tawilson
Platinum Member
I wonder if you could fit a chain coupler throught the slot and connect the chain to it.
Trailer Safety Chain concern
- Thread starter RonR
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Rowski
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( if fact it's quite clever. )</font>
I was thinking that too. A very easy way to adjust the length of the chain, keep it from dragging on the ground.
I was thinking that too. A very easy way to adjust the length of the chain, keep it from dragging on the ground.
tawilson
Platinum Member
JJT,
I don't know about that. Won't each chain be taking half the weight? Plus, there may be more forces in effect which may add considerably more than just the tongue weight(dragging, whipping, bouncing, rolling, twisting and other technical things). How far upstate are you? The way I've got it figured, upstate is anything north of New York City, and northern New York is north of the thruway. So I guess I'm both.
I don't know about that. Won't each chain be taking half the weight? Plus, there may be more forces in effect which may add considerably more than just the tongue weight(dragging, whipping, bouncing, rolling, twisting and other technical things). How far upstate are you? The way I've got it figured, upstate is anything north of New York City, and northern New York is north of the thruway. So I guess I'm both.
tawilson
Platinum Member
Maybe I'm missing something, but those slots don't look like you can pull the chain through them, so how do you adjust it? I think it looks rinky dink. Another technical term from northern New York.
Ok, I see what you mean by doubling over, so you can adjust. But I still don't like a pin that can fall out.
Ok, I see what you mean by doubling over, so you can adjust. But I still don't like a pin that can fall out.
JJT
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TAWilson, agreed, each chain takes half the weight, but each chain has 2 ends, each getting half of the half. Upstate for me is 45 miles west of Albany, (Fonda/Fultonville area). JT
Robert_in_NY
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Not all lynch pins are .10 cent specials. There are different grade lynch pins just like there are different grade drawbar pins and bolts and....
What I am getting at is that no one knows what quality or grade these lynch pins are. I have had them that the springs are so strong you have to work hard to open them and watch your fingers when you close them. Either way, I do like this setup on the trailer.
What I am getting at is that no one knows what quality or grade these lynch pins are. I have had them that the springs are so strong you have to work hard to open them and watch your fingers when you close them. Either way, I do like this setup on the trailer.
jwstewar
Elite Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( TAWilson, agreed, each chain takes half the weight, but each chain has 2 ends, each getting half of the half. )</font>
This doesn't make since to me /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Just because there are 2 ends, doesn't mean that the weights gets split up. Lets see if I can explain my thought on this in a simple manner so that I can I understand it myself. Lets say we are going to pull a 10 lb. wooden block across the floor with a chain by the very end link. I exert 15 lbs. of pressure on the end of the chain to overcome the inertia of the 10 lb. block. The first link gets 15 lbs of pressure, so does the second link, the 3rd and so forth clear back to the link attached to the block. Am I correct in my thinking here? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
And as has been said by others because of whipping, bouncing, and swaying each chain will likely end up taking the entire load and actually more because of forces - not necessarily at the same time or for the whole duration of the event.
Back to the original question. I think it is pretty slick and probably wouldn't change it. A lot better than the way the manufacturer attached my chains on my little trailer. Both chains attached to a single bolt ran through the little triangle that forms the little leg for it to sit on when unhitched.
This doesn't make since to me /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Just because there are 2 ends, doesn't mean that the weights gets split up. Lets see if I can explain my thought on this in a simple manner so that I can I understand it myself. Lets say we are going to pull a 10 lb. wooden block across the floor with a chain by the very end link. I exert 15 lbs. of pressure on the end of the chain to overcome the inertia of the 10 lb. block. The first link gets 15 lbs of pressure, so does the second link, the 3rd and so forth clear back to the link attached to the block. Am I correct in my thinking here? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
And as has been said by others because of whipping, bouncing, and swaying each chain will likely end up taking the entire load and actually more because of forces - not necessarily at the same time or for the whole duration of the event.
Back to the original question. I think it is pretty slick and probably wouldn't change it. A lot better than the way the manufacturer attached my chains on my little trailer. Both chains attached to a single bolt ran through the little triangle that forms the little leg for it to sit on when unhitched.
Rip
Platinum Member
I'll just chime in with a "looks fine to me, too".
I'de be more concerned with achieving a properly balanced load and tongue weight on a single axle trailer, but once you figure out the "sweet spot" and mark it, you would be ok.
Rip
I'de be more concerned with achieving a properly balanced load and tongue weight on a single axle trailer, but once you figure out the "sweet spot" and mark it, you would be ok.
Rip
JerryG
Super Member
If it was a heavier trailer with two axles, then I would probable change it. But given the size and capacity of the trailer, I wouldn't be concerned.
BTW as said there are different strengths of lynch pins and you can also buy a locking lynch pin. With the locking one, you have to physically squeeze the bale together, before it will releases.
BTW as said there are different strengths of lynch pins and you can also buy a locking lynch pin. With the locking one, you have to physically squeeze the bale together, before it will releases.
michaelaz
Member
How about doing this to keep everybody happy and have peice of mind. I'm sure you have enough chain to do this. Take the last link of the chain and bolt is somewhere on the trailer frame, come back a couple links and use the setup you have now with the lynchpins. This way you have both and nothing to worry about.
Michael
Michael
LBrown59
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~~~~~~How do we know that the pins aren't stronger than the bolts that you might replace them with???~~~~~
bugstruck
Platinum Member
Ron, Not to worry. I'd leave it as it is or at most replace the pins with grade 5 bolts if the pin steel is in question. That configuration is better than many I've seen. Welding a piece of chain directly to the frame rails is not necessarily better, assuming your slotted bracket is of sufficient thickness and properly welded.
RedDog
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Not all lynch pins are .10 cent specials. There are different grade lynch pins just like there are different grade drawbar pins and bolts and....
What I am getting at is that no one knows what quality or grade these lynch pins are. I have had them that the springs are so strong you have to work hard to open them and watch your fingers when you close them. Either way, I do like this setup on the trailer. )</font>
Exactly!!!
JerryG, you hit it also!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I can't figure out what all the fuss is about /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif It's not like this is a "big" trailer.
RedDog
What I am getting at is that no one knows what quality or grade these lynch pins are. I have had them that the springs are so strong you have to work hard to open them and watch your fingers when you close them. Either way, I do like this setup on the trailer. )</font>
Exactly!!!
JerryG, you hit it also!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I can't figure out what all the fuss is about /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif It's not like this is a "big" trailer.
RedDog
To fail from pure pulling, the pin would have to sheer through or the plate around the slot would have to bend such that the pin could bend and pull through.
Even assuming the cheapest grades of steel involved, the geometries are such that the forces would need to be in the 10's of thousands of pounds. Probably higher than the chain itself is rated for.
I would be mostly worried about the spring-ring getting snagged on something or somehow bouncing loose. On tractor implements, lynch pins get lost all the time being dragged through brush and stuff. On the trailer, its probably less likely.
- Rick
Even assuming the cheapest grades of steel involved, the geometries are such that the forces would need to be in the 10's of thousands of pounds. Probably higher than the chain itself is rated for.
I would be mostly worried about the spring-ring getting snagged on something or somehow bouncing loose. On tractor implements, lynch pins get lost all the time being dragged through brush and stuff. On the trailer, its probably less likely.
- Rick
MarkV
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Think I would just pull one more chain link up on each side and slap a padlock on it. I’d still use the lynch pins but the lock would give me peace of mind and make sure someone else didn’t think they needed my chains more than me. As smart as we are here on TBN I’d bet the manufacture of the trailer has done enough figuring to feel safe enough from liability issues to continue to use the set up.
MarkV
MarkV
