Tree snipper

[Rch]

Here is a picture of an almost finished tree snipper which is a knock-off of a tree snipper
I'll post interim photos as I figue how to post pics /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Rch]

Pic # 2

 

[Rch]

On the last pic notice the flat bar on the moveable cutter. It goes behind the snipper and sticks up as a flag that tells me where the jaws are (open or shut). You'll notice a vertical rod welded on the top cross member. That lines up with the stationary cutting bar. The flag moves relative to the rod,since I can't see the snipper from the seat The rod lines up the opening of the snips. Here is what I see from the tractor seat when the snips are open.

 

[Rch]

Here is what I see from the seat when the jaws are closed /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Rch]

I had to weld a stop so that the whole thing wouldn't go(dump) as far as the bucket. It would pull the hydraulic hoses apart. It's the piece welded on just below lower pin.

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Good job, Rch. Are there any serrations on the stationary blade, something to grip the trunk with? What size tree do you think you can snip?

 

[Rch]

This is the hydraulic coupling in its bracket that automatically disconnects if the hoses are pulled. The bracket holds the knurled sleeve on the female part of the coupling but the whole coupling is free to slide forward and pulling the hoses pulls the whole coupling forward thus pulling the knurled sleeve back and the male couplings pop out.

 

[Rch]

Here is the snipper part before the mounting and hydaulics.

Capbob; there are no serrations. the finished version has a piece on the cutting bar that is slanted to push the tree away from the hydaulic cylinder. So far I've only cut a 4'' red pine without a grunt /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
One mistake you can see it this pic; I had to cut 3-4" off the left side and weld it on the right side to have enough room to fit thr cylinder. As it was I had to get a cylinder with the mounting ends tight to the cylinder to fit it in. That bottom main tubing that the snip pivot on is 44". The end of the FEL is 36" apart. I should of moved the stationary cutter to the left 4 to 6" and/or made the main tube longer.

 

[Rch]

I spent a day and 1/2 making these two brackets to mount the hydraulic spool near and handy to the FEL joy stick. One bracket mounts to the transmission case on a brace that holds the plastic shroud around the shifting links (it's a Ford 1910) The other bracket come off the joy stick pedestal. The throttle linkage had to be worked around-see 2nd pic
I've got $220 of steel. $380 of hydraulics(the cylinder was $200 but I got the spool for $36) Dont ask what my time is worth. I had a neigbor who was a very big help. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Rch]

Another view of spool mounting.

 

[Rch]

ViseGrips show throttle linkage that was in the way /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Rch]

View of spool from the seat

 

[markie61]

Very cool /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif, yet somehow sinister..... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gifIf I were a tree and saw that thing coming towards me, I'd just lay down out of fear! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Well done!
Mark

 

[gerard]

outstanding job RCH!! My hats off /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Bet you went through an awful lot of wire or rod welding up that little puppy!!!! My question is on the added spool - Couldn't you have used the curl circuit to control the snippers and have saved adding another control spool? Or did you want to be able to control the curl of the snipper too? Also since you added another spool valve where did you tap in to the flow?

 

[beenthere]

Great machine, and we're anxious to see some action on some trees. What size trees do you have to remove? All pine? I suspect you can even grab the dropped tree with the snips and pile them up for burning? Or tip the snipper and chop the tree into firewood lengths (Hmmm? maybe even stack the firewood). /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Rch]

Gerard, I kept the curl function so that I can lay it flat on the ground even if there is some contour. Also I plan to add a rear hydraulic outlet using a divider valve on this new spool for a chipper with a hydraulic feed. Sort of 'nip and chip' /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The outlet flow from the FEL spools goes to the in side of the new spool and the outflow goes to where the FEL outflow went i e, in series.

 

[Rch]

Beenthere, I've planted 60,000 trees over 16 years. All kinds, deciduous and conifers. I over planted but they all survive some places, all die other places. If allowed to grow tall when crowded, anyone tree has a small root system and if thinned out then, the wind gets down in them and topples all of them.
I figue I have several thousand to nip off anywhere from 1" to 4-5 ". I started using a chainsaw. Let me tell you all that kneeling and stooping got old fast /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Also the chain was dull after one tree since I don't want stumps sticking up. Some stumps like ash I'll have to paint with Round-Up. I was thinking of adding an electric run sprayer to give a stump a shot but I'm worried about dragging Round-Up around on the snipper /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[orb]

I thought Round-Up only worked if you sprayed it on the leaves of the plant, absorbed through the stomata pores preventing the plant from processing lycine? Does it work if you spray it on freshly cut stumps?

 

[Rch]

I think so, if stump is fresh and it can absorb it. Any experience out there? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[kyoders]

It's supposed to work. Drill some holes in the stump, then pour full-strength into the holes. If you have the pre-diluted stuff, I'm not sure you can get enough into it to do the job.

Kevin