Trailer Questions For Kubota BX1500

[Robert_Parent]

Have been looking to purchase a trailer for a couple months and thought maybe someone here could help clear the fog. I have a Honda Ridgeline and a Kubota BX1500 (with loader, 10.5 ft length, 1600 pounds).

What I have been mostly looking at are tandem axle, landscape type trailers. I know lots of folks say bigger is better but where does one draw the line? A few items of confusion:

Length, 12 ft or 14 ft? What is really needed to balance the load without lots of messing around?
Would 5000# GVWR be sufficient (two 3500 lb axles)?
Are drop axles a good option?
Is it best to have electric brakes on both axles.?
For a ramp 5 ft, stand up knees looks like a good choice.

Here is link to a local trailer of interest:

Tandem Axle Utility Trailer, Johnson Trailer, Colfax Wisconsin

Thanks for your comments,
Robert

 

[rjkobbeman]

A quicky search on the net, I found the GCWR of the Honda Rigeline to be 10,085 lbs. Honda says the max you can tow is 5,000 lbs. The GVWR is 6050. The curb weight is like 4,500 lbs.

That being said, you want your trailer and all of its cargo to be 5,000 lbs or less. I recommend getting a trailer that is "just right" for your tractor and not too much on the "bigger is better" idea... because a bigger trailer will weight more and get you close or over the GCWR.

Any idea what the trailers weight?

Also, do you have an implement (like a bush hog) that you would want to transport?

The longer the trailer, the more you can "play" with adjusting the load for a proper tongue weight. If you buy a trailer the exact length as your tractor and FEL, you have two choices to load: forwards or backwards. Hopefully one of those two ways (probably forwards) puts the right tongue weight on your truck. Bigger trucks can handle more tongue weight... so more tongue weight than desired may not be a big deal for some... but your truck, you probably don't want to go over by too much. Do you know the GAWR of your rear axle? Based on the curb weight and GVWR numbers, it looks like 1,000 lbs is the most you can put in your truck. That is fuel, driver, passengers and cargo. I would expect the "cargo" amount could be tongue weight as long as your hitch can handle it.

Those trailers definitely have the wheels to the rear. From those pics I can't tell if they are at the "correct" offset of if they are back farther. The farther back the trailer wheels are, the more tongue weight you will have.

Lots of things to think about.

 

[BruceWard]

Why not use some 4 wheeler ramps and put it in the bed

If the BX1500 is all you are going to move why not buy a mesh 5x10 trailer. That will keep the load down on your Ridgeline. Something like this would keep the total load down to less than 2,000 pounds Carry-On Trailer Mesh Floor Trailer, 1600 lb. Capacity - 0190326 | Tractor Supply Company .

 

[Will_C]

I would buy a tandem 16' trailer. Most are rated for 7000lbs., although you may find a 5000lb unit. The 5k trailer would be sufficient. The extra length would come in handy for many other uses, and would allow you to trailer your tractor with an implement.

I would recommend brakes on both axles-that is the law in many states of you go over 3000lbs.

What's your budget? You sound like a good candidate for an aluminum trailer. I have an 18' 7k tandem alumunum trailer that weighs 1200lbs empty. There are pricier.

Will

 

[zmansmac]

I finished building a trailer this spring for my B7500 which is not too much bigger than your BX. I also struggled with deciding on how big to make the trailer although I really wanted to keep it smaller in size than my buddy's 7 1/2 x 16 footer that I previously borrowed. I have a FEL, MMM and back blade. I decided to size the trailer for the tractor and FEL figuring that I could set the back blade blade down between the bucket and front of the tractor. So I went with a 6 x 12 foot trailer. I'm happy with the way it turned out. But then I got a good deal on a used Box Blade and my trailering now has a new issue as you can see in the picture with the BB hanging off. I could load the BB in the bed of the pickup but would really rather leave it attached to the tractor. So I'll be exploring ideas like some removable stock on an angle above my storage box so the FEL bucket actually rests (and gets strapped down) in front of the trailer. If I had to do all over again I would have gone 14 feet long and not had this issue. So while I see your point about keeping the trailer size down also look to the future if you think you ever may acquire any other implements.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The main issue with your setup is getting the right amount of tongue weight. To do this you need a trailer that will allow you enough room to shift the weight around. Looking at your trailer specs you listed I would guess, based on what my trailer weighs, that the 16' version is in the 1400# range. Its only $10 more than the 14' version so that is a no brainier to me.

Get the 16' with ramps and you will be fine. Just make sure you truck has a brake controller, the trailer has brakes, and you have a tranny cooler on your truck. If not get one, they are under $50 and can save you $2500 in a hurry.

Chris

 

[BrianR]

I pull my BX2200 on a 16' 72" wide tandem axle landscape trailer with Aluminum ramps (6' long), electric brakes on 1 axle, wood floor, and the trailer and ramps empty weigh in at 1600lbs. The length makes it easy to adjust tongue weight. Where I place the tractor depends on whether the loader is on it, and whether I have a 3 point attachment (plow, disc, sprayer, planter, etc) on it as well.

Drive up on the trailer and park where the trailer tongue starts to squat the Ridgeline at the rear a couple of inches, and that should be just right!

 

[timswi]

Don't take this the wrong way, but you will probably want to go easy on the trailer weight with a Ridgeline. Nice vehice, but not a full-size pickup. I have no doubt that you can easily pull a BX. If you have the budget, an aluminum trailer would be perfect in your case.

As Chris said, a brake controller is absolute...A tranny cooler is good insurance.

 

[Baucom]

I think you will be just fine with a regular, easy to find, relatively cheap, 16' 7K landscape or utility trailer. My 16' Hurst weighs 2000# and is on the heavy end of the spectrum for 7K landscape trailers. If your trailer is no more than 2000# & your BX + FEL is 1600#, then that still leaves 1400# of excess towing capacity on your Ridgeline for an attachment or 2. Make sure you get a brake controller and that your trailer brakes are working, and you'll be fine with that load behind your Ridgeline. Take DP's advice regarding getting your tongue wt. right and making sure you have a transmission cooler.

I know trailer wt. is a bit of a concern, but I suggest the 7K 16' landscape/utility trailer because, in general, it is the most bang for your buck in a new trailer. A 12' really limits your ability to balance the load, and a 14' isn't much cheaper or lighter than a similarly constructed 16'. These trailers are plentiful on dealer lots, and any decently constructed make/model will be up to the task of hauling your BX--it's not much more wt. than a large GT, just a larger footprint.

 

[timswi]

I agree that there is no real benfit of going with a 14ft over a 16 ft. I borrowed my neighbors 14 footer (long story) and it was difficult to balance the load givin the length. 16 ft would have made things much easier.

A landscape trailer would work well. I just would be concerned about the steel trailer weight. My wife's H3 will pull a similar amount of weight, but I think I'd want to hold the trailer weight down as much as possible if this were my tow vehicle. I can't control the weight of the tractor, but I can buy the weight of the trailer. If I was pulling my RTV or BX with the H3...I'd go aluminum. In fact I'm saving up for an aluminum 16 ft car hauler now. Tired of board replacement and fixing rust on the steel ones...Just me though.

 

[aczlan]

Looking at that manufacturer, you would save $500ish and a few hundred pounds by going to a single axle trailer with brakes. The BX1500 will weigh at most 1800# with a mower and loader installed and a 3000# (3500# axle, registered for 3000#) single axle trailer will be in the 800-1200# range when empty. Just a thought.

We have a 6x10 lansdscape trailer and I think that a 14' would give you room to positon a BX1500. Ours gives you room to just fit the B7500 or BX2660 if the loader, blade or tiller are installed (you can choose to load forwards or backwards to shift the weight). or enough room to shift a little when you have just the tractor.
The spot where the tractor ends up is perfect for our trailer when behind the the Dodge 1500 we normally pull it with.

Do you have a place nearby that rents utility trailers? It might be worthwhile to rent a single axle trailer for a partial day and load your tractor on it to see how it pulls down the road.

Aaron Z

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looking at that manufacturer, you would save $500ish and a few hundred pounds by going to a single axle trailer with brakes. The BX1500 will weigh at most 1800# with a mower and loader installed and a 3000# (3500# axle, registered for 3000#) single axle trailer will be in the 800-1200# range when empty. Just a thought.

We have a 6x10 lansdscape trailer and I think that a 14' would give you room to positon a BX1500. Ours gives you room to just fit the B7500 or BX2660 if the loader, blade or tiller are installed (you can choose to load forwards or backwards to shift the weight). or enough room to shift a little when you have just the tractor.
The spot where the tractor ends up is perfect for our trailer when behind the the Dodge 1500 we normally pull it with.

Do you have a place nearby that rents utility trailers? It might be worthwhile to rent a single axle trailer for a partial day and load your tractor on it to see how it pulls down the road.

Aaron Z

With all due respect that is not a good idea. Its running on the ragged edge and in this case you are using a 6,000# truck where he is using a 4,000# truck. Big difference. I have towed the same 21' 3,500# boat on single axle trailer then later on a dual axle trailer behind the same Trail Blazer and there was no comparison. You can get by with one yes, but there in only $200 savings and the resale and safety aspect of a stock size (16' landscape trailer) its really the only option in my eyes.

My 18' tandem axle 82" wide 7,000# GVWR landscape trailer weighs just 1,250# when new. I had added a strap/chain box, slide in ramps, winch, and spare tire and mount and its still under 1,500#.

Chris

 

[Robert_Parent]

Thanks for all the responses? Just when a guy thinks he is getting close to making a decision a bunch more issues surface, better now than later though!

Yes, the Ridgeline has a towing limit of 5K as noted. It has a transmission cooler and I installed the trailer kit for electric brakes and have the controller wired, just needs a screw to hold it in place. I think I am set on this part of the adventure for now.

I know a single axle would likely work, but I am sold on a tandem for the variety of reasons already mentioned, mainly safety. Not looking for a cheap way out but rather something I buy once and use for many years.

Have not given much thought to aluminum trailers but will research those a bit. I understand the logic of suggesting aluminum over steel. The budget for a steel trailer I guessed to be in the $2500 range. If aluminum can be had for lets say a $1000-$1200 more that is not really an issue, much more then it would impact the general toy budget so would require a little more thought!

Looks like a 14 foot minimum length with 16 if one could keep the weight down and also fit it into the garage. (I had to remodel the shop to fit the milling machine so really don't want to rebuild the garage for a trailer!) I could see adding a rear blade or maybe using my cultivator but nothing beyond that so the length issue is worth considering for the future, good point.

Does anyone have experience with drop axles??? It would appear that being closer to the ground would have stability advantages, any thoughts???

Thanks again, I really appreciate all the insight as this is my first trailer ownership adventure.

Robert

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have drop axles on one of my boats and they do not seem to stay aligned. I have had to have it down at $70 per axle twice now. Never had a issue with any strait axles. The only way I would get drops again is if I had a height issue or ramp angle/loading the tractor issue. This can happen on tractors with belly mowers.

I would stay with the 16' trailer for a number of reasons but mainly it gives you room to grow, easier to balance the load, and much more desirable for resale.

Chris

 

[Will_C]

You should be able to find an aluminum trailer for 43700 or so if you do some shopping. I just bought an 18' utility trailer for $4700- that included 6k stowable ramps, LED lighting, a tongue jack, and I had 4 recessed D-rings installed. Pricing aways tends to be higher in the Northeast.

Will

 

[MESSMAKER]

I pull my BX2200 on a 16' 72" wide tandem axle landscape trailer with Aluminum ramps (6' long), electric brakes on 1 axle, wood floor, and the trailer and ramps empty weigh in at 1600lbs. The length makes it easy to adjust tongue weight. Where I place the tractor depends on whether the loader is on it, and whether I have a 3 point attachment (plow, disc, sprayer, planter, etc) on it as well.

Drive up on the trailer and park where the trailer tongue starts to squat the Ridgeline at the rear a couple of inches, and that should be just right!

Sounds like the way to go.

 

[Baucom]

You can buy a steel 16' 7K landscape trailer for less than half the price of that aluminum trailer. I don't see the advantage in this situation--he really isn't pushing the limits with a BX1500 on a 16' steel landscape trailer. Mine weighs 2K, so even with an implement on the back he's still right around 4K for the tractor and trailer. He can find lighter wt. 16' steel trailers pretty easily and save a few more pounds (not that it's really necessary) by getting slide in ramps instead of a tailgate. It really shouldn't be too tough to get a 16' 7K steel trailer that weighs ~1500# in the $2000 range.

You should be able to find an aluminum trailer for 43700 or so if you do some shopping. I just bought an 18' utility trailer for $4700- that included 6k stowable ramps, LED lighting, a tongue jack, and I had 4 recessed D-rings installed. Pricing aways tends to be higher in the Northeast.

Will

That BX1500, even with a FEL, really doesn't weigh that much more than a large GT like a JD X748, it just has a larger footprint, causing the OP to need a longer trailer than the avg. single axle in order to balance his load. If a couple hundred pounds or so makes or breaks his ability to safely tow the load then he has much bigger and more important considerations than steel vs. aluminum.

 

[Robert_Parent]

I just wanted to thank everyone here for helping with my trailer selection a couple months back. I ended up with a Triton, all aluminum, 14 ft, dual axle, electric brakes, built in WI.

Triton AUT1464-2, tandem axle trailer for hauling two ATV's end to end.

Being it's winter with a couple feet of snow it will likely be spring before the Kubota gets it's first ride. I think aluminum was the way to go as the Ridgeline is not a big power house. The trailer pulled great and the electric brakes and brake controller all worked as expected even on the snowy roads.

Thanks Again,
Robert

 

[RayCo]

How much did it cost, if you don't mind my asking?

 

[Robert_Parent]

How much did it cost, if you don't mind my asking?

$4250.00 out the door with tax, tags... Not exactly cheap for most, but I am happy. There were cheaper all aluminum trailers from other mfgs but I really liked the quality and how this one was put together.

Robert