Tractor Tie Downs

   / Tractor Tie Downs #1  

crashz

Elite Member
Joined
May 11, 2005
Messages
2,511
Location
NH
Tractor
Kubota L2501, JD LT150, DR Field Mower
With the new trailer and newly formed side business, I have been moving my Kubota nearly every weekend. Each project typically has been mowing, and mostly with the brush cutter. The new trailer is an 18ft equipment hauler and I use every inch of it with the Kubota with cutter and loader.

What I have done, both for convenience and tagging (the straps have load tags from the manufacture) is gone to heavy duty load ratchet straps. I normally keep them in each truck anyway, and each are rated at 3,330 lbs working and 10,000 breaking strength. To tie down the machine, I use three large straps, two in the front (one on each side) hooked to the tie down loops on the trailer and then hooked to the front frame where the grill guard attaches. The third is looped through a clevis on the draw bar and to each tie down loop in the back. The loader and cutter are then strapped down with the small ratchet straps rated for 500 lbs each.

The straps are easy to store, lighter and a lot cleaner. They also seem to stay tighter, as I never have to re-tighten them and are always still tight once I'm at my destination.

But I've always been a chain guy. And while a 5/16" chain may have the same working load limit, it just feels stronger. And so it just feels wrong.

I know this has been hashed out a lot before, but I think its a relevant topic to keep at the top of the list and I'd really like the groups opinion.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #2  
On my tractor I always use 2 each 5/16" chains in the front and 2 in the back, attached so the tractor is not only held forward and back but cross chained. In my experience you are more likely to have a load move forward than back so using 2 chains in the back is important. For holding implements I will use what is handy, chains or straps.

My new trailer has pipe spools so when possible I wrap the chain around them so I can get the proper binder tension using half links. If pipe spools aren't available I drop the chain through a stake pocket and hook it under the trailer frame. I don't trust stake pockets for heavier loads. Using stake pockets for lighter stuff like implements is fine.

Chains are less likely to get cut than straps so I prefer chains on heavier loads but there are cases where straps are appropriate or might even be better.

Just my opinion based on my experiences.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #3  
A LOT depends how far and fast you are moving the equipment and the size of the equipment.

If I'm only moving my B7610 a few miles at 35 mph it's far different than hauling my M4700 from Northern Virginia to Mississippi at 70 MPH. I've had straps on the long haul that were like new starting out and almost cut through before the end. I've yet to have a chain show appreciable wear or break.

With the new trailer and newly formed side business, I have been moving my Kubota nearly every weekend. Each project typically has been mowing, and mostly with the brush cutter. The new trailer is an 18ft equipment hauler and I use every inch of it with the Kubota with cutter and loader.
<snip>

But I've always been a chain guy. And while a 5/16" chain may have the same working load limit, it just feels stronger. And so it just feels wrong.

I know this has been hashed out a lot before, but I think its a relevant topic to keep at the top of the list and I'd really like the groups opinion.
I was always told chain the equipment, but strapping the attachments is ok. And try to use "protectors" on the straps. I bought a bunch of firehose to cut up for strap protectors.

On my tractor I always use 2 each 5/16" chains in the front and 2 in the back, attached so the tractor is not only held forward and back but cross chained. In my experience you are more likely to have a load move forward than back so using 2 chains in the back is important. For holding implements I will use what is handy, chains or straps.<snip>
About the same here.

And with the tariffs coming I expect now would be a good time to stock up on chains.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #4  
I'm a chain and binder man. Always worked, never broke em, never lost a load. Straps are fine, guys like em because they don't get their paint jobs dinged up, and are more pleasant to use bare handed.

If you get into a jackpot and wreck your rig and trailer, the diff between the two aint gonna amount to much. The only important thing is to use the best chain and best straps. It's nickel dime in the big picture. Heavy tie downs are like a better insurance policy on your belongings
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #5  
I tend to use straps but you pretty much have to use 4. Only using 2 straps is prone to cutting them.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I tend to use straps but you pretty much have to use 4. Only using 2 straps is prone to cutting them.

I do loop it through a clevis with all rounded edges, but I think you're right. Maybe I should use two straps, both attached to the clevis? Then if one is worn or cut, the other will be holding.

So my biggest issue with chains are the ratings and markings. Do I need certified chains and binders with load rating tags on them? Most box store or general chain has markings, but no tag. I've never seen the binders with any load markings or tags. Maybe tagged chain is only for hoisting? I get nervous with this, because technically I am operating this as a commercial enterprise, and want to be DOT compliant.

FYI - typically I only transport my Kubota (estimated load about 4600 lbs) within a 10 mile radius on country roads. The John Deere is in NY, so I no longer need to move anything from state to state.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #7  
In my mind two in the back is more important in back than front, due to any sudden braking. I also use ratchet straps but I'm only hauling a BX also. They do wear out over time, mine are getting a little rough. If I'm just going a few miles I have been known to just use one in back and one in front but usually use 4.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #8  
I use 4...... Koch Industries Grade 7 Binder Chains Transport 5/16"chains. One on each corner front and back. The back I use the drawbar and clevis. Front goes on the frame. I have been told that the State HP can look at the color of the chain and determine if it is ok to use, hence the chain color gold ? I also use Peerless Ratchet Style Folding Handle Load Binder With 2 Grab Hooks - 7,100 lbs. Safe Working Load ...easier to use. Plus a strap for each implement.
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #9  
I use straps for my B26TLB. At min 4 each rated for 3330lbs plus 2 for anything on the 3 point. With straps one just has to be careful with sharp edges and be mindful that UV rays can slowly weaken the material over time...so your likely replacing straps long before chains die.
I like straps because there is some stretch to hold them tight...chains are either tight or loose and should be checked often
 
   / Tractor Tie Downs #10  
On the BX I use 1 strap front and 1 back but have been doing chains lately as long as they are out of the box from moving the Grand L on the previous trip. On the Grand L3130 use a chain at each corner. On a Standard L would use at least 4 straps, 1 each corner, looping through a ring will not restrain side movement or if one hook comes undone.

With one at each corner you can have one loosen and still have enough restraint to pull over and secure.

While I am using lever binders, doing 4 and being able to hook from ground and not climbing up on the trailer the 4 chains and binders are quicker then the straps.

David
 
 
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