Trailer Purchasing Advise

[JWR]

Actually your pivot is over your rear tires on your truck so technically you can turn them as tight as your truck can turn, with the trailer tire staying in spot. Watch a good truck driver spin a trailer in spot, they will have the truck perpendicular to the trailer.

A gooseneck for this OP is being out on a limb of a tree he has no need to climb.

 

[Kschwennsen]

A gooseneck for this OP is being out on a limb of a tree he has no need to climb.

it's safer, more secure, and better on the truck. It would be worth looking into at least.

 

[ovrszd]

Actually your pivot is over your rear tires on your truck so technically you can turn them as tight as your truck can turn, with the trailer tire staying in spot. Watch a good truck driver spin a trailer in spot, they will have the truck perpendicular to the trailer.

Yeah, I'm not one to scrub my trailer in tight turns and won't with a load on. Empty, yeah, I can turn my gooseneck around in a tight spot much easier than my bumper pull.

 

[ovrszd]

A gooseneck for this OP is being out on a limb of a tree he has no need to climb.

Maybe so. But in a broad discussion of trailers, which this is, the gooseneck needs to be debated.

 

[JWR]

it's safer, more secure, and better on the truck. It would be worth looking into at least.

Tail dragging dog.. I just disagree.

 

[ovrszd]

Tail dragging dog.. I just disagree.

Describe you disagreement with what he said? Thanks.

 

[JWR]

Describe you disagreement with what he said? Thanks.

I disagree that a gooseneck is best for what the OP describes as his circumstance and his operation. While off on this, the "safety" is only true in likely obscure situations where fishtailing is less likely with the gooseneck. That is no reason to reject a bumper pull in general, esp for this OP. There are millions out there operating safely. Secure? That is a vague claim. What does that mean? May be if we knew what it was about..., "better on the truck" is wrong in my opinion when it inherently involves doing some intrusion into the truck bed. Pulling a bumper pull trailer is not particularly hard on a truck if the truck is right-sized in the first place. Opinion is opinion.

 

[ovrszd]

I disagree that a gooseneck is best for what the OP describes as his circumstance and his operation. While off on this, the "safety" is only true in likely obscure situations where fishtailing is less likely with the gooseneck. That is no reason to reject a bumper pull in general, esp for this OP. There are millions out there operating safely. Secure? That is a vague claim. What does that mean? May be if we knew what it was about..., "better on the truck" is wrong in my opinion when it inherently involves doing some intrusion into the truck bed. Pulling a bumper pull trailer is not particularly hard on a truck if the truck is right-sized in the first place. Opinion is opinion.

I don't think anyone said a GN is best for the OP's specific description. It's just offered as a thoughtful alternative.

A GN trailer is much, much more stable to pull when things go bad. And again, I haven't saw anyone reject a BP.

Secure, again, is in reference to that time when things go bad.

Better on the truck, as in a more balanced load and pull is spot on.

Giving up bed space is most certainly something that needs considered.

 

[marhar]

I am in the market for a trailer to haul my tractor, DK40 HST, the longest the tractor will be is almost exactly 22ft with the loader and bush hog, although 98% of the time I wouldn't be hauling it with the bush hog, and with any other attachment I'm only between 17-19ft. I was ORIGINALLY looking for a 20ft 14k but the more I thought about it I figured I'd enjoy the room of a 22ft. I called a local dealer and they actually didn't have a 22 but they do have a 24ft in stock. I haven't gotten a chance to look at the trailer yet (to check for Quality of build) but what is your opinion on a 24ft bumper pull? I will be pulling it with a RAM 2500. It seems like a lot of trailer to me but then again I'd have no worry of needing extra space.
Another question would be, is anyone familiar with Currahee trailers? That is the brand of the trailer (24ft 14k) and this dealer has quoted me almost $600 less for this 24ft than another dealer had quoted me for a 22ft GPS brand trailer.
I know that better quality comes at higher prices and I haven't gone to look at either trailer (neither dealer is super close to me and of course they are in opposite directions from me), just curious if anyone on here was familiar with either the Currahee or GPS Brand(s)

Take a look at this website. Kauffman is in NC, they sale direct and I have purchased from them before. I do not work there and I have no association with them.

https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/

As for the bumper pull, I would look at a goose neck. You will have a tighter turning radius which is important when you start using a longer trailer.

 

[Hay Dude]

I also believe the OP stated his operation may grow. A gooseneck will allow more growth in terms of a heavier, more capable trailer.

Bumper pulls are fine. The thing is, a bumper pull can never fully utilize the full towing capacity or GCWR of a truck, where a gooseneck can.

Depending on the capacity of the truck, once a bumper pull starts pushing 14-16k, those front tires get awful light and little weight is distributed to the front axle.

I have yet to meet someone who bought a GN and decided to go back to a BP.

I find a GN to have a little better ground clearance on rough areas and when fully loaded this becomes even more obvious.

 

[Kschwennsen]

I disagree that a gooseneck is best for what the OP describes as his circumstance and his operation. While off on this, the "safety" is only true in likely obscure situations where fishtailing is less likely with the gooseneck. That is no reason to reject a bumper pull in general, esp for this OP. There are millions out there operating safely. Secure? That is a vague claim. What does that mean? May be if we knew what it was about..., "better on the truck" is wrong in my opinion when it inherently involves doing some intrusion into the truck bed. Pulling a bumper pull trailer is not particularly hard on a truck if the truck is right-sized in the first place. Opinion is opinion.

Ok when I said safer, I mean better weight distribution on the tow vehicle and trailer with better and stronger attachments to the center of the frame of the truck, typically with 9/16"-5/8" fasteners with a hitch on top of the frame. A receiver hitch mounts to the bottom and/or sides of the frame.

When I say secure, again goosenecks are attached better and are supported by the frame, a receiver hangs under the frame that may or may not be rusted out. a receiver also is leveraging on your frame whereas a gooseneck is pushing down evenly. Do you know what the testing requirements are for a gooseneck hitch Vs a receiver hitch? 900k cycles in J2638 with static loads of almost 100% capacity. Receivers on the other hand have no fatigue requirements and about 70% capacity. I've seen trailers come off both styles but I've seen more go in the ditch with receivers because the bed still holds the gooseneck to the truck, even if it's through the bed. Trust me, it's more secure.

And finally better on the truck. As I listed above, the support and even distribution on the frame is always going to be better on the frame and suspension. That's why they can be rated so much higher.

I never said a gooseneck is best for the OP, I just said it would be worth looking into. it may be intimidating for some to think about a gooseneck but when looking at the physics and dynamics it can make more sense. They hook up the same, they still have safety chains.

 

[ljjhouser]

Kschwennsen mentioned something that I thought to mention but passed because you are using a 2500 as the tow vehicle. But maybe it needs to be pointed out.
I tow my trailer and tractor using my Ram 1500, sometimes 200-300 miles. But I do transfer weight to the front axle using a Reese Steadi Flex hitch. It is a weight distribution hitch and keeps the truck level with weight on both axles. It also help prevent any sway issues. With the tractor, implement, chains, binders, toolbox, I usually tow around trailer and load - 10K. That puts about 1k on the truck weight.

He is correct, the WD will add to the cost of your trailer setup. About $600-$700. And also consider this - connecting the hitch, torsion bars, and coupler takes added time. As a round number, I always add 30 minutes for hook up and loading on my trailer. Might look at the weight you want to carry and the necessary tongue weight to travel safely. Just something to consider if you use BP.

 

[Kschwennsen]

Also, some WDs you need to disconnect when backing up and most only go up to 10K lbs.

 

[scottdv]

If you think 20' is enough, buy 24" Extra deck area is nice to have. My trailer is 21.5' of flat deck, 3' of beavertail, and almost 8' between the wheels. I put a Kubota B26 TLB with the backhoe, a 48"wide land plane, a 6' scraper blade, my pallet forks, a root/rock grapple, and the Kubota bucket on it. I still have room on the deck to walk all the way around the tractor and I pull it with a receiver hitch behind a Silverado 2500HD without any issues. Gas mileage sucks but no problems otherwise.

Trailers are like tractors. You can't have too many and you can't have too big

 

[Beezz27]

I see this has morphed slightly, and that is fine with me. But to add a bit more on my personal decision to pursue a BP over the GN.

1. Price and availability, in this area, I have yet to find a dealer near me that has a GN on the lot, I had one spected out with a lead time of 8 weeks (maybe not bad but..) And the cost is ranging about 1500-2000 more, add on to that the cost to add the GN hitch and wiring to my truck and I'm pushing another $800

2. Truck is not factory equipped for a GN so hitch and wiring would have to added (no big deal labor-wise but cost of adding) see above

3. My truck would be the only one in the family equipped to pull the trailer and the other purpose of getting a new trailer is for others to use it too, I'm far more inclined to let someone borrow my trailer (although that has bittten me in the past), than to let them borrow my truck and trailer!

4. I don't see any long haul situations for me, I am not in the farming, grading, or construction business, this is a trailer for personal use to move my tractor to a friend or neighbors house, some hunting land, to my business, etc... for small fun tractor work, lol. Not saying I would NEVER take it more than an hour away but it's not likely.

Again I'm not trying to make a case for or against either GN or BP, hey if a GN comes along that is in my budget and is in stock I'd go for it, I just have some Spring projects coming up (that are sooner than 8 weeks) and it'd be nice to be able to safely haul with an appropriate sized trailer!

 

[ljjhouser]

Also, some WDs you need to disconnect when backing up and most only go up to 10K lbs.

Yes, most stop at 10K- the Steadi Flex stops at 12K and can be backed up --many cannot. I bought 10K because that is reaching the limits of the tow cap of my truck - 11340 pounds.
That may be why most WD stop at 10-12K - Most 14K trailers weight from about 2K to 4K. My trailer with tilt bed double frame is 3500# - that pretty much rounds out the capacity of a 14K trailer to 10-12K hitch.
Anyway, in my orginal post I was attempting to point out many of the trailer options. There are many things to consider. DO NOT rush into buying a trailer. And you are right, I saw the pictures, YOU NEED a good trailer. If I had the storage space for a GN, I may have gone that route. But it was not an option. But I had to learn about it even to make that decision. Very interesting.

 

[Kschwennsen]

Yeah, no hard feelings here. I'm just really passionate about towing and trailers. I lovem'!

I understand Beezz27 points and I can respect that, like your point, I only have 3 BP trailers because that's what everyone has but I'd love to get a gooseneck. They aren't hard to install either (anyone can ask me if they have install questions!).

I think some states require WD for certain loads (over 6K?) but I'm not certain.

 

[deezler]

The cost of adding a GN hitch and wiring to your truck bed, and having that hardware in way constantly, is a huge obstacle. I would only go GN if you plan to tow heavy every single day. BP is just so less intrusive.

Plus the turning radius, as mentioned already - actually benefits the BP over a GN. A GN cuts the corner HARD when you pull into a driveway or such. BP follows the ass end of the truck, generally much safer around ditches and whatnot.

 

[ovrszd]

The cost of adding a GN hitch and wiring to your truck bed, and having that hardware in way constantly, is a huge obstacle. I would only go GN if you plan to tow heavy every single day. BP is just so less intrusive.

Plus the turning radius, as mentioned already - actually benefits the BP over a GN. A GN cuts the corner HARD when you pull into a driveway or such. BP follows the ass end of the truck, generally much safer around ditches and whatnot.

To your first paragraph. Not in the way at all. Not even sure why you would think that.

To your second paragraph. A GN trailer is much, much easier to turn around than a BP. True, a GN shortcuts more, so you swing out more, not a problem. Nothing at all more safe in regards to this with a BP.

 

[5030]

When I'm not pulling my GN, there is NOTHING in the bed above the floor. I would never go back to a BP. My GN is rated for 28K on the deck. Never seen a BP that can do that unless it's a dozer trailer or heavy equipment trailer.