once. I use the cheap Harbor Freight snatch blocks now. I have modified them to use a draw bar grab hook. Another thing I don't choke around the tree with the nylon strap. I use a basket hitch with the draw bar grab hooks. I have pulled really hard at times and the choker around the tree has taken the bark off all the way around the tree. I have 2 of the HF snatch blocks modified and another to modify. For me 3 snatch blocks will work perfectly. I bought the winch because my hip was starting to bother me from getting on and off the tractor when skidding the logs with the draw bar. You know how that is. Hook up to short, hook up to long etc. Only problem now is that my hip bothers me all the time. I have the loaded tires, wheel weights and chains when I am working in the woods. I modified the kick stand to a single from the doubles and I leave it on all the time. There are a couple of pictures of the snatch block modifications.

 

[Mallard1]

I have almost the same setup. I have the Wallenstein FX110 with remote and a John Deere compact 4320 with cab. I know I have some pictures. The cab caused a problem mounting the winch. I had to modify the top link on the winch and the cut down the safety screen so I wouldn't break the back window and hit the roof of the cab. The remote caused problems at first because of debris in the control valve. Its a work safer though. My model had a 2 button remote which I converted to a single button. The way I understand it now the new ones are a larger single button remote. I bough one self releasing snatch block but I don't use it any more. For what ever reason it pinched the cable real bad once. I use the cheap Harbor Freight snatch blocks now. I have modified them to use a draw bar grab hook. Another thing I don't choke around the tree with the nylon strap. I use a basket hitch with the draw bar grab hooks. I have pulled really hard at times and the choker around the tree has taken the bark off all the way around the tree. I have 2 of the HF snatch blocks modified and another to modify. For me 3 snatch blocks will work perfectly. I bought the winch because my hip was starting to bother me from getting on and off the tractor when skidding the logs with the draw bar. You know how that is. Hook up to short, hook up to long etc. Only problem now is that my hip bothers me all the time. I have the loaded tires, wheel weights and chains when I am working in the woods. I modified the kick stand to a single from the doubles and I leave it on all the time. There are a couple of pictures of the snatch block modifications.

View attachment 822202View attachment 822206View attachment 822207View attachment 822208View attachment 822213

Thank you for your reply, good to hear the 4320 is up to the task. Also thank you for the info on the snatch blocks.

Would you consider the remote worth the $2000 upgrade.

What about synthetic rope for $1000?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have a Wallerstein winch, I would not even consider synthetic rope! It won't last like steel.

Only other brand I'd consider is Farmi, but I am happy with my Wallerstein.

I pulled a lot of trees with mine and it's been a great buy!

SR

 

[Mallard1]

I have almost the same setup. I have the Wallenstein FX110 with remote and a John Deere compact 4320 with cab. I know I have some pictures. The cab caused a problem mounting the winch. I had to modify the top link on the winch and the cut down the safety screen so I wouldn't break the back window and hit the roof of the cab. The remote caused problems at first because of debris in the control valve. Its a work safer though. My model had a 2 button remote which I converted to a single button. The way I understand it now the new ones are a larger single button remote. I bough one self releasing snatch block but I don't use it any more. For what ever reason it pinched the cable real bad once. I use the cheap Harbor Freight snatch blocks now. I have modified them to use a draw bar grab hook. Another thing I don't choke around the tree with the nylon strap. I use a basket hitch with the draw bar grab hooks. I have pulled really hard at times and the choker around the tree has taken the bark off all the way around the tree. I have 2 of the HF snatch blocks modified and another to modify. For me 3 snatch blocks will work perfectly. I bought the winch because my hip was starting to bother me from getting on and off the tractor when skidding the logs with the draw bar. You know how that is. Hook up to short, hook up to long etc. Only problem now is that my hip bothers me all the time. I have the loaded tires, wheel weights and chains when I am working in the woods. I modified the kick stand to a single from the doubles and I leave it on all the time. There are a couple of pictures of the snatch block modifications.

View attachment 822202View attachment 822206View attachment 822207View attachment 822208View attachment 822213

Also I see the model with the remote uses one of the rear remotes, what are you controlling with this and when do you use it? Thanks

 

[Gordon Gould]

A couple mods I made on my self-release snatch block. If you are using 3/8" cable or smaller it can easily jam under the sheave like this

which causes a bad kink as oldtimer mentioned.

I brazed a section of rod on the frame to prevent this

I didn't like the permanently attached sling so I made this from a shackle.

That way I can set the strap on the tree w/o dealing with the 13 lb snatch block hanging on it. Once the strap is set it is quick and easy to connect the block.

Be careful to set the strap/block so it splits the angle the cable will make. That way the strap will not spin around the tree when pressure is applied and bark the tree.

gg