Tractor side SS quick attach build

[mwb]

I have been working on this for a while and recently started the actual fabrication work. I have a Montana with their style of QA (sliding pins) and it works ok but I find that it makes a sloppy connection. It's also not compatable with any others.

My dad also recently purchased a 'bota L3400 with the crappy 3ph and a pinned-on bucket - they don't have a QA for his loader. I looked at the aftermarket SS adapters but I don't like how far the push the bucket out; this would not be too big of a deal on the Montana (because it already has a QA) but the already marginal L3400 loader would loose to much lift, etc. I decided that I would design and build my own.

My design is based around the following:
1. Has to be simple - use standard materials available with no special tools required ('normal' people don't have mills, surface grinders, etc )
2. The basic form of the SS assembly and lock mechanism has to be compatible or easily adapted to any loader configuration (width) for compact tractors (probably 25 to 50 hp).
3. Light weight
4. Only one release handle is needed to operate both lock pins
5. If possible, allow the possibility of adding a power lock/unlock feature

The following tools are required to build: disk grinder, chop saw, welder, drill press (max 7/8 hole is required). I also have a small Myford lathe that I used to modify some parts but those parts are easily substituted for 'off the shelf' items.

This is a cross section view of the design (from AutoCad).


The side plates (the actuall angular parts that engage the SS) are rectangular tubes, 2x4". I had the shop cut the angles for me to make sure they were true. The lock pins are connected to each other by a tube so that both can be released by one handle.

Pictures and more details next.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[mwb]

Here is the rectangular tube with cut out. The cut out allows extra room for the release / lock mechanism to work. The round pin keeps the lock pin captive against the tube wall.



Here I fitted the tube and lock pin to my neighbors bucket to test fit.


The lock pins are made from 1.5" sqare tube. The tube allows for ligher weight and also contains the lock spring. The tip will be cut off and left open for drainage.


Lock pin parts. I turned some delrin to make a bearing surface between the spring and lock mechanism. A nylon bolt (5/8") could be substituted.

 

[mwb]

Here is an exploded view of the lock pin parts


Assembled. Note the slot in the side of the pin that allows spring compression.


Now back to the rec tube. This is the main bearing and lever mechanism to drive and lock the pin. The lever mechanism will lock with an "over center".


here the lock pin and lever mechanism have been installed. The main bearing collar has only been tacked in place for now. I will also add a grease zerk above the set screw. The set screw locks the bronze bearing sleave in place; this allow the lever to adjusted to clear the cut out.

 

[mwb]

lock pin in the 'in between' position - unlocked and half retracted
View attachment 126226

Lock pin in the fully retracted position
View attachment 126227

Now Have to weld the top cap plate to the rec tube.
View attachment 126228

This plate must finish flush on the front side. The angle of this plate is 45 deg.
View attachment 126229

View of the bottom plate with pin installed.


Now back to the bench to finish the other set. More info (hopefully) tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[mwb]

Seem to be running into some techincal difficulty with the pics

If a mod can make them stay as thumbnails please do!

 

[mwb]

One more pic; here the 'finished' part is locked onto my neighbors bucket. Fits extremely well. I will finish dressing the burrs, etc later.

 

[mykleh]

well let me be the first to say Great Job!! and I noticed on your other thread you said you would consider sending plans on your SS attach to those interesed.... Count me in as #1....

 

[mwb]

Thank you, and I will provide drawings and material list...

Now for the cross tube:


The main difference in this design is the ability to lock and unlock with only one handle. A thin wall torque tube is used to connect the latch levers. When I welded the short levers to the keyed shaft I was careful to align the key the same way. Before welding the torque tube to the hubs I bottomed both levers in the locked position to make sure they are oriented the same way. I turned the V-series 5/8" hubs down to fit inside the 1" steel tube; to avoid lathe work a large pipe size could be used. I preferred to turn the hub down to a light press fit to ensure they were square when welded.



Both sides are done; I have to make a short handle to fit the torque tube and then move on to fitting the QA to my tractor. My dog is a little camera shy


Family will keep me busy until after Easter though

 

[mwb]

Here are some more drawing details and a parts list.

This is not complete yet so changes may be made.

Drawing:
View attachment Quick attach - Universal drawing.pdf

Materials list:
View attachment Quick Attach Parts List.pdf

I have not weighed it yet but in the last picture posted (with the dawg) I can still easily pick it up with one hand. I would estimate it weighs about 60 lbs so far, final weight (with the loader pin - on plates) I hope will be around 100lbs. I will weigh everything when complete.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[gizmo]

Looks interesting, but what is an SS

 

[mwb]

Skid Steer style quick attach for easily releasing your bucket (implement) to attach another. Many manufactures have there own brew of quick attach but the Skid Steer style has become the standard.

I think it was Bobcat who originated this design.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Wasn't the brand name BobTach?

Outstanding work and thanks for the plans and documentation!

 

[gordyy]

great job looking good

 

[jimmysisson]

The spring-loaded pins remind me of the ones on my Ford 2120 qa setup, though they are 1" dia. round pins, and are NOT interconnected. 2 steps required to retract the pins; 1 each side. I really like the spring-loaded for hooking up though, just drive in, raise loader, and curl qa and pins drop in. You'll like that too.
Do you plan to make a cover for the levers and pins? Lube? Or open and dry? On mine it's all open and dry; lube attracts dirt. You do need bucket (or forks, etc.) hanging to relieve pressure to retract the pins, but it's never been a problem.
Nice thinking, and nice work.
Jim

 

[mwb]

Finally back to work on this project.

I had a buddy water cut some mounting plates (bucket side).



Used some rectangular tube to make sure everything is square.


Top plate is 3/8, I stuffed a shim of cardboard (cereal box) between the QA and the 3/8 plate to leave a little clearance. Easier to build it up than it is to remove material.

 

[mwb]

Tacked together. Note that the mounting plate is formed with a relief angle; if your bucket is not square to the tractor this allows you to engage the mounting plate easier. The top corner of the QA will have a button (1/4? on it to center itself better.


Here both sides are tacked together and it is sitting on my bucket.


Bottom view of QA and mounting plate; you can see the clearance angle between the QA and plate.

 

[mwb]

Now preparing for the pin plates (loader and cylinder attachment). You can see that the new QA will actually bring the bucket closer to the pins about 1.5? I don稚 know what I will do with all the extra lift power I will gain! 


here is the pin plate tacked. I will fit it on the loader and check everything first.


This is the only problem that I have to work around. The loader width on my tractor puts the pin plates right on top of the QA linkage (I knew this at design). A crescent cut out will give the needed clearance. On the inside of the cut out I will build a cover plate that will cover the hole and add some structure to the pin plates for side load.

On the QA for the L3400 I will not have a problem with clearance for the QA linkage because the loader arms are spaced further apart, putting the moving parts completely on the inside of the pin plates.

This weekend I should have it ready for paint. I still need to add a handle to the torsion tube (for driving the QA pins). Once this is done then I get the pleasure of cutting the bucket apart.

 

[J_J]

mwb,

On the water jet cutting, do you happen to know the pressure used and what abrasive was used.

 

[mwb]

I don't know the particulars of the jet used; my buddy owns a steel warehouse and fab shop and he is/was considering setting up a water jet. I did some research for him on what it would take to set up (and I was also interested in a homebrew option for myself). The pressure of these is typically between 40K - 80K psi. There are different abrasives you can use depending on what you are cutting but silica and aluminum oxide are very common.

Incredible cut quatlity on this; there is a slight chamfering especially on thicker materials - usually on holes. I was impressed with the accuracy of finished product.

What I did for the mounting plates was I gave my buddy drawings for blank shearing, then a DXF for the water cut (direct import to their CNC) - this was sub'd out to another shop, then a final forming drawing for the bends at the fab shop.

 

[J_J]

Thanks. I have the table for my plasma setup, and a Pro Cut-55 but don't have a place to set it up right now. Plasma also has a slight 3 to 5 degree chamfer.