Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomeneded Tie-Downs

[Porchfan]

Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomended Tie-Downs

Just picked up a freshly built tandem 7000lb GVWR landscape trailer at the factory just south of us in Lexington, NC (Kaufman Trailers). I was wondering about tie-down chains / straps to use when transporting a compact tractor like the B2650 with loader and box blade shown? In the pic below, I don't have it tied down yet. It was the first time I put it the tractor on the trailer. Very easy to load and unload. If you all have any recommendations on how and with what to tie down a tractor of this type, fire away. I'd appreciate it.

 

[Tompet]

I have a similar tractor, but with a BH. What I did was buy two 20' 5/16 grade 70 tow chains from Lowes (best price around at the time). They were cut in half with and a clevis grade 70 hook added to each cut end. Add 4 chain binders and attach one to each corner of tractor frame to the trailer. The FEL and BH get a heavy duty strap.

There is a weight limit which I believe your tractor and mine is under (I forget the number) that I believe only one grade 70 chain on front and back would be legal, along with proper securing of FEL and attachment. But 4 chains made more sense to me. I am sure others will chime in with more specifics on weight minimum requirements. It has been discussed many times and if you do a search you will find many threads on this topic.

Anyway, that is what I do and I feel quite secure towing with this setup. I have a 7k 18' car hauler with brakes on both axles. If I had it to do over I would have gotten a 10k and probably 20' long trailer. But I did do a few mods on trailer for convenience and overall the set up works well for me as long as I don't buy a larger tractor!

Your gate/ramp must be pretty well reinforced to hold up to the weight.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

I use to chain my tractor down and used ratchet binders DOT says it has to be bound on all 4 corners with separate tension device. I then bought some weld on 1/2 D rings put 2 on each bucket corner and on loader at pivot point and on both sides of quick hitch then bolted lashing winches
that take a 2 inch strap with a slip hook on end the winches have spring loaded locking device and you tighten with a 1 1/8 wrench much faster than chain and binders

 

[Porchfan]

Gate is rated at 3000 lbs. which is just about what the tractor loader and box blade are. What they told me was if the wheel base is longer than the gate (which it is) then the full load of the tractor will never be on the gate. It gets partially distributed to the trailer once the front wheels hit it. I wanted the gate. The trailer will be used for much more than just hauling the tractor. On tying the tractor down on four corners with independent chains - the dealer delivered it using just 2 chains. I'll dig into this deeper in the next few days. The first time I have it scheduled to work outside my property is in 2 weeks. By then, I should be all set up for travel.

 

[Fallon]

I used some 15k lbs rated straps over the front "bumper" on my L3200. Despite the corners not being sharp at all the strap ended up disturbingly frayed when I pulled it off. I decided to stick with chain after that.

I chain the front with it running, then back up until its tight. Shut it down then use ratchet binders & chain on the back. Finally a strap or chain over the loader or bucket & any implement on the back. I'm not as concerned about the loader & bucket, so don't kill the straps on them if I'm using them.

 

[check]

Why not just chain down the front end loader and the rear implement? In my case the rear implement is a backhoe. Both are very solidly attatched to the tractor.

 

[Fallon]

If you go by DOT regulations you need to chain/strap the tractor at 4 points AND chain/strap any implements (including the loader). I think you are only permitted chain (not strap) if you are hauling machinery or metal (potentially sharp or cutty) over 10 or 15k lbs.

While a 3pt or loader frame is more than capable of stopping the tractor dead, its a flexible joint & serviced by hydraulics. Generally you shouldn't trust hydraulics with your life, they leak down, hoses rupture, etc. Your 3pt doesn't have down pressure, so that implement is just being held down by gravity & you can't trust gravity in an accident.

I'm not a CDL but try to stick to the DOT regs if I can. The regs are there for a reason & it will keep cops from getting nitpicky.

 

[Porchfan]

Re: Trailering my B2650 Tractor and Reccomended Tie-Downs

If under 10,000 lbs, it looks like two tie-downs are the minimum under the Federal Motor Carrier Administration rules in section 393.128 (rules for securing automobiles, trucks and light vans) Regulations Section | Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration....
(a) Applicability. The rules in this section apply to the transportation of automobiles, light trucks, and vans which individually weigh 4,536 kg. (10,000 lb) or less. Vehicles which individually are heavier than 4,536 kg (10,000 lb) must be secured in accordance with the provisions of ｧ 393.130 of this part.
(b) Securement of automobiles, light trucks, and vans. (1) Automobiles, light trucks, and vans must be restrained at both the front and rear to prevent lateral, forward, rearward, and vertical movement using a minimum of two tiedowns.
(2) Tiedowns that are designed to be affixed to the structure of the automobile, light truck, or van must use the mounting points on those vehicles that have been specifically designed for that purpose.
(3) Tiedowns that are designed to fit over or around the wheels of an automobile, light truck, or van must provide restraint in the lateral, longitudinal and vertical directions.
(4) Edge protectors are not required for synthetic webbing at points where the webbing comes in contact with the tires.

If it's over 10,000 lbs, then four tie-downs are required: Regulations Section | Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration
ｧ 393.130: What are the rules for securing heavy vehicles, equipment and machinery?

(a) Applicability. The rules in this section apply to the transportation of heavy vehicles, equipment and machinery which operate on wheels or tracks, such as front end loaders, bulldozers, tractors, and power shovels and which individually weigh 4,536 kg (10,000 lb.) or more. Vehicles, equipment and machinery which is lighter than 4,536 kg (10,000 lb.) may also be secured in accordance with the provisions of this section, with ｧ 393.128, or in accordance with the provisions of ｧｧ 393.100 through 393.114.
(b) Preparation of equipment being transported. (1) Accessory equipment, such as hydraulic shovels, must be completely lowered and secured to the vehicle.
(2) Articulated vehicles shall be restrained in a manner that prevents articulation while in transit.
(c) Securement of heavy vehicles, equipment or machinery with crawler tracks or wheels. (1) In addition to the requirements of paragraph (b) of this section, heavy equipment or machinery with crawler tracks or wheels must be restrained against movement in the lateral, forward, rearward, and vertical direction using a minimum of four tiedowns.
(2) Each of the tiedowns must be affixed as close as practicable to the front and rear of the vehicle, or mounting points on the vehicle that have been specifically designed for that purpose.

Additional regulations are listed in sections 393.100 thru 393.114. They are here: Cargo Securement Rules | Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

I suspect each state may have it's own additional rules as well. Generally here in NC, they usually following federal rules for similar safety requirement regs

 

[newbury]

Nice looking but tight package.

When I got my first tractor, trailer, box blade I had a little more room.



Which went away with my second tractor.




Well, you've got all the rules, 4 points chained and implements strapped, but WHERE do you position the tractor?

Try and figure out what ancillary equipment will be hauled and maybe put ON the trailer. Stuff like fuel cans, chain saw, brush cutter, come-along, winch, etc. You might want to put a tongue box on the trailer that you can put that stuff in (except the brush cutter) and store the chains and binders in when NOT traveling. Also - do you have a spare trailer tire?.

Once you figure where everything will go check the tongue weight. You might have to roll the tractor or turn it around for correct weight distribution to get the about 12.5% (+ or - 2.5%) on the tongue. Then when you've got your "full rolling package" mark where the tires are so you can put it there again quickly.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

I use to chain my tractor down and used ratchet binders DOT says it has to be bound on all 4 corners with separate tension device. I then bought some weld on 1/2 D rings put 2 on each bucket corner and on loader at pivot point and on both sides of quick hitch then bolted lashing winches
that take a 2 inch strap with a slip hook on end the winches have spring loaded locking device and you tighten with a 1 1/8 wrench much faster than chain and binders

when I hook to my quick hitch its lowered as far as it will go so its not going to leak down. also straps have to be rated at more than what is being strapped down only common sense my straps are rated a5k each. chains and binders work great but I have found using straps with d rings welded to equipment I don't have chaffing of straps and with winches on trailer that pivot I can get very tight with wrench used to adjust. I pay 8 dollars apiece for 2 inch straps with hook sewn in to webbing. I get these from sling company and the lashing winches were 12 dollars at Textrail

 

[s219]

When I trailered my b2920 on a similar trailer, I'd put a chain in front going through loader crosstube or two heavy straps, one to each corner of the front frame (just below where the front grill guard bolts). Then in the rear I'd use a single chain through the drawbar clevis. If I had a box blade on, I'd use a single strap over the box blade and through it's framing. Be sure to get as close to a 45 deg angle on the chains if you can -- that will give sideways and forward tension.

Be sure to use 4wd when loading/unloading so that braking is on all 4 wheels. In 2wd you can have a surprise. You may need to block the rear of the trailer if the tongue lifts too high when loading/unloading. If it wants to lift the rear of your truck in the air, block it!

 

[s219]

Btw, what length is the trailer? It looks too short, unless the photo angle is misleading me. I needed all of the 16' deck on my trailer for the b2920 in order to balance tongue weight properly. Generally the box blade was close to the rear gate and I had about 12-16" margin up front. With my heavier wood chipper on the 3-pt, I'd come forward another 10" or so.

 

[xtruckerbob]

Being a ex trucker I have seen a lot of bad binding on the road. But be sure over binding is much better than under binding. I saw a man with a 40? hp tractor, loader and box blade bound down with a couple of 1 inch ratchet straps and when the trailer started fish tailing the tractor came off and bouced a couples of time the went into a wild roll. I stopped to help the man and all he said "I never had hat happen before".

 

[Porchfan]

My trailer is 16 ft. I have a foot and a half clearance with the box blade and loader attached. It's plenty big for me (at the moment). Today I picked up two 14 ft grade. 70 chains and two lockable binders. Here there are locked down on the trailer. Later this week I'll figure out where and if to weld or attached a few D rinds to the tractor and or FEL

 

[AStanton]

I use two of these ratchet straps when I trailer my Kubotas. I'll been on the interstate with the BX-25 and never got stopped. So I must be doing something right.

 

[Fallon]

I got a killer deal on a 16' tilting deck 15k lbs trailer at an auction to haul my L3200 (3,500lbs with loaded tires & loader if I remember + whatever implement). It's only saving grace is a a 5ish foot long tongue. If I load facing forward my bucket has to go half way down the tongue, well in front of the deck to get things to balance properly. If I load facing rear the implement may or may not be hanging over. Haven't hauled with the 5' rotary cutter on... that might be fun loading.

I keep thinking about trying to find a 20' tilting deck. I really want a dump trailer, but they cost almost double what I paid for my used 2005 F250, you can't find used ones around here & they top out at 16' if you can find em, usually 12 or 14. In any case I'd probably be worse off for usable space to load the tractor & implements.




P.S. looking at those photos now that may have been when I abused the strap, if not, same tie down location.

 

[Egon]

Pictures of my JD4200 with loader and hoe tied down on a 20 ft 10k trailer.

 

[David Devuono]

I have a quick attach bucket on my B3200 so I remove the bucket and put it in the bed of my pickup. then I hook the loader arms under the front rub rail of the trailer, then proceed to add lots of tie downs. Just locking the loader on the rub rails ensures it won't move on the trailer and everything else is a bonus and makes it legal I guess. By putting the bucket in the truck ensures a good fit on my 14ft trailer.

 

[AStanton]

Egon,
Are you sure that you are not from down under---Australia?

 

[Fallon]

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