trailering your utility tractors

[Joel/ak]

Our 1705 gets 4 straps. Can't remember the load limit but the 3"ers.

Now the mini gets chains

Furthest we pull from the property, we're we keep everything is maybe 20 miles. All back roads

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Towing my B-2301 I used one chain on the back, through a draw bar clevis. Two ratchet straps on the front, never had an issue.

 

[walnutman]

I use these hook chains. Really easy to install.

VEVOR V Bridle Chain, 5/16 in x 2 ft Tow Chain Bridle, Grade 80 V-Bridle Transport Chain, 9260 Lbs Break Strength with TJ Hooks & Grab Hooks, Heavy Duty Pear Link Connector and Chain Shorteners | VEVOR US

Discover VEVOR V Bridle Chain, 5/16 in x 2 ft Tow Chain Bridle, Grade 80 V-Bridle Transport Chain, 9260 Lbs Break Strength with TJ Hooks & Grab Hooks, Heavy Duty Pear Link Connector and Chain Shorteners, Excellent Rated Capacity and Thoughtful Design at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.

www.vevor.com

 

[kenbgbill]

Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?

Up until last year, I used heavy duty 3” nylon strap with about 2’ of chain on each end. This worked fine until I started hauling it on lengthy trips (1200 miles). I noticed about 500 miles in the the nylon had rubbed a break in one leg.

So now I have chains in front where thing can run against metal with ratchet connectors and still using nylon in rear until they meet their end life.

Note, I have a Kubota BX 25DLB and box blade which weighs around 2500-3000 lbs all together.

 

[CoyPatton]

While you may not be hauling commercially and thus not be required to meet DOT requires, if you check with your insurance, it would not surprise me if they require DOT standards to cover you in case of an accident.
Check out DOT requirements for yourself, but several have summarized them—4 chains/straps for the tractor and and additional chain/strap for each implement/attachment.
My summary but there is more to DOT requirements that you need to research.

 

[Paystar]

Think I'll be switching back to chains and binders. Don't buy these Erickson brand:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/2-in-x-15-ft-5000-lb-ratchet-tie-down-strap/product/PA0008204232

I used them with my Ford 3000. Four of those, plus same brand over-the-wheel straps.
Tractor has never moved in my trailer, but no matter how tight I crank them down, when I get to where I'm going they are all flopping in the wind. And they tear through very easy compared to other brands I have used if they rub on anything.

 

[Ed27]

Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?

Kubota M7060HD12 with bushhog. Chain and binder on all four corners and ratchet strap over the bushhog.

 

[prairiegirl]

Here's another question do you use chains and lever binders or heavy ratchet straps to hold down your tractor on the trailer? Also do you use 2 in the front and rear or just 2?

Apart from what is safe, find out what the local highway police wants. If it cannot fall off but they don't like it you still get a big fine.
Straps have to have the load rating printed on them. (chains only have to look sturdy I guess )

 

[gumshu]

Ratchet straps with axel straps. I wrap an axel strap around each axel on the Kubota L4802 or JD 2025R. It’s quick and easy.

 

[Paystar]

Apart from what is safe, find out what the local highway police wants. If it cannot fall off but they don't like it you still get a big fine.
Straps have to have the load rating printed on them. (chains only have to look sturdy I guess )

In Canada you will be fined if your chains and binders do not have the working load limit clearly stamped on them. All securement devices must have the WLL clearly visible.

 

[Fastowl]

A lot of companies have banned the use of lever binders in their business due to the potential that they can 'pop' open. While I still have my old lever binders, I switched to ratchet style years ago after I had a number of instances where they did come loose.

 

[SwingOak]

I use chains, and sometimes straps when it makes sense. I have one spring tensioned chain binder that works great, wish I could find more of them.

Chains are best.

 

[CliffordK]

I don't haul the old Ford much. I was using chains, but may change to ratchet straps, or a combination of the two. Overall, it isn't that heavy, and perhaps even lighter than hauling a pickup.

My main attachments go forward or back, and I like to have 2 independent attachments for any item going in each direction (weaving a single strap back and forth doesn't count). That way, if a single attachment (strap/chain) is lost, I will still have something securing the load.

My flatbed often looks like it was attacked by Spiderman!!!

I.E. A tractor would get about 4 straps or chains.

 

[Rhorn4400]

I am not a fan of single axle trailers no matter the load. Two axles offer stability and can have brakes on one or both axles. Out of control trailer can put you in the ditch in a hurry.

 

[weeder]

Well I talked to the local law enforcement here and they recommended at least 2 straps or chains in the rear as long as they were strong enough or weight limitations I should say. Then at least 1 chain or strap in the front with the same weight limits on it. So I am going to mock it up on the trailer and give it a test drive sometime this week. I only have to go 10 miles to my other property to do some clean-up.

 

[olenjohn]

As Dave M said -- depends on what you are hauling! My main criteria is to ensure that that the momentum of that object does not bring it forward on the trailer and into me and the truck. If that is an 800 lb small Kubota (on a 14ft trailer with strong perimeter rails going 12 miles away) a couple of straps is sufficient. If it is the 9,000 lb MF 2660 with 1000 lb bucket on the loader and a 1460 lb 7ft bush hog on it that takes the multiple 3/8" chains and not the 5/16" lighter ones. And of course proportional grades in between for less heavy loads.
I treat stopping forward motion in a potential collision as the #1 driver. Second is keeping the tires under significant force downward onto the trailer bed where brakes and gears help, and Third is prevention of other motion such as that caused by steep hills, rear end collisions, side hits, deep unforeseen potholes, etc.

How does 12 miles make a difference? What if it’s 13 miles? Do you tie it down differently for 12 vs 13? Now matter if it’s 1 mile or 1000 miles the driver is totally responsible to assure the load will not shift. Way too many catastrophes because “ I was only going 5 miles”. I know of a skid steer that was being moved less than 2 miles on a trailer. Made it 300 yards down the highway and dumped it Into the oncoming lane of traffic. Another incident where the guy was repositioning a trailer less than 20 feet. It was loaded with a JohnDeere tractor. Didn’t secure it properly and sent it off the trailer and it rolled out into the roadway. Don’t be an idiot. Tie it down in every direction it could possibly move.

 

[JWR]

A lot of companies have banned the use of lever binders in their business due to the potential that they can 'pop' open. While I still have my old lever binders, I switched to ratchet style years ago after I had a number of instances where they did come loose.

I have been told (by several who think they know) that lever type binders are not legal in many Eastern states and you can be ticketed for using them. I do notice many stores are phasing out and no longer carry lever type; only carry ratchet type. My view is that my own engineering judgement takes precedence over regulations and speculation and is what keeps ME SAFE. To heck with the regulators and inspectors. Since I do not do commercial hauling (and have never in 30 plus years ever been pulled over for some hauling violation) I can afford it if I get pulled over. Amortize it over 31 years. As for lever type binders, I use them if I run out of the others on a given load. BUT I always wrap the levers around the binder body with a good tight bungy cord so they cannot pop loose or get loose due to lack of tension. Makes them just as safe as the ratchet types. Easy fix. I posted my tie down criteria and habits in a previous post...

 

[Ken45101]

I have been told (by several who think they know) that lever type binders are not legal in many Eastern states and you can be ticketed for using them. I do notice many stores are phasing out and no longer carry lever type; only carry ratchet type. My view is that my own engineering judgement takes precedence over regulations and speculation and is what keeps ME SAFE. To heck with the regulators and inspectors. Since I do not do commercial hauling (and have never in 30 plus years ever been pulled over for some hauling violation) I can afford it if I get pulled over. Amortize it over 31 years. As for lever type binders, I use them if I run out of the others on a given load. BUT I always wrap the levers around the binder body with a good tight bungy cord so they cannot pop loose or get loose due to lack of tension. Makes them just as safe as the ratchet types. Easy fix. I posted my tie down criteria and habits in a previous post...

I have heard that the lever style binders are no longer legal (federally) for commercial carriers. Federal regs do not apply to non commercial carriers although some states may use them as guides.

 

[JWR]

Ken -- I am confused about your post #38 -- no longer legal for commercial carriers but regs do not apply to commercial carriers ?? Contradiction.

 

[Ken45101]

Ken -- I am confused about your post #38 -- no longer legal for commercial carriers but regs do not apply to commercial carriers ?? Contradiction.

Sorry, my typing is terrible any more. I caught the other ten typos, missed that one. Corrected: does not apply to NON commercial carriers.

Thanks for the catch.