Trailer Safety Chain concern

[RonR]

Greetings.

I recently purchased a 5 x 14 single axle PJ trailer. It appears to me to be a well built trailer.

My concern is how the safety chains attach to the trailer frame. (See attachment). What they did was insert the chain link through a slot in 5/16 x 2" strap, and held it in place with a lynch pin.

I have no idea how strong these pins are, but it sure looks like a weak spot to me. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Your thoughts please?

Thanks!
Ron

 

[LarryRB]

I'm not sure of laws or legal requirements however, on my trailer, the chains are bolted through the six inch channel frame.

 

[Typhoon]

My chains are bolted/welded to the trailor frame. The first link on the chain is bolted through, AND welded. If my tractor was being hauled on that trailor, I would change that setup. I can't imagine it taking more than like 30 mins to make the change. Just my opinion. Im not real crazy about that lynch pin setup.
-Brad

 

[MF1455v]

My 6 x 12 tandam axle utility trailer had the chains welded in place.

 

[armyof1]

I would say for piece of mind I would change it. If something happen and your trailer would break lose and someone got hurt. Most of us would not be able to live with this if we could of change it before hand. Sam

 

[AndyM]

I would change it. I would only costs a couple dollars to bolt the chains on, but the peace of mind it would give is priceless. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[RonR]

Only reason I figure they did this was if you needed to shorten the chain lengths some (like if you had different tow vehicles).

I think for peace of mind, I'll replace the pins with Grade 8 bolts, especially if I take the unit on the highway........

Thks for the inputs.
Ron

 

[fishman]

That's a neat system in that it allows one to change the chain length, which isn't a big deal if the same tow vehicle is used.

I personally wouldn't have a problem with that setup. I don't see how the pin could come undone if force was applied, so it would have to break. Since I use them all the time on my tractor to keep important things attached (and who doesn't) it seems to me at least that the setup is fine. In fact, I wish my trailer had that system.

 

[mbrule]

I agree with most posters, probably would work fine, but why take the chance. If you are concerned about adjusting the chain length, bolt or weld on chains that are long enough for you longest application, when you need them shorter, wire tie a loop in them at the appropriate length. Works like a charm, I have three different trailers that are towed with two different vehicles, and thats how I do it.

Just my 2 cents,

Matt

 

[Ozarker]

It looks like a well thought out and well engineered system for attaching chains to the trailer. I wouldn't change it.

If your trailer comes loose, the forces will be horizontal against the cross member and not vertical against the pins. And I'll bet those pins are at least as strong as the pins used to put replacement chain hooks on the ends of chain.

And there are two of them to hold. I wouldn't change a thing.

 

[Richard]

Is my thinking off here?

My experience with pins like that is they are used to hold an impliment on the 3pt. The hookup itself is what takes virtually ALL the stress and all the pin does is hold the arm on the rotary cutter or box blade (in my case)

Looks to me in this instance, the pin itself COULD be asked to take 100% of the force, rather than (in case of box blade) the hitch hookups take 99% with some "additional" and therefore smaller force bleeding over to the pin (giving credit for maybe sideways force, but not 100% perpendicular force)

I dont think I'd be comfortable with that at all... besides... how many times have you seen a pin like that have the ring part come off the pin itself? (has happened to me)

I'd change it

/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[RonR]

I might take a file to one of my pins to see how hard they are. I can't believe they are very strong! I mean, I
can buy them for 10 cents--much cheaper than a bolt. Maybe that's why the mfg used them in the first place......

I think if I get the trailer out on the road, I'll replace those pins with grade 8 bolts!

I knew this would trigger a lot of discussion!

Ron

 

[chucko]

to me the pins my be weeker metal but they seem way thicker than the chain.
What is on the other end of the chan a "s" hook. how strong are they?

If they built the trailer this way and it fails then it is their problem to pay the lawers
If you change their design and it fails them...... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[SnowRidge]

The setup you have allows not only adjustment, but easy replacement. I like it.

Lots of trailers have their chains welded on, simply because it is about the cheapest way to do it. They get beat to death and covered with rust, and the owner doesn't do anything about it because they are welded on.

From the picture, it looks like the diameter of the pins is larger than that of the chain. They should be plenty strong enough. I wouldn't worry about breakage. The suggestion to change to grade 8 bolts is massive overkill.

If you are concerned, Google is your friend. With dimensions in hand, you should be able to find the safe working load of the chain and the lynch pins. With that information, you can make an informed decision.

SnowRidge

 

[Bird]

I've never seen the chains done that way, but I like it. I'm certainly no expert, but I'll bet that's plenty strong enough.

 

[755inNY]

Anyone have the spring force of the bail fail on a lynch pin? I have. I've also lost lynch pins from the implement. Probably did not have the bail snapped down tight or it caught on something, either way it was GONE. I don't question that it is strong enough and that it is a slick idea for easy adjustment or replacement of the chain but I would not want to rely on that method for keeping the pin in place. It could fail, something could snag on it or some kid could find it fascinating to play with.

Jeff

 

[Inspector507]

Unless I'm missing something here.......like something hidden by the linch pins in the photo, there is no way to get the next link up through the slot to make any adjustments in regards to chain length.

RonR,
Try to shorten the length on the chains and see if it works......if it does, SORRY /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RonR]

I think what you can do is "double the chain" over, and stick one link up in the slot. Hard to describe..........

Think there's enough room for that.

(Sorry if that's a head slapper!)
Ron

 

[Inspector507]

Yeah I understand what you said.......I just never thought of THAT..... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[JJT]

I'd leave it as is. Correct me if I'm wrong but in the event of a hitch failure each lynch pin is only going to take 1/4 the tongue weight, (2 check chains and the other 2 ends are attached to the tow vehicle). With the single axle trailer I don't see an issue with this setup, if fact it's quite clever.