Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap

/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #41  
As long as the engine is level and it runs out, you may have put a little too much in. I eliminated the throttle control and just use the engine mounted one.-fw
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #42  
The only other issue I noticed was that my drive belt seems loose... can't seem to tighten. That may have been a issue before, well, this is a new "horse" so I hadn't used it much. The engine is smooth, and strong, love it!
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #43  
I may end up moving the engine to my 81 model, I used that tiller for many many years! Kept the fluids full, the only thing MIA would be the switch to disengage the tines. That is kinda nice.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Yes, I'm the original owner. On the tap size I simply bought a grade5 5/16-24 bolt at HD and used it instead of the 3/8 on the Tecumseh.-fw

Yep, thats what I did too.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #45  
Has anyone had experience changing the small seal on the transmission eccentric at the rear of the tiller. It looks like you could drain the 90wt and pull the seal out with a pick and tap in the new one. I have the new one and its rubber with a spring seal.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #46  
and the throttle control attachment of course is backwards. Reckon I don't really need that, how did you, or anyone else handle that?
They make throttle cables that go the other way (I bought one on accident once). I would get another cable that goes the right way.


Aaron Z
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #47  
Has anyone had experience changing the small seal on the transmission eccentric at the rear of the tiller. It looks like you could drain the 90wt and pull the seal out with a pick and tap in the new one. I have the new one and its rubber with a spring seal.

I've done this a couple times. Easy as pie and and it took an old screwdriver and a hammer.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #49  
I have that engine on a 3" water pump. This spring it would only run a few hits, then quit. Long story, short, the crappy "Torch" spark plug was the culprit. You might want to install an NGK BP6ES proactively. I just bought one for $2.88 on eBay including shipping.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #50  
My predator is on the way, I have a thread going called should I replace the hh60. I finally had enough messing around with it. Looking forward to powerful tilling soon. Should be completed over holiday weekend.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #51  
All horse tillers have one belt you move the belt too change speeds on tiller
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #52  
All horse tillers have one belt you move the belt too change speeds on tiller

Even the 1st models? There is another thread out there where I brought this up because I thought the same. Cheeto (the OP) indicated he had two belts installed at the same time.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #53  
Yes, I have two belts installed. I dont see the purpose in it. I did do the predator swap. Besides a leaking tank, I am having a engine pulley problem. When I tighten my new pulley mounting bolt to the engine, it tightens the pulley to the base of the engine housing. It causes rubbing, and hard starts. Rope does not want to pull..... You maybe laughing but how in the heck do I secure the engine pulley without smashing it against the motor?
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #54  
Ok. I am sitting here thinking do I just need a longer pulley mounting bolt? One that allows the pulley to "wander" down the engine shaft.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #55  
There should be shims to adjust the pulley spacing from the engine. I just changed engines on mine and had to add some.

Parts 9 and 9A in this diagram:

TroyShims.jpg

Bruce
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #56  
Thanks got it shimmed correctly today.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #57  
Even the 1st models? There is another thread out there where I brought this up because I thought the same. Cheeto (the OP) indicated he had two belts installed at the same time.

The Horse I tillers had two drive belts which are both installed at the same time. All Horse II and later tillers use one drive belt that is switched between the grooves to change the drive ratio. If both grooves on the pulley are the same size, you need two drive belts. If the pulley has stepped grooves (the outer groove is smaller than the inner groove), you have a one belt drive system.
Tim
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #58  
The Horse I tillers had two drive belts which are both installed at the same time. All Horse II and later tillers use one drive belt that is switched between the grooves to change the drive ratio. If both grooves on the pulley are the same size, you need two drive belts. If the pulley has stepped grooves (the outer groove is smaller than the inner groove), you have a one belt drive system.
Tim

Makes sense now.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #59  
I just ordered one from Harbor Freight,it's a 6.5HP Predator and the sku # was 69727,there was good reviews on that one,they sell another 6.5 but the reviews were mixed on that one.It should be here tomorrow and hopefully get it installed by the weekend.I will post the results.
 
/ Troy-Bilt Horse engine swap #60  
what model honda did u use would the bump guard not fit any modifications have to be made to the tiller we have a horse like yours with bad engine
 

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