newbury
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Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomeneded Tie-Downs
- Thread starter Porchfan
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- kubota b2650
Fallon
Super Member
If you can get a strap to hold your tractor down & the strap isn't rubbing on anything & hooked solidly to the tractor & to the trailer, more power to you. You should be safe. I probably could pull it off & avoid chewing through the rest of my strap, but I figured chain will be easier & safer unless I mount some extra D rings or something to the the tractor.
AStanton
Platinum Member
Egon
Epic Contributor
Unfortunetly I've not found a method to invert them. I can edit and invert but still send out the Aussie version. One should say computer illiterate.
Rocky Hoffler
Platinum Member
If you like chains or if you like straps its your option but in any case I have found by installing weld on d rings a plus with either. gives a secure place to hook up chains or straps without scratching equipment weld one on each side of bucket then paint it weld one on each side of FEL frame and weld one on each side of quick hitch or any place else that you can see where equipment needs to be bound. I purchase 1/2 inch D rings from local trailer supply less than 4 dollars a piece. gives options as to bind equip as how its position on trailer.
Fallon
Super Member
My straps were 10k or 15k lbs rated holding down a under 4k lbs tractor. The issue isn't the weight. The issue is metal corners starting to cut through the straps. You can see the strap going over the bumper/brush guard above. At both corners where the strap went over the corner it cut & frayed a significant amount. Those corners were not sharp in the slightest either, I couldn't cut my self on the unless I punched them or something. Welding on D-rings so the strap runs from the tractor to the trailer & can't chafe on anything would work just fine I expect, but I went with the flexibility of chain instead.
AStanton
Platinum Member
With a strap, you can at least see that it is going bad when it is frayed. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.
I walked by a flat bed car trailer today. I noticed that they had more straps used for holding than chains. My Kubota dealer also uses a trusty nylon strap in the yard for loading tractor implements and loaded tires.
I'm just sayin.
I walked by a flat bed car trailer today. I noticed that they had more straps used for holding than chains. My Kubota dealer also uses a trusty nylon strap in the yard for loading tractor implements and loaded tires.
I'm just sayin.
OP
Porchfan
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I added two bolt-on d-rings to the frame of the tractor and ran my front chain through each. The chain doesn't hit or rub against anything but the d-ring.
I suspect I should strap down the loader too? On the back I looped my chain around the box blade from the back to the front. This looks like it'll work. I may add a ring to the hitch bar later.
I suspect I should strap down the loader too? On the back I looped my chain around the box blade from the back to the front. This looks like it'll work. I may add a ring to the hitch bar later.
zoltanthegypsy
Gold Member
I'm not going argue chains or straps - I'm a rookie.
Personally I use 4 x 2" ratchet straps when trailering my BX. 2" reinforced water hose for chafing gear where it has to pass over a metal edge.
Where I need an additional mount point on the BX or the GR or anything else, I use a very smooth clevis-pin shackle. There are plenty of frame holes available - no welding required.
Z.
Personally I use 4 x 2" ratchet straps when trailering my BX. 2" reinforced water hose for chafing gear where it has to pass over a metal edge.
Where I need an additional mount point on the BX or the GR or anything else, I use a very smooth clevis-pin shackle. There are plenty of frame holes available - no welding required.
Z.
Fallon
Super Member
From what I understand according to DOT regs, you need to strap down the loader too. Probably excessive, but easier than having a problem or a ticket.
With my bucket sitting over the tongue beam I just go over the center of the bucket & around the beam.
With my bucket sitting over the tongue beam I just go over the center of the bucket & around the beam.
ru499
Member
From my experience hauling equipment, I've found that binding your load to an "unsprung "point works alot better than tying down the equipment suspended by the tires. You can tighten a chain as tight as ever, but the tires will always flex over bumps. A FEL or BH will never flex and bounce. I've always used this method over the years and have had pretty good luck doing so.
Grouse09
Silver Member
PorchFan, wondering where you got the Bolt on D-rings and if drilling into the frame was required.
JWR
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I understand your post (I think...on second thought no I don't) but on most of our equipment moving trailers, both small utility trailers and larger equipment movers, the only thing really unsprung is the axles. The load has to be secured to the trailer (which is all 'sprung') and I cannot imagine trying to find a way (or a reason) to attach to the axles.
Last edited:
JWR
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Re: Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomended Tie-Downs
1) I feel I am protecting ME, my equipment and my liability. I actually do not give a rats butt what the DOT says. I care a lot more about me than they do. I do agree it is worth seeing what DOT says to learn from it. I have yet to meet the first police officer that is out to nitpick your tiedown. If it is solid and substantial looking you are VERY unlikely to hear grief from the police. If it looks really flimsy for the weight of the load, expect to hear about it. By the way, some people are all in a frenzy because"rules" exist that outlaw the old "over center" type chain tighteners and supposedly require lever and gear teeth type ratcheting chain tighteners. The guys using tractor trailers on big highways day in day out need to pay attention to that. You don't.
2) There is no need other than maybe convenience to add anything to your tractor. Run something solidly across your FEL and your 3pt hitch members and that is all you need.
3) The main object of tiedowns is to keep the load down on the trailer deck in all but the most severe collisions. Stories are endless. I once hit (went over) a 6" shelf like dropoff in a narrow country road due to a subterranean ground slip. I was towing a B2150 Kubota at the time on a junk trailer doing maybe 45 mph. One good solid chain across the tractor middle/transmission. In the rearview mirror i saw it go up a few inches and come back down on the bed, staying there until I got stopped. No damage. No problem.
4) My main concern with tiedowns (esp with larger tractor,etc) is the one in back that keeps the thing from coming into the cab with me when I hit something head on. That's where I use the heavy chain. In front I use whatever is handy and any good wide web nylon strap ratchet is fine (though I use a chain there too if it is the 10,000 lb tractor.)
5) Don't let anyone kid you. If the accident is bad enough, if you get hit or hit another vehicle at 70 mph head on or nearly so (or hit a tree) your load and your trailer are going all over ****. That is spelled h with 3 other letters for the censors benefit. Tiedowns will only help minimize the damage and again the main thing is slow down the load before it enters your cab.
6) In your particular case wide strap ratchets are adequate in my view. If you expect to be in high speed traffic for longer periods add a chain in back. One of the dilemmas with the type trailer you show is the side rails are about the only thing handy to tie to. The rails are not real strong, tend to provide hard edges with which to damage or defeat straps, and lack solid places to hook a chain. I have been wanting to weld good tie points onto my 12' utility trailer for that reason. My larger 21' Pequea equipment trailer has a welded rub rail the entire length of the trailer that stands out a couple of inches and provides super strong tie points for both straps and chains.
Nice looking equipment. Good luck.
This is a widely interesting topic with hundreds or thousands of opinions. I'll throw my viewpoint in.
1) I feel I am protecting ME, my equipment and my liability. I actually do not give a rats butt what the DOT says. I care a lot more about me than they do. I do agree it is worth seeing what DOT says to learn from it. I have yet to meet the first police officer that is out to nitpick your tiedown. If it is solid and substantial looking you are VERY unlikely to hear grief from the police. If it looks really flimsy for the weight of the load, expect to hear about it. By the way, some people are all in a frenzy because"rules" exist that outlaw the old "over center" type chain tighteners and supposedly require lever and gear teeth type ratcheting chain tighteners. The guys using tractor trailers on big highways day in day out need to pay attention to that. You don't.
2) There is no need other than maybe convenience to add anything to your tractor. Run something solidly across your FEL and your 3pt hitch members and that is all you need.
3) The main object of tiedowns is to keep the load down on the trailer deck in all but the most severe collisions. Stories are endless. I once hit (went over) a 6" shelf like dropoff in a narrow country road due to a subterranean ground slip. I was towing a B2150 Kubota at the time on a junk trailer doing maybe 45 mph. One good solid chain across the tractor middle/transmission. In the rearview mirror i saw it go up a few inches and come back down on the bed, staying there until I got stopped. No damage. No problem.
4) My main concern with tiedowns (esp with larger tractor,etc) is the one in back that keeps the thing from coming into the cab with me when I hit something head on. That's where I use the heavy chain. In front I use whatever is handy and any good wide web nylon strap ratchet is fine (though I use a chain there too if it is the 10,000 lb tractor.)
5) Don't let anyone kid you. If the accident is bad enough, if you get hit or hit another vehicle at 70 mph head on or nearly so (or hit a tree) your load and your trailer are going all over ****. That is spelled h with 3 other letters for the censors benefit. Tiedowns will only help minimize the damage and again the main thing is slow down the load before it enters your cab.
6) In your particular case wide strap ratchets are adequate in my view. If you expect to be in high speed traffic for longer periods add a chain in back. One of the dilemmas with the type trailer you show is the side rails are about the only thing handy to tie to. The rails are not real strong, tend to provide hard edges with which to damage or defeat straps, and lack solid places to hook a chain. I have been wanting to weld good tie points onto my 12' utility trailer for that reason. My larger 21' Pequea equipment trailer has a welded rub rail the entire length of the trailer that stands out a couple of inches and provides super strong tie points for both straps and chains.
Nice looking equipment. Good luck.
Juiced06GTO
Bronze Member
I work in the equipment rental industry and have a lot of experience hauling everything from 2k lb mini excavators to 60klb excavators and boom lifts. As much as I am not a fan of .gov telling me what to do, the rules for securing your load are there to keep the equipment secured in the event that tragedy happens. One of my drivers was involved in what could have been a horrific and life changing accident last year. He was hauling a 30klb boom lift and a 9klb skid steer on his tractor trailer, traveling down the road at about 40mph when a 16 yr old girl in the oncoming lane, with a 15 yr old and 14 yr old passenger, swerved out of her lane directly into his to avoid rear ending the vehicle that stopped short in front of her. He took evasive action, but still hit her splitting her car completely in half at the fire wall. His truck continued off the road, through an oak tree and came to a stop about a foot from going through a house. The impact to the tree launched the two fuel tanks off the truck and into the persons back yard, and split the trailer where it attaches to the tractor at the fifth wheel. During all of this the equipment that was secured to the trailer never moved. The girls in the car miraculously came away with a few breaks/bumps/bruises and concussions, my driver with a broken arm, but no one died. Had a 60' boom and skid steer come flying off the truck at over 40mph who knows what could have happened.
The point of my story is that you are responsible for your load when something goes wrong, whether you are a commercial driver or not. Because my driver took the time to do things right we were able to look at the parents of those girls and talk about the lessons they learned rather than making funeral arrangements.
This is something that people really should take more seriously. I'll get off my soap box, but this is something that hits pretty close to home after dealing with what happened to my driver.
The point of my story is that you are responsible for your load when something goes wrong, whether you are a commercial driver or not. Because my driver took the time to do things right we were able to look at the parents of those girls and talk about the lessons they learned rather than making funeral arrangements.
This is something that people really should take more seriously. I'll get off my soap box, but this is something that hits pretty close to home after dealing with what happened to my driver.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
I always use 4 chains and binders on 4 corners plus chain and binder on loader and same on backhoe. Can't understand trying to save a buck on tie down with possibility of bad accident injury insurance liability expensive truck tractor damage etc.
Henro
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This...^^^^
The only way to do it in my opinion. Note CHAINS...not straps...
It is not about what someone says to do, but all about what is best to do.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
Just priced six 5/16 grade 70 chains (10 ft) and six 5400 lb binders at Lowes. $200. Pocket change compared to the rigs TBN folk have. And easy to use. No reason I can see not to go for the best.
Fallon
Super Member
Re: Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomended Tie-Downs
I'd be fine with straps if you had a setup where they didn't touch anything other than the hooks at the end. If you had D-rings or what not on the front brush guard & a clear shot to the trailer tie-down point or something like that. Otherwise your likely to rub that strap in half.
I'd be fine with straps if you had a setup where they didn't touch anything other than the hooks at the end. If you had D-rings or what not on the front brush guard & a clear shot to the trailer tie-down point or something like that. Otherwise your likely to rub that strap in half.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
Hi Fallon, looking forward to your second generation ssqa mods! Oh and Merry Christmas, I have a moment free here before the family gets going.
When I was planning how to tow my backhoe from Virginia to California, I came across this old tbn thread on straps breaking.
I guess the way I see it is, if chain is cheap easy and strong, why use a strap (in this application).
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/53683-ratcheting-tie-downs-broke-transit.html
When I was planning how to tow my backhoe from Virginia to California, I came across this old tbn thread on straps breaking.
I guess the way I see it is, if chain is cheap easy and strong, why use a strap (in this application).
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/53683-ratcheting-tie-downs-broke-transit.html
