Used hydralic fluid and diesel for trailer deck?

[paulsharvey]

I know there have been 500 threads about treating trailer decks already. Most seem to be about useful motor oil; either straight or cut with kerosene, ATF, or diesel. I've got about 5 gal of hydralic fluid sitting in a drain pan, and was just thinking about rolling it on trailer deck, maybe with about a gal of diesel to thin it out. My only concern is would hydralic stay slick on the wood deck?

Really the best wood treatment I've ever really seen is the diesel bucket on a paver you clean shovels in. The broken down AC and diesel do a great job on shovel handles.

 

[oosik]

Just a guess but most any petroleum product will make a wood deck slicker. I've applied linseed oil on my trailer deck. Get it boiling hot - apply with a roller. It really soaked in. But it did make the deck slicker.

 

[rScotty]

Use boiled linseed oil. You can cut it with mineral spirits or citrus oil. Boiled linseed oil will be tacky for a month but eventually it will cure to a hardened surface. Sun helps, and there are other tricks to make boiled linseed oil cure faster. That is the most common cheap finish on old wood decks. If you buy the boiled kind of linseed oil you can put it on at any temperature. Do not buy unboiled type, boiling is a controlled process.

That is much better than motor oil or hydrauic oil which stays messy forever and never cures.
As for what to do with the old oil, I've heard that places that sell it are required to dispose of the used oil.
Around here, some do and some don't.

rScotty

 

[big bubba]

if using linseed take extra precaution to handle used oil soaked rags, rollers, etc properly. they go through a post use heating & can spontaneously catch fire in certain conditions. happened to me once, glad i caught the smoldering rags in time in the garage.

also as a footnote (others may have different results). being organic base, i've had wood products such as screen doors, etc, turn black in 6 months from i guess fungal or bacterial growth. may not make a diff in your application, regards

 

[nyone]

if using linseed take extra precaution to handle used oil soaked rags, rollers, etc properly. they go through a post use heating & can spontaneously catch fire in certain conditions. happened to me once, glad i caught the smoldering rags in time in the garage.

also as a footnote (others may have different results). being organic base, i've had wood products such as screen doors, etc, turn black in 6 months from i guess fungal or bacterial growth. may not make a diff in your application, regards

Linseed oil is a prety crappy exterior wood Preservative. It allows mold and fungus to grow. If those can grow you know water is soaking into the wood.

 

[big bubba]

that's why i stopped using for exterior use. even interior, it will darken over the years

 

[hube2]

I dump all of my used oil, engine, hydro, whatever, into the same jugs. I use the oil straight without mixing with anything on my trailer, snow fences, and anything else made of wood that won't be coming in the house. I coat the trailer every year. It is slick until dry. It will be slick when it rains. But it is not slick enough when dry to cause any issue and it generally does not come off on anything. I usually do it when I know there will be 2 or 3 nice, warm, sunny days to let it set.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

I know there have been 500 threads about treating trailer decks already. Most seem to be about useful motor oil; either straight or cut with kerosene, ATF, or diesel. I've got about 5 gal of hydralic fluid sitting in a drain pan, and was just thinking about rolling it on trailer deck, maybe with about a gal of diesel to thin it out. My only concern is would hydralic stay slick on the wood deck?

Really the best wood treatment I've ever really seen is the diesel bucket on a paver you clean shovels in. The broken down AC and diesel do a great job on shovel handles.

I use motor oil or used hydraulic fluid whatever I have an abundance of at the time but I try to cut it with an equal amount of diesel fuel. I try to apply it on a good hot day ( which where you and I are there is no shortage ) I use a paint roller on a stick with a roller screen in a 5 gallon bucket and it soaks in just fine, a mop will work to and a lot faster but IMO you waste an awful lot and definitely not as environmentally friendly.

 

[Snobdds]

Use it, It doesn't make it slicker after it dries, it dry.

 

[paulsharvey]

The trailer is only like 3 or 4 (maybe 5 at this point) years old, and between sun and rain, the 'non ground contact' pressure treated wood is looking worse for the wear. I'm not trying to get 50 years from the deck, but don't want to replace deck every 8 years either...

So, yeah, I figure I'll cut with diesel and roll.

 

[nyone]

Brushing is really best for any exterior wood application. It allows you to work the stain/oil into the cracks in the wood and fill them up. Cracks is also where water can sit and rot will be the first to start.

 

[hube2]

Brushing is really best for any exterior wood application. It allows you to work the stain/oil into the cracks in the wood and fill them up. Cracks is also where water can sit and rot will be the first to start.

I personally prefer using a brush as well. Also lets me get the edges of the plywood which is more important.

 

[the old grind]

Just oiled the sideboards (deck plank wood) and plywood deck of my 6'x10' ramp-gate trailer. Then I did my 16' car/CUT hauler's 2x10 treated deck. Plastic liner in a metal rolling pan and straight hydro from the last change. I used a thick nap roller with long handle and a 2" brush to easily cover all areas and get into the corners/edges where the roller wouldn't go.

It was a far bigger job to powerwash all the wood days before to prep.

Two weeks later I'd like to oil the decks again. Both trailers are 20 years old and have never had such treatment. They aren't the least bit slippery when dry, and look almost new. The KISS principle is working for me and sweeping leaves seeds and twigs that kind of stick after a rain are way more easily swept off.

 

[paulsharvey]

I use motor oil or used hydraulic fluid whatever I have an abundance of at the time but I try to cut it with an equal amount of diesel fuel. I try to apply it on a good hot day ( which where you and I are there is no shortage ) I use a paint roller on a stick with a roller screen in a 5 gallon bucket and it soaks in just fine, a mop will work to and a lot faster but IMO you waste an awful lot and definitely not as environmentally friendly.

It was 95 today; and we haven't had measurable rain in a month; dang grass is so crunchy it sounds like walking on rice crispies.

 

[319Quahog]

I used BLO and mineral spirits a couple years back. A couple of coats.

At Lowes over by the cans of asphalt sealcoating stuff, they should have some large brushes that you can screw on the end of a broomstick. It's a nice back saver.

Might do it again this year if it ever stops raining.

Neither BLO or waste oil has UV protection so you'll still have some issues down the road.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

It was 95 today; and we haven't had measurable rain in a month; dang grass is so crunchy it sounds like walking on rice crispies.

Facts.

 

[nyone]

Neither BLO or waste oil has UV protection so you'll still have some issues down the road

UV protection comes from a darker stain so used motor oil would have more UV protection than linseed oil.