?Trade up from BX24

[dghecas]

I'm looking to trade up from my BX 24 to something that will be a little stronger/quicker for snow removal, rotary cutting the 3 acre meadow three times per year and various backhoe projects. I would still like to use the new tractor to cut the 1 1/2 acre of grass around my house and plan to use a rear finish-cut mower (60-72 inches). I'm looking at models B7800,B3030, L3130 and L3400. Not sure if the weight of the larger tractors (3000lbs) will trash my lawn or septic system. Maybe there are other Kubotas I should be looking at. Barn size won't allow me to go much wider than the models I mentioned and I only have 7 acres with a long dirveway. Would like to hear any educated thoughts out there to guide me and help whittle down my shopping list. Thanks

 

[hazmat]

B7800 or B3030 would be a good choice. They are about 2 "steps" up from the BX24 in capability. Either would run a 5' rotary cutter for the meadow. B3030 gets you position control & some other extras.

I'm running a B3030 (turfs - rears loaded) w/ Woods BH80-X on my 4 acres including ~1 acre of lawn. I have the 72" MMM. No issues with tearing up my soft soil. My previous tractor was a TC18 (B7510 size).

I can't decide what I like better about the new machine - more HP, backhoe, or the quick attach loader bucket / forks.

 

[njbmwgs]

let me know if you decide to sell the BX24, I might be interested, depending upon where you're located.

good luck w/your upgrade!

 

[swampvol]

I'm looking to trade up from my BX 24 to something that will be a little stronger/quicker for snow removal, rotary cutting the 3 acre meadow three times per year and various backhoe projects. I would still like to use the new tractor to cut the 1 1/2 acre of grass around my house and plan to use a rear finish-cut mower (60-72 inches). I'm looking at models B7800,B3030, L3130 and L3400. Not sure if the weight of the larger tractors (3000lbs) will trash my lawn or septic system. Maybe there are other Kubotas I should be looking at. Barn size won't allow me to go much wider than the models I mentioned and I only have 7 acres with a long dirveway. Would like to hear any educated thoughts out there to guide me and help whittle down my shopping list. Thanks

I have almost the exact same landscape/maintenance...no snow though. I went with the l3400hst, fel, 5' boxblade and bushog, and a toro 50" zero turn mower for the 1.5a finish cut...22k

 

[don716]

I know someone that lives in North GA. that has a 2005 model BX23 with a BH and a FEL,tiller and box scrape for sale if interested.He said it has less than 100hrs. and like new for 12,000 or best offer. Send me a PM if interested. Donny

 

[Tom_H]

I'd vote B3030.

Where do you live? If close to central CA, PM me re. what you want for the BX24.

 

[Toolguy]

B3030!!! I am biased because I own one. It will do it all. It has the extras that, to me, are necessities (modern looks, position control, telescoping lower links and sway bars on the 3PTH, foot operated tilt wheel that makes getting on and off the tractor much easier) that make owning and operating a tractor a pleasure. I mow with mine (60" MMM,) plow snow (6' RB) and do loader work. It is a snow plowing machine with turf tires. A 72" Rear Blade and the loader makes a good package for snow.

 

[art]

Why not a 2630? It's the same size as the 7800 and the 3030 just less horsepower and takes all the same attachments.

 

[DiezNutz]

It is a snow plowing machine with turf tires. A 72" Rear Blade and the loader makes a good package for snow.

I do the same thing with mine for the 700+ ft driveway, but I have R4's. Do you find any disadvantage with the turf tires in snow? The R4's even break loose sometimes.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Do you find any disadvantage with the turf tires in snow?

Not to jump in the conversation or anything...

I haven't cleared more than 6" yet, but I run turfs without chains and don't have any problems at all. I use nothing but the FEL. A little inefficient, but I haven't gotten to rig anything else up. Once they get all clogged up with snow, I don't know that R4's would perform a whole lot different. Ag's, maybe. Chains, certainly.

Actually, I haven't had much of a reason at all to get anything other than turf's. They've really impressed me. Easy on the lawn, nice riding, and sufficient traction. If it wasn't 4WD, it'd be another story. But 4WD covers about all the bases. In 4W-High, I'll always bog the HST before I lose traction...same for 2W-High, most of the time.

 

[ChuckinNH]

Art, I like the B2630 too. The three cylinder engine doesn't have the vibration that the four cylinder one does, and that makes it a very smooth tractor to operate! If I were going to brush hog a large area, it would be another story, since the larger engine will perhaps turn a larger rotary cutter. For other uses the cost difference would buy a front mounted snowblower instead of a rear one........ or some other very useful toy.

 

[DiezNutz]

Not to jump in the conversation or anything...

I thought that was the point!

Once they get all clogged up with snow, I don't know that R4's would perform a whole lot different. Ag's, maybe. Chains, certainly.

You're correct that once any of them clog, they're equally useless. The difference is that it takes a bit more to clog R4s and they also "unclog themselves" easier by throwing off bigger chunks. To use an analogy, 120 vs. 36 grit sandpaper. Hard for either of us to know how they really compare though, not also owning the other style tire.

Actually, I haven't had much of a reason at all to get anything other than turf's. They've really impressed me. Easy on the lawn, nice riding, and sufficient traction. If it wasn't 4WD, it'd be another story. But 4WD covers about all the bases. In 4W-High, I'll always bog the HST before I lose traction...same for 2W-High, most of the time.

R4s were definitely a compromise...I got them because I knew I would be spending alot of time in dirt/mud and snow, but also have grass to cut. Once you learn a few basic rules, it's easy to mow without tracking the lawn. The B3030 can still spin all 4 of them in M and L range once it really bears down on something. Biggest trouble I had was that ice storm we got on Valentine's Day... chains woulda been nice then. Once enough ice packed up in the rear blade, the tractor started "crabbing" down the driveway.

 

[swmpbgy1]

...I got them because I knew I would be spending alot of time in dirt/mud and snow, but also have grass to cut. Once you learn a few basic rules, it's easy to mow without tracking the lawn.

DiezNutz:

I'm taking delivery of my B3030 w/R4's, 60"mmm, and 60" FEL on Friday. I've been cutting my lawn with a BX2230 w/60"mmm without too much damage to the turf. Mainly in areas where the front tires have dug in while in 4wd and making a hard turn.

I am curious as to what you do to mow, without tracking the lawn on the 3030?

Thanks......
Swmpbgy1

 

[DiezNutz]

DiezNutz:
I am curious as to what you do to mow, without tracking the lawn on the 3030?

Swmp, I think you've got it pretty much figured out. Some of these are probably good practice even for Turfs.

Rule #1 is, don't mow when grass is wet/ground is soggy (I like to wait a whole day after heavy rain)
#2(a): No hard lock turns, especially turning into a hill. Sometimes best to make a 2-pt or 3-pt turn instead (easy with HST), especially around small obstacles. (b) Likewise, avoid sudden starts/stops.
#3: Always mow in 2WD, except when you have to use 4WD. You'll also save a little fuel & tire wear.
#4: Go down knolls & berms instead of up, if you can. If you have to go up, go at slight angle or use 4WD to help keep from slipping rears.
#5: Change up your mowing patterns to minimize rutting and soil compaction.

That's about it.

 

[Toolguy]

I agree with Keith. The turfs do anything I ask of them except in mud. Only ags would be much better but I try to stay out of the mud if at all possible. For snow I don't think anything can beat the turfs. As an old farm boy I can attest that ags are useless on hard packed snow. The Titan Turfs I have are very much like aggressive all-season truck tires. Lots of rubber contacting the ground with plenty of biting edges. Sometimes I think they are even too aggressive on the lawn when it is wet and soft. Turfs for me.

 

[DiezNutz]

For snow I don't think anything can beat the turfs. As an old farm boy I can attest that ags are useless on hard packed snow.

Kinda caught me by surprise with that answer (both that turfs are best and ags worst)... I'm trying to remember, the old Ferguson had Ags, I just don't recall whether it ever had that trouble.

The Titan Turfs I have are very much like aggressive all-season truck tires. Lots of rubber contacting the ground with plenty of biting edges.

The "lots of rubber" part usually isn't helpful in snow & ice...same weight spread over more surface area (lower psi), less is digging in. It must be the treads, maybe they make the tires act more like soccer cleats than wingtips. Wish I had both to compare...

 

[ChuckinNH]

I've used loaded ags on a very small Allis Chalmers "C" to break sugaring trails through a winter's accumulation of snow. Two wheel drive, but loaded tires, and chains similar to what you see on a logging skidder (with the cleated rings). Of couse we had to use the brakes to chew our way along sometimes. My more recent experience was comparing a Simplicity Legacy garden tractor with unloaded turf tires, and limited slip diff to my Kubota BX22 with loaded bar tires. Surprisingly, the Simplicity went places on packed, or icy snow that I needed 4wd on the Kubota! One thing we tend to forget in these discussions is that all r-4's, and all turfs are not created equal. The rubber in my bar tires on the BX was certainly softer, and the sidewalls flexed more ( too much sometimes) than the r-4's you find on an L4400 for example. I have also seen a wide variation in how wide, closely spaced, and angular the treads on R-4's are between brands. If you have very wide, hard bars that are only slightly curved, and have very little space between them, I would guess that the performance would not be as good as the R-4's that you see on the subcuts, and smaller "B" series Kubotas for example. The turfs on the smaller B Kubotas don't have the massive lugs that you see on the larger tractors, but do have a lot of "siping" that would really help on packed snow, and ice. In colder temperatures, the rubber compound sure makes a difference too,and just as in snow tires for cars, softer would be better in colder climates. I would think that sliding sidways would be a real possibility with some R-4's that are almost straight across, and I would sure be looking into chains for those tires! Usually, that is not the direction one would choose to go, given a choice!

 

[kwolfe]

The "lots of rubber" part usually isn't helpful in snow & ice...same weight spread over more surface area (lower psi), less is digging in. It must be the treads, maybe they make the tires act more like soccer cleats than wingtips. Wish I had both to compare...

Nothing is good in ice (except spikes) . Less surface area does create more psi, however more pressure per square inch could create a slicker surface in some situations. Think about how an ice skate works. Lots of pressure place upon a small surface area causes that ice to melt momentarily. It is the water that the skate slides on, not the ice.

 

[DiezNutz]

One thing we tend to forget in these discussions is that all r-4's, and all turfs are not created equal. The rubber in my bar tires on the BX was certainly softer, and the sidewalls flexed more ( too much sometimes) than the r-4's you find on an L4400 for example. I have also seen a wide variation in how wide, closely spaced, and angular the treads on R-4's are between brands. If you have very wide, hard bars that are only slightly curved, and have very little space between them, I would guess that the performance would not be as good as the R-4's that you see on the subcuts, and smaller "B" series Kubotas for example. The turfs on the smaller B Kubotas don't have the massive lugs that you see on the larger tractors, but do have a lot of "siping" that would really help on packed snow, and ice. In colder temperatures, the rubber compound sure makes a difference too,and just as in snow tires for cars, softer would be better in colder climates. I would think that sliding sidways would be a real possibility with some R-4's that are almost straight across, and I would sure be looking into chains for those tires! Usually, that is not the direction one would choose to go, given a choice!

Great post. Lots of good points. Indeed, I have a set of Michelin Arctic Alpin's for the one car that if you looked at the tread you'd think "these are for SNOW?!" But the treads are really rows of "squeegees" made of extremely soft rubber, and they're nothing short of incredible in snow & slush. The rubber is so soft you're only supposed to run them below 45-50 deg F.

 

[DiezNutz]

Nothing is good in ice (except spikes) . Less surface area does create more psi, however more pressure per square inch could create a slicker surface in some situations. Think about how an ice skate works. Lots of pressure place upon a small surface area causes that ice to melt momentarily. It is the water that the skate slides on, not the ice.

Everything you say is true, however I didn't mean solid ice. Driveway has a pretty decent slope to it, if it were solid ice, the tractor would be staying put or else I'd be picking it out of fence & trees.