First time tractor owner here - I just purchased an old Satoh S650G with FEL I looked around for a post about general rules of tractor operation, but if there is one I couldn't find it. What kind of rules can you guys tell me about owning and operating a tractor that might be common knowledge to tractor owners, but not known for a newbie? Things like, are you supposed to let the tractor run at idle for a while before shutting down after hard use? Are you supposed to operate the tractor at full throttle most of the time, like you do with a little briggs powered lawn mower? How do you get a feel for how much of a hillside it is safe to operate on? And so-on. Please fill me in before I make any major mistakes. Thanks.
Tractor rules? - newbie
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RalphVa
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Use whatever rpm is needed to keep from lugging the engine and generally full speed for PTO operations.
No need for extensive idling to warm up unless you live in very cold winter areas or to cool down unless the engine has a turbo charger.
Most important thing in using the FEL is BALANCE. You need both filled tires AND something on the back to balance out what you're lifting in the FEL. Put a weight box on there if you don't have an implement that's 300-400# at least. And GO SLOWLY and carry that FEL as low as possible and be ready to drop it and the anything on the 3ph if you start to tip; leaning towards the corner that wants to tip up can help, too.
Ralph
No need for extensive idling to warm up unless you live in very cold winter areas or to cool down unless the engine has a turbo charger.
Most important thing in using the FEL is BALANCE. You need both filled tires AND something on the back to balance out what you're lifting in the FEL. Put a weight box on there if you don't have an implement that's 300-400# at least. And GO SLOWLY and carry that FEL as low as possible and be ready to drop it and the anything on the 3ph if you start to tip; leaning towards the corner that wants to tip up can help, too.
Ralph
Humbleto
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Icorrell, just take it easy until you are more familiar with the machine. Use only as much throttle as it takes to get the job done. If you are on "hilly" terrain like me, be extra careful if you are turning up or down the incline. It will turn over on you. Does it have roll over protection? I assume it probably does not. Common sense goes a long way with tractors. They do make devices that indicate the angle that you are on and the dangerous angles and at least one is on this website.
You will be amazed at the amount of work you can get done.
Go slow and good luck!
You will be amazed at the amount of work you can get done.
Go slow and good luck!
I've done a good bit of editing work and have read many a manual. In general, your diesel engine should be warmed for at least 5 minutes before you begin operating it. Also, if cold, don't operate the hydraulics until the fluid has had time to warm up. It can damage the pump if you operate the cold, thicker fluid.
I don't agree that a non-tubro diesel doen't require a cool down. A turbo just requires a LONGER cool down. Your engine will have a longer, better life if you idle it at least for a minute or two, and a good bit longer for turbos.
I can't resist addressing the Lean toward the side that lifts comment. If you're on a lawnmower, that might work, but on the average tractor, your weight is not going to be much noticed. Good advice on dropping the FEL / 3pt implement in a hurry. A rollover usually happens much faster than most folks would believe. You only have a few seconds to react.
The thing about keeping the loader low is because carrying high can help with momentum in a rollover, and it would also take longer to get it to the ground. One can roll over on what appears to be flat ground. One example: Loader filled, riding high, one wheel slips into a depression/hole in the ground, over goes the tractor in a blink.
One major safety issue. Roll Over Protection Systems (ROPS). If you have one, use it. When using it, keep your seatbelt on. If you don't have a ROPS, then don't use a seatbelt. In a rollover, with seatbelt and ROPS, you will be held in the "safety zone" of the ROPS. If you don't have your seatbelt on, the ROPS can crush you. If you don't have ROPS and wear a seatbelt, in a rollover, the tractor will crush you as you cannot attempt to jump away.
There is much more that you need to know. One good way would be to try to find some owner's manuals for tractors. They don't have to be for the one you own. Read the safety tips in those. Even a public library may have some you can read.
John
I don't agree that a non-tubro diesel doen't require a cool down. A turbo just requires a LONGER cool down. Your engine will have a longer, better life if you idle it at least for a minute or two, and a good bit longer for turbos.
I can't resist addressing the Lean toward the side that lifts comment. If you're on a lawnmower, that might work, but on the average tractor, your weight is not going to be much noticed. Good advice on dropping the FEL / 3pt implement in a hurry. A rollover usually happens much faster than most folks would believe. You only have a few seconds to react.
The thing about keeping the loader low is because carrying high can help with momentum in a rollover, and it would also take longer to get it to the ground. One can roll over on what appears to be flat ground. One example: Loader filled, riding high, one wheel slips into a depression/hole in the ground, over goes the tractor in a blink.
One major safety issue. Roll Over Protection Systems (ROPS). If you have one, use it. When using it, keep your seatbelt on. If you don't have a ROPS, then don't use a seatbelt. In a rollover, with seatbelt and ROPS, you will be held in the "safety zone" of the ROPS. If you don't have your seatbelt on, the ROPS can crush you. If you don't have ROPS and wear a seatbelt, in a rollover, the tractor will crush you as you cannot attempt to jump away.
There is much more that you need to know. One good way would be to try to find some owner's manuals for tractors. They don't have to be for the one you own. Read the safety tips in those. Even a public library may have some you can read.
John
jbrumberg
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Icorrell:
I have owned and operated a subcompact/compact tractor for over 20 years. I suggest you read posts contained in the Safety Discussion Site here on TBN. I have learned a lot from reading these threads. The global community at TBN has a lot to share due to our respective real life experiences with tractors and tractor attachments. The advise you have already received is solid- keep your weight low and balanced (L-R/F-R) and go slow especially on slopes, wet and depressed/rutted areas. Wear your seatbelt if you have a ROPS. Good Luck- Jay.
I have owned and operated a subcompact/compact tractor for over 20 years. I suggest you read posts contained in the Safety Discussion Site here on TBN. I have learned a lot from reading these threads. The global community at TBN has a lot to share due to our respective real life experiences with tractors and tractor attachments. The advise you have already received is solid- keep your weight low and balanced (L-R/F-R) and go slow especially on slopes, wet and depressed/rutted areas. Wear your seatbelt if you have a ROPS. Good Luck- Jay.
flusher
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Don't know anything about Satoh tractors. The Tisco website indicates that it's a 2240-lb tractor with a 20-hp (PTO) Mazda gas engine. Is the engine diesel or gas?
Check the hoses on that FEL, especially around the connections. You don't want high pressure hydraulic fluid heading in your direction from a leak.
You might think about getting a toothbar for the FEL if it doesn't have one. Markham Welding makes nice removable ones at a decent price.
These small tractors can be tippy. My 21-hp B7510HST with LA302 FEL gives me a thrill when a rear wheel drops into a 6-in deep wheel rut, which ain't very deep. I carry a 240-lb box blade on the 3-pt hitch as ballast. If that's not enough I can add another 360 pounds of concrete weight onto the box blade in 120-lb increments
You'll need practice with your FEL to efficiently scoop up material from a pile (gravel, sand, dirt). Be careful to load the bucket evenly side-to-side when you take a bite or else the tractor may lean. You don't want to twist the FEL arms unnecessarily.
Does it have a ROPS? If not, think about getting one.
Check the hoses on that FEL, especially around the connections. You don't want high pressure hydraulic fluid heading in your direction from a leak.
You might think about getting a toothbar for the FEL if it doesn't have one. Markham Welding makes nice removable ones at a decent price.
These small tractors can be tippy. My 21-hp B7510HST with LA302 FEL gives me a thrill when a rear wheel drops into a 6-in deep wheel rut, which ain't very deep. I carry a 240-lb box blade on the 3-pt hitch as ballast. If that's not enough I can add another 360 pounds of concrete weight onto the box blade in 120-lb increments
You'll need practice with your FEL to efficiently scoop up material from a pile (gravel, sand, dirt). Be careful to load the bucket evenly side-to-side when you take a bite or else the tractor may lean. You don't want to twist the FEL arms unnecessarily.
Does it have a ROPS? If not, think about getting one.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is the engine diesel or gas? )</font>
I wasn't paying enough attention to the model number when I read the post. The S650G is gas. Satoh made several models, some of the with diesel engines, but would have the D in the model number as they have the G in the gas version.
I've seen the HP listed as 20 and 25, not sure which is correct.
John
I wasn't paying enough attention to the model number when I read the post. The S650G is gas. Satoh made several models, some of the with diesel engines, but would have the D in the model number as they have the G in the gas version.
I've seen the HP listed as 20 and 25, not sure which is correct.
John
1948berg
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Tractor operating is more or less the same thing as ***, you can read all about it, ask questions and make plans, but nothing beats the real thing!!
LeadPoison
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Too bad tractor operation is a "solo" activity!
proudestmonkey
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Since my wife refused to read the manual on our new little tractor, I did a google search for "Tractor safety" there are tons of pdf files on safety.
One thing I'd be thinking about, even if your older tractor does not have a ROPS (rollover protection system), which is basically a rollerover bar and a seat belt, see if you can attach one. One of the reasons I really wanted a new tractor is because my JD riding lawn mower didn't have one and I nearly rolled it a few times last year.
One thing I'd be thinking about, even if your older tractor does not have a ROPS (rollover protection system), which is basically a rollerover bar and a seat belt, see if you can attach one. One of the reasons I really wanted a new tractor is because my JD riding lawn mower didn't have one and I nearly rolled it a few times last year.
JerryG
Super Member
<font color="blue"> Too bad tractor operation is a "solo" activity! </font>
We have a member with a two seater tractor.
We have a member with a two seater tractor.
frank_f15
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KIOTIJOHN pretty much says it all bu ti will add one thing JUST THINK BEFORE !!!!!
Henro
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<font color="blue"> I suggest you read posts contained in the Safety Discussion Site here on TBN. </font>
This is the first thing that popped into my mind too as far as what the "rules" should be.
In addition, reading some other sites where reports exist on various tractor accidents can be worthwhile too. One I remember in particular is where a guy was backing up on a tractor without a rops, and forgot about a low limb on a tree...it was a gear tractor...squeezed him between the streering wheel and the limb...fatality.
Backflips when tires are frozen to the ground was another surprise for me when I was doing some reading as a new tractor owner.
Read and understand how a tractor is VERY different than a car or truck. In my opinion this should be one of the rules for newbies...
This is the first thing that popped into my mind too as far as what the "rules" should be.
In addition, reading some other sites where reports exist on various tractor accidents can be worthwhile too. One I remember in particular is where a guy was backing up on a tractor without a rops, and forgot about a low limb on a tree...it was a gear tractor...squeezed him between the streering wheel and the limb...fatality.
Backflips when tires are frozen to the ground was another surprise for me when I was doing some reading as a new tractor owner.
Read and understand how a tractor is VERY different than a car or truck. In my opinion this should be one of the rules for newbies...
RoyJackson
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"Backflips when tires are frozen to the ground was another surprise for me"
I read about this kind of accident when I bought my 670 four years ago. The one I read about was a farmer operating a larger utility tractor in Iowa (if I recall correctly). The tractor had been left in a field. When started the next day, the farmer put it in a forward gear and the machine just rotated around the axle. The tires had frozen to the ground.
That's a heck of a thing, isn't it?
I read about this kind of accident when I bought my 670 four years ago. The one I read about was a farmer operating a larger utility tractor in Iowa (if I recall correctly). The tractor had been left in a field. When started the next day, the farmer put it in a forward gear and the machine just rotated around the axle. The tires had frozen to the ground.
That's a heck of a thing, isn't it?
jimainiac
Platinum Member
I sympathize with your predicament. When we got our first tractor I didn't know what half of the levers did. The most important thing is to maintain a healthy respect for the tractor as you get familiar with operating it. As others have said, it's important to keep weight on the rear to counter the loader, and filled rear tires or wheel weights can help to lower the center of gravity. Also, most tractors' rear wheels can be adjusted for different widths. It's best to put them at their widest setting for operating on side hills.
Another really important thing; don't try to shift gears going up or down a hill. If you can't get it back in gear you'll go for a wild freewheeling ride that may not end well.
As others have said, there's a lot of information about tractor safety on the web.
Another really important thing; don't try to shift gears going up or down a hill. If you can't get it back in gear you'll go for a wild freewheeling ride that may not end well.
As others have said, there's a lot of information about tractor safety on the web.
kozak
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RoyJackson,
That is WILD !! Back tires stationary & the tractor just does a 360 degree flip. INCREDIBLE. Must have been 4 wheel drive.
Vic
That is WILD !! Back tires stationary & the tractor just does a 360 degree flip. INCREDIBLE. Must have been 4 wheel drive.
Vic
kozak
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NO, this is even more insane, the back tires frozen.....& tractor just turned over on the rear drive shaft !! ??
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( NO, this is even more insane, the back tires frozen.....& tractor just turned over on the rear drive shaft !! ??
)</font>
The larger tractor was most likely two wheel drive. Four wheel wouldn't have made a lot of difference anyway.
The rear axle is like a fulcrum. Power forward with the rear tires locked into position and the tractor has to do something, and that something is to try to rotate the tires forward, lifting the front end sending it back over the fulcrum. It only takes moments to happen, and of course by the time one realizes what's happening, often it is too late.
John
)</font>
The larger tractor was most likely two wheel drive. Four wheel wouldn't have made a lot of difference anyway.
The rear axle is like a fulcrum. Power forward with the rear tires locked into position and the tractor has to do something, and that something is to try to rotate the tires forward, lifting the front end sending it back over the fulcrum. It only takes moments to happen, and of course by the time one realizes what's happening, often it is too late.
John
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( RoyJackson,
That is WILD !! Back tires stationary & the tractor just does a 360 degree flip. )</font>
It would only actually be a 180 degree flip. The ground would prevent it from going any further. Although unlikely, because the operator would have to do several things wrong, it is certainly possible. I happened to go get a tractor that had been stuck the day before and this nearly happened. Fortunately the "doesn't feel right" part of me kicked in. The engine really, really lugged and it wouldn't move. I applied more power and went to slip the clutch more and it still wouldn't move. I then went to the lowest gear range and lowest gear and each time I went to let the clutch out the front raised. Weird! Each time I'd jam the clutch back down and the front would slam back to the ground rather violently. It took me 2 or 3 trys before I realized what was going on. I'd never heard any story about this before, but I figured out what was happening and didn't mash myself.
I suppose if the tractor had enough power and you just dumped the clutch it could go over relatively fast. Or, if you didn't have the reaction to jam the clutch down when the front slowly raised in low gear, low range, you could go on over. Maybe I was fortunate, but when it just "didn't feel right", I got off and began thinking about the situation.
That is WILD !! Back tires stationary & the tractor just does a 360 degree flip. )</font>
It would only actually be a 180 degree flip. The ground would prevent it from going any further. Although unlikely, because the operator would have to do several things wrong, it is certainly possible. I happened to go get a tractor that had been stuck the day before and this nearly happened. Fortunately the "doesn't feel right" part of me kicked in. The engine really, really lugged and it wouldn't move. I applied more power and went to slip the clutch more and it still wouldn't move. I then went to the lowest gear range and lowest gear and each time I went to let the clutch out the front raised. Weird! Each time I'd jam the clutch back down and the front would slam back to the ground rather violently. It took me 2 or 3 trys before I realized what was going on. I'd never heard any story about this before, but I figured out what was happening and didn't mash myself.
I suppose if the tractor had enough power and you just dumped the clutch it could go over relatively fast. Or, if you didn't have the reaction to jam the clutch down when the front slowly raised in low gear, low range, you could go on over. Maybe I was fortunate, but when it just "didn't feel right", I got off and began thinking about the situation.
DGS
Silver Member
If you have your tires frozen in the ground use reverse in the lowest range that the machine will do.
When the power is applied it will force the front down instead of lifting the front up.
It will usually break your rear tires free.
If it doesent you are really really stuck and you should get another machine to assist getting you moving again.
I learned this from an old timer and he said it was the only safe way to do this.
Makes sense to me.
DGS
When the power is applied it will force the front down instead of lifting the front up.
It will usually break your rear tires free.
If it doesent you are really really stuck and you should get another machine to assist getting you moving again.
I learned this from an old timer and he said it was the only safe way to do this.
Makes sense to me.
DGS
