Using mig wire to tig

[CNC Dan]

I do not have HF so I am scratch Tig only and thus can not drop off amps/pedal as the piece heats up as you travel along; especially as you approach an edge.

That is tough. Have you tried going half way, stopping, then starting on the other side, meeting in the middle? Restarting on the other side lets the part cool, so you won't be too hot on the edge.

 

[muddstopper]

well, I have HF start and a foot pedal. In my case it aint the machine, its the operator malfunction. I am thinking about getting a new torch. My current one is a wp26v weldcraft, 200amp. This model has the cable and airline going into the torch body. To me it makes for a very heavy torch and as I weld, I notice I let the torch angle droop. I think going to a torch with just the hose, would make everything a little lighter. I have a couple of 9v torches, one is a flex head. All I really need is the hose and connector block for the weld lead. All three of my torches have the air valve on the handle, but air flows thru, and is cut on and off by, the machine. I think the 9v is rated for 125amps, but would have to look for the specs to be sure.

one thing I like about the ft pedal is the ability to just ease off the pedal if I see i am getting to hot. I try to adjust the heat so that I am welding with the pedal fully depressed, but as the metal heats up, being able to let up off the pedal helps maintain a constant travel speed.

 

[firemanmike69]

well, I have HF start and a foot pedal. In my case it aint the machine, its the operator malfunction. I am thinking about getting a new torch. My current one is a wp26v weldcraft, 200amp. This model has the cable and airline going into the torch body. To me it makes for a very heavy torch and as I weld, I notice I let the torch angle droop. I think going to a torch with just the hose, would make everything a little lighter. I have a couple of 9v torches, one is a flex head. All I really need is the hose and connector block for the weld lead. All three of my torches have the air valve on the handle, but air flows thru, and is cut on and off by, the machine. I think the 9v is rated for 125amps, but would have to look for the specs to be sure. one thing I like about the ft pedal is the ability to just ease off the pedal if I see i am getting to hot. I try to adjust the heat so that I am welding with the pedal fully depressed, but as the metal heats up, being able to let up off the pedal helps maintain a constant travel speed.

I like having it set so I'm welding most of the time at 3/4 throttle or so, then I have some more so I can floor it to get the puddle started then back off as i go along the joint. High frequency and the pedal are nice don't get me wrong but there are tons of guys who make X-ray welds with a gas valve scratch start torch every day

 

[Furu]

That is tough. Have you tried going half way, stopping, then starting on the other side, meeting in the middle? Restarting on the other side lets the part cool, so you won't be too hot on the edge.

Yes I do that when I remember; but sometimes, no, frequently I forget and weld to the end. Need to build a habit pattern so I always do that.

 

[FredH]

Hmm , Most here are better than Me . I can't even use Mig wire to Mig Weld . Have Good Welder but operator is ??? . :2cents:


Fred H.

 

[muddstopper]

Hmm , Most here are better than Me . I can't even use Mig wire to Mig Weld . Have Good Welder but operator is ??? . :2cents:


Fred H.

You are not alone. I try and buy the best equipment I can afford, and that does help, but nothing makes up for operator error.

 

[Big Barn]

Hmm , Most here are better than Me . I can't even use Mig wire to Mig Weld . Have Good Welder but operator is ??? . :2cents: Fred H.

You are not alone. I try and buy the best equipment I can afford, and that does help, but nothing makes up for operator error.

FredH and mudstopper, you'll have to move over to let me join your club.

Terry

 

[Reverser]

I like having it set so I'm welding most of the time at 3/4 throttle or so, then I have some more so I can floor it to get the puddle started then back off as i go along the joint. High frequency and the pedal are nice..........

My goodness, I gotta learn tig!!
You guys make it sound like it's as much fun as driving a sports car. :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

My goodness, I gotta learn tig!!
You guys make it sound like it's as much fun as driving a sports car. :laughing:

It is. But like learning to drive a sports car, you may crash and burn at first. Remember keep a tight arc, so tungsten close to puddle, but never in it, remember a rhythm for move, dip, move, dip. The experts make it all look so easy.. it is not easy, but your are in control of everything, so if the results are not what you wanted, it is your fault!

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

My goodness, I gotta learn tig!!
You guys make it sound like it's as much fun as driving a sports car. :laughing:

Maybe not fun exactly, but certainly interesting and useful

After the first 100 hours of practice it gets a lot easier.
Not cheap to learn when figuring filler and scrap for stainless, aluminum, and steel - plus argon - but it pays for itself pretty quickly when work comes in that you previously couldn't do.

 

[Reverser]

It is. But like learning to drive a sports car, you may crash and burn at first.

I'm sure I'd do plenty of that. I'm so shaky any more that I would probably be all over the place.

Tig reminds me of the old time O/A welding and twin carbon arc welding I learned in high school, back in the middle ages. Only much more detailed and refined.

 

[muddstopper]

I remember when I first got my machine, a buddy said, Now I have someone to send all my aluminum welding to. Uh, I dont think so, and one look at my chicken doo and the customers would be running toward the door anyway. LOL

I'm sure I'd do plenty of that. I'm so shaky any more that I would probably be all over the place.

Tig reminds me of the old time O/A welding and twin carbon arc welding I learned in high school, back in the middle ages. Only much more detailed and refined.

I am another candidate for the shaky club. I am fine for the first couple of min. but If I try and push it I cant keep the arc on the line or the stick in the puddle. I have to stop and regroup. The more i try to do, the less I am able to do.

 

[Reverser]

Maybe not fun exactly, but certainly interesting and useful

After the first 100 hours of practice it gets a lot easier.
Not cheap to learn when figuring filler and scrap for stainless, aluminum, and steel - plus argon - but it pays for itself pretty quickly when work comes in that you previously couldn't do.

Dave, I would never get as good as you pro's. :thumbsup:
But for me it would be a challenge to an old man that doesn't have anything better to do.

 

[Furu]

I am fine for the first couple of min. but If I try and push it I cant keep the arc on the line or the stick in the puddle. I have to stop and regroup. The more i try to do, the less I am able to do.

Not knowing your age but presbyopia creeps up on all of us. Some earlier than others but nearly all get it. First it takes more light to read then glasses, then stronger readers etc.

My point is if you are having trouble keeping the arc on the line is it shaky hands or eyesight?
I found the 1.25 diopters that I was using for reading and for stick welding were woefully inadequate with Tig. Because of the closeness to the weld with Tig (at least the way I was taught) I am in much closer and I had problems with the weaker lens. I switched to 2.00 diopters and WOW I could see again. I still use 1.25's for stick but change over to 2.00's for Tig.
Something to consider. Go to the local store and try the cheaters at reading distance/stick distance then try them at Tig distance. Then try a higher lens the same way.

 

[muddstopper]

I actually use 1.75 cheaters in my hood and have considered stepping up to 2.00. The 1.75 is the same as my prescription eyeglasses and was what my eye doctor recommended. I can usually see the line or crack, its the dancing all around it I cant control. I usually use 2 hands for stick welding. When mig welding, I almost have to rest my hand or arm on something. For tigging, I have to rest my fingers on the weld piece and slide along as I weld, and we know how hot that can get in a short time. I am going to order a couple of tig fingers to help with the sliding and getting to hot.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

Dave, I would never get as good as you pro's. :thumbsup:
But for me it would be a challenge to an old man that doesn't have anything better to do.

I think you'll find it an interesting diversion - my son said he would dream about watching the arc while sleeping after practicing tig aluminum

 

[Big Barn]

I think you'll find it an interesting diversion - my son said he would dream about watching the arc while sleeping after practicing tig aluminum

Terry

 

[WM75Guy]

Not knowing your age but presbyopia creeps up on all of us. Some earlier than others but nearly all get it. First it takes more light to read then glasses, then stronger readers etc.

My point is if you are having trouble keeping the arc on the line is it shaky hands or eyesight?
I found the 1.25 diopters that I was using for reading and for stick welding were woefully inadequate with Tig. Because of the closeness to the weld with Tig (at least the way I was taught) I am in much closer and I had problems with the weaker lens. I switched to 2.00 diopters and WOW I could see again. I still use 1.25's for stick but change over to 2.00's for Tig.
Something to consider. Go to the local store and try the cheaters at reading distance/stick distance then try them at Tig distance. Then try a higher lens the same way.

Prescription reading glasses are measured at 14" from your eyes. The further away the lower the number you need. I measure 2.50 at 14" but use 2.00 for computer work at about 18".

 

[dragoneggs]

I like to use left over mig wire twisted together, feeds through my hand really nicely

That is smart! This is why I read so much here I guess... for gems like this.

 

[dragoneggs]

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Terry

Good one!