Two story Shop on steep grade - Help me Design/Build it!!!

[ruffdog]

I would look into pouring concrete for each of the short ends to support 10" x 40' flex-core slabs. Build it to last.

 

[AllByteNoBark]

I would think that would not be a problem. With the Speedfloor we were spanning 28 feet on one stall and 26 on the other two. Believe the beams were 16" deep. If you use wood you just need to get them to design it for your specs. Probably be deeper than 16" with wood.

 

[CADplans]

My 45X57 shed is built on an incline,,
We excavated a flat spot, then the first thing done was pour a 65 foot long retaining wall.
the wall is on the left side in this pic.

For scale, that rollup door is 18 feet wide, and 11 feet high.

My retaining wall is 8 inch concrete sitting on a footer that extends down below the frost line.
I poured the concrete floor in 1999,, so, it has been there a while,,,

 

[duffer]

I do not want any interior posts. Can I make it work with a 25ft span?

That might be a tall order, since you plan on driving a tractor onto the upper floor. I suspect you will need 2-3 steel beams between floors to carry the load. There is a structural concrete form that you can use to carry the load and some of the span (hence the steel beams). With all the potential heavy equipment, wood supply, tools, etc, you be creating quite a load on the upper floor.

Talk to you lumber supplier (don't use the big box stores for framing. you'll get better quality and price at a lumber yard) about your flooring needs and potential load. They have access to people who can do the engineering load calculations for you, and recommend a good solution.

Are you planning on block foundation walls, or poured concrete walls below grade? You might want to consider a thicker wall to help carry the load from the upper floor as well.

For your roof, I like the metal idea, but there is now a synthetic material, looks like metal, but is made from PVC or something similar and obviously won't rust. They used it on a local gov't building near me. I thought it was metal when first saw it. Again, check with your lumber supplier for more info.

Are you going to put a separate electric meter on the building? If so, the power company might run the power cable for you from the transformer to the meter for free. What about HVAC? Wouldn't think you would need much in WA state. Just enough to take the chill off.

Hope you plan on putting in plumbing. Would hate to walk that hill every time I needed to wash my hands, or take a wizz.
I put a urinal in my workshop. Most used fixture ever!

 

[BukitCase]

+10 on plumbing

Floor spans - check page 18 on this
https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/application/files/6515/4352/0384/TJ-4500.pdf

Does require 20" tall joists; also does NOT show the heavier floor material... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Original plan was not to drive heavy vehicles on upper floor. It is not a requirement for me. Heaviest equipment and any vehicles such as my tractor would be on the lower slab floor.

I plan to pour the foundation. Since I am going over 8ft, the thickness will need to be 10in... at least until I step it down along the slope.

The service power is very close... less than 20ft from the shop at that corner of the property. Utility location service came out yesterday and marked. The good news is the electricity to the main house runs parallel between the existing paved driveway and the south foundation wall. There is also a spare meter box next to the transformer. I do plan to set it as separate service. See photo.



I do want water... at least a sink on each floor but it will be difficult to tie into the existing septic system. Don't have a plan for this yet. I am used to relieving myself outside... actually I find it liberating.

Heat is a definite requirement and will likely go with either a propane ceiling mounted furnace on each floor or do it right and install one big one on the lower floor and run all the ducting for both floors in the space between.

I do have a lot to learn with respect all the new building material options and construction techniques for residential building. One reason I thought I would start this thread and get some ideas from the gang.

 

[BukitCase]

No matter WHAT heating you use, if it uses a combustible gas make sure it's a heat exchanger type - gas fired heaters produce about as much WATER as they use fuel. External chimney and air inlets = GOBS less RUST to deal with... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Here are a few more pics to give you an idea of what I am dealing with as far as slope and driveway access. First pic is looking west at the stand of trees, most will be cleared. Second and third pics show the access from the paved driveway. Much of the excavation will be fill to build up pad in front of lower garage door. I will likely have to access the lower garage by backing down the sloped gravel driveway and making a 'Y' maneuver to pull forward into the shop... or drive forward down gravel driveway and then back into the shop. This is because the turn radius will be too tight and slope too steep.

 

[GLyford]

As for running I-joists near or almost at grade, you can run them in hangers, like this:

Roll the Joists Ep.40 - YouTube

 

[Tomtint]

My very first shop was built into a slope. I didn't build it ..just rented it. But it was old and had a significant problem with hydrostatic pressure from the hill and runoff behind it. If I were to do a walkout type garage like it. I would spend significant time designing it to eliminate that type of problem.