trailer for Yanmar

BrettW · Jan 8, 2003

I'm ready to get a 16' utility trailer for my 2000 lbs yanmar. Question is, is steel tubing stronger that angle iron on the trailer body? Brakes on both axles? thanks, bw

kayssupply · Jan 8, 2003

Of course tubing is stronger. You have to weight the price vs your intended use. Most of the angle frame trailers are rated at 7000# gross. I have dual brakes my son has single. I think mine is easier on the tires and does stop much better if loaded to the max. Both our trailers are rated at 12000#.

Soundguy · Jan 9, 2003

As you've already heard, tubing will be stronger.. think of the square tubing as two peices of angle iron.

I have a 16' trailer with 2x8 lumber deck, and dual acles, but 1 brake axle. I pull my NH 1920 ( 33XX LBS ) or so. Pulls my 8n as well 23xx? lbs.

Just make sure you get a good deck... stay away from expanded metal. And if you get a smooth steel deck, like some of the tilt trailers.. make sure you have traction to get the tractor up on it.. I prefer wood decks.. but have seen some nice diamond plate ones too... but were a tad on the pricey side.

Also.. get a decent break controller.... don't want your pride and joy sitting on the back of your new trailer and have a el cheapo controller give you grief.

And as you've probably already seen / heard.. tie that tractor down to the trailer good. Chains or straps, use either.. but get ones rated for the weight. There are lengthy discussions of this in the archives.

good luck

Soundguy

htiek126 · Jan 9, 2003

I think the bigger factor is what will you use to pull the trailer and do you want much more capacity than 2000 pounds. A 16' foot trailer can get real heavy. I would not buy a trailer built with angle except for very light duty use. Steel tubing is very strong, but is also more expensive. Steel channel has good strength to weight characteristics, and is a common material in well designed trailers. If you are only hauling 2000 pounds and the trailer is built for light duty use, then brakes on one axle is reasonable. I just switched to a trailer with brakes on both axles, and for GVW loads of over 5,000 pounds behind my 1/2 ton pickup, I really appreciate the extra braking power.

gbirky · Jan 9, 2003

Brett,
My documentation lists the FF205D at about 1950 lbs without the tiller. If you add a loader, you need to factor that in as well. You will be hauling 3000 lb or more on the trailer by the time you add the tiller, finish mower ... (loader???).

P.S. I can't imagine having a tractor without a loader now that I have one.

Egon · Jan 9, 2003

Would not the section modulus, grade of material used and the postion of forces acting on the member be the determining factor on what configuration of material is used.

Egon

EFC · Jan 9, 2003

Check state laws for brakes, quite a few states including mine require brakes on all axels. That is true for out of state drivers in my state also.

htiek126 · Jan 9, 2003

Maryland Law three years ago required brakes on one axle for a two axle trailer, however, they have changed a lot of the trailer laws each of the last two years. When I went through inspections in December, I was told that there are even more changes this year. So checking again is definitely a good idea. I can not believe that they can get away with charging $75 for a 20 minute trailer inspection. I wish I made that much money...

gws · Jan 9, 2003

trailer inspections. WOW.... ALl I needed in ohio for tags was a weight slip.

Soundguy · Jan 9, 2003

In florida, if you are more than 5K for the trailer you need at least one axle of brakes. Also, all trailers made after 2000 need a breakaway device to activate the brakes.

For any heavy load I would always use tandem axle trailers as opposed to single axles.

Before I owned my own trailer, I borrowed a friends heavy single axle trailer to haul my yanmar 1700 home... tonge weight shifted around alot.. made driving less than fun.

My new 16' feels like a cadilac in comparison.. even though it is around 1800 lbs unloaded.

Soundguy

Soundguy

BrettW · Jan 9, 2003

the fact that Maryland has the balls to call itself the "Free State" is one of the bigger jokes I've had forced upon me. It sure ain't free to live here.

mah · Jan 10, 2003

I would go with an angle trailer if built right it would be more than strong enough and lighter than tubing. I have heard that tubing holds moisture inside and will rust out.
In TN, trailer laws are different for businesses versus the general public. So, check with your state's DOT.
Mike

LLove · Jan 10, 2003

What I did was fiqure the total weight of the load, then went looking for a trailer that had twice the amount of payload capacity. Wound up with a dump trailer. The single axle brakes are larger than those on a utililty trailer and works quit well with 2 tons, 1/3 of it's rating, in the trailer. At it's maximum gross the single axle brake setup wouldn't be enough. At work we have been replacing the brake controlers that have to be "adjusted to level", due to various problems. If you go up or down a steep slope / grade, the brake response is wacky. Sometimes too responsive, other times nothing at all. And if someone sitting in the middle bumps the controller when getting in or out, it may throw the adjustment out as well. Not to mention what washboard roads, and crossgutters in the street do. So now we're using name brand controllers that can be mounted in any posistion.
Overkill your minimum requirments on suspension, brakes, and tiedowns. You'll be happy you added the extra safety factor everytime you hit a bump, pothole, or nail the brakes. Lloyd

cpicton1 · Jan 10, 2003

You can buy a good car trailer with a channel iron frame & tongue for a couple hundred $$$ more than a utility trailer. An 18' or 20' tandem axle trailer should pull just as easy as a 16' behind your F150. I have a 16' PJ brand dovetail car hauler with treated lumber deck for my Kubota BX2200. With the loader and rear blade or box blade on I have two feet left. Don't forget that you should make sure your trailer has brakes and you will also need a brake controller for your truck. I use the Tekonsha Prodigy, about $125.00. This model is self leveling so it is very easy to use. You should also have a breakaway kit on your new trailer.

jimstractors · Jan 10, 2003

Brett,
I use a heavy duty car hauler to transport tractors. I have hauled up to two (1702d's) at a time with loaders, tillers, and box scrapers. My axles are rated for 5500lbs each. I have brakes on one axle and it stops fine. I figure the total max weight I've hauled is about 8500 lbs. I use a Ford dually F350 Diesel and still get 13-14 mpg loaded!
Jim
Jim's Tractors

BrettW · Jan 12, 2003

Thanks for all the help. I bought a used 16', 2 axle trailer with brakes and that break away thing. GVW 7000, bw

cpicton1 · Jan 12, 2003

Now that you have the trailer don't forget the binder grade chain and chain binders. Best way to secure a tractor on a trailer. Good luck. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

jimstractors · Jan 13, 2003

Brett,
For tie down chains and binders, check out www.harborfreight.com. When they have a free shipping promo, you can't beat the prices.
Jim

Soundguy · Jan 14, 2003

Great, now go get yourself a good break controller. Expect to pay 100 or so for the unit.

I use an activator II in my trucks, and they are awesome. Controlls for the 'atack speed' of the breaking, and break tension.. plus the usual emergency button.

There are cheaper models without readouts.. but I was kinda shying away from a 49 dollar controller.. considdering I'm pulling 15+ grand behind the truck.

Though, I imagine that any properly working controller is going to give decent performance in this day and age of electronics... Just a comfort issue ...

Soundguy