Top link on BX2200

[HeliMark]

Wondering how many have encountered this problem. The top link on my tractor has always been very difficult to adjust, with or without the box blade on. Now, after I adjusted the link out (in a place that I have used before several times), moved and leveled 15 tons of rock, I can not adjust one side of the link. I have been able to get the one side to move (the other side is fine), using a long handle monkey wrench.

I am planning to visit my local dealer and see if there is a better top link then the factory one.

Will take any other suggestions.

By the way, the BX2200 does ROCK!

-Mark

 

[Charliebrn]

Hmmm. You do realize that one end of the top link is supposed to be locked by a nut at the end that must be loosened to adjust the top link, right? Just checking....

Other than that, THe link should move easily while attached to something, and that would require BOTH sides to be loose.

 

[HeliMark]

That is the end that has the problems. The nut turns with no problem, and is out of the way. Maybe somehow I jammed it, and the threads are messed up.

At the cost of a replacement, I'am really not sure if I should just elboe grease it and see if it will loosen up.

 

[NYTrainer]

Have you taken the top link off and tried to turn the threads?I was toying with the idea of opening the toplink all the way and using white lube or something on the threads.
When you try to shorten or lengthen the toplink with an attachment hooked up it can take a real finesse to adjust it. With the box blade, for example, I find it easy to drop the box all the way down and then press the hydro pedal (in reverse if you want to lengthen it or forward to shorten it) just enough to take the load off the toplink. I can then turn the toplink by hand fairly easy. You may have to slightly "rock it" (the hydro pedal) between reverse and "neutral" position as you turn the toplink. It can be real frustrating until you get the finesse part down and it sure makes the T&T option look real good. I'm just waiting for another BXer to install one first so I can learn from them. I would follow Charliebrn or Trescrows lead on that one./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
David

 

[Bird]

Doesn't your top link have a grease fitting on it? The original top link on my B2710 had a grease fitting in the middle. If you lengthened it all the way; i.e., screwed the ends out, then filled it with grease, it could be quite difficult to screw back in; i.e., shorten, because it had to force the surplus grease out around the threads as they went in.

Bird

 

[Anonymous Poster]

had same problem with top link on b7300hst, picked up a unv. one at ace hardware for $23.00 had to cut down end that goes to the tractor, but it was a h/d one. put the bad top link back on the b7300hst when i traded it in on a b7500hst. it had plug in hole where fitting should have been, top link on the b7500hst has the fitting.

 

[copierguy]

I think I remember reading another link a few weeks back about a BX2200 with top link thread problems on one end. Might have been a bad batch, or poor horse power to strength ratio....?

copier guy

 

[HeliMark]

The top link does not come with a grease fitting. There are two screws in it, but I believe those are only for limiting the travel.

I usually set the box blade down in a manner to relieve the pressure as it is the only way it would turn. Boy would I love to have that T&T with some of the grading I am doing.

Had a quote of $127 for a new one from the local dealer. A dealer about 30 miles from me has an aftermarket one that has a rod that you put in the middle to turn it, for $30. If I can not "break" it loose, think I will get the aftermarket one and put white grease on it (thanks for the suggestion NYtrainer).

Mark

 

[TresCrows]

Actually I believe those two screw holes were put there to allow the Kubota factory to use a drift punch inserted into the two holes to smash the threads with the threaded rods at their extended positions to prevent overextending the link and or having it thread apart. The screw are then inserted to prevent trash/water/etc from entering. Yes, I know this because using considerable force and techniques I perhaps should not mention in mixed company I was able to take mine apart and observe the punch marks or what was left of them after I threaded the thing apart. It is possible that one could install a grease zerk at either of these locations or a more central position. It may well be the link was punched to low on the thread and it is binding before it SHOULD BIND or that you are attempting to overextend the link. It is also possible that with a heavy load on the link like a boxblade that some force or leaverage will normally be needed--I use a Crescent wrench I carry stuck into the handle to turn mine. J

 

[HeliMark]

Unfortunately it looks like somehow the threads are just screwed up. With the family gone, all the family varmits staying away from me, and a breaker bar, I was able to retract the one end almost all the way (box blade off). Thought that it may have been overextended, although I have worked it in that position numerous times before without a problem. Nope, still need the breaker bar.

Oh well.