Top Link Indicator

[SEJones720]

Hey everyone! This is my first post, and I hope someone can give me some thoughts and ideas. I have watched the Dave Knows How videos on setting up a box blade and especially the one about making up a hydraulic top link indicator to see at a glance if your box blade is level and in a neutral position. However, I’m not a welder. So I’m looking for ideas on how to cobble together a rod attached to the top link cylinder and riding thru a loop or eye bolt mounted on the top link rod. If you’ve done such a thing, pictures would be great!

OR…would it be simpler to just draw a line around the top link rod at the neutral position with a magic marker? Is that something can be done without damage to the top link? Any thoughts would be welcome.

I have a Kioti DK4210SE.

Thanks.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just a suggestion. Try looking at the implement instead of the top link cylinder.

In reality, it really does not matter where the rod is, everything is related to the implement and the ground.

 

[masscity]

This way may be crude, but it works great. Didn't cost much.

 

[Citydude]

This way may be crude, but it works great. Didn't cost much.

That pretty cool.

 

[SEJones720]

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I’ll give something along those lines a try.

 

[rScotty]

This way may be crude, but it works great. Didn't cost much.

Nice ! I've got a similar metal flag mounted on the top of my FEL bucket that simply repeats the angle of the bottom of the bucket. It's just an eyeball aid, but it is visible when the bucket bottom is not. Real handy.

 

[ovrszd]

You can't draw a line around the rod. Well,,,,, you can,,,,, but it will be wiped off the first time the cylinder collapses past the line.

I'm not sure you will benefit much from an indicator on the top link. As others have stated, you'll get more good from watching the implement.

I built an indicator for my side link. I was very excited about it. I never use it. Instead I look at the result I'm getting to determine if I need to change tilt.

But it might give you ideas.

 

[MF243RedTop]

I see what you are trying to accomplish with a indicator... But that experience comes with more seat time.. if you were doing some very fine grading for sand or something really important I can see it.

You want a simple version attach a small rod, yard stick anything that small enough to attach above the eye of the top link and point back towards the cylinder.. adjust it with the blade level to the point when it crosses plane with the cylinder that will be your level point. Seems more logical since you spend most of the time looking back... down towards the work the blade is doing.
I would suggest sitting in seat and looking back to get it to the point you desire before attaching by tack welds or other means.
A small rod, maybe a small clearance block of steel a nut or pipe to run it through and maybe a nut on top of you want it adjustable... You can drill a hole tap it or weld a smaller nut on top with a set bolt.

Just make sure it has clearance above the cylinder and won't make contact with it or hydro fittings when let in all the way.

Red clearance block if needed, blue pipe or nut, pink rod, green set point for adjustment

Small tack welds on that rod end is fine you're not getting anything hot enough to worry about.

 

[masscity]

I see what you are trying to accomplish with a indicator... But that experience comes with more seat time.. if you were doing some very fine grading for sand or something really important I can see it.

You want a simple version attach a small rod, yard stick anything that small enough to attach above the eye of the top link and point back towards the cylinder.. adjust it with the blade level to the point when it crosses plane with the cylinder that will be your level point. Seems more logical since you spend most of the time looking back... down towards the work the blade is doing.
I would suggest sitting in seat and looking back to get it to the point you desire before attaching by tack welds or other means.
A small rod, maybe a small clearance block of steel a nut or pipe to run it through and maybe a nut on top of you want it adjustable... You can drill a hole tap it or weld a smaller nut on top with a set bolt.

Just make sure it has clearance above the cylinder and won't make contact with it or hydro fittings when let in all the way.View attachment 796105
Red clearance block if needed, blue pipe or nut, pink rod, green set point for adjustment

Small tack welds on that rod end is fine you're not getting anything hot enough to worry about.

The reason I have my level the way I do is I'm 76 years old and have bad arthritis in my spine. Also from my sitting position the blade on the box blade is blocked by the frame bar.

Before I had this I had to get off of the tractor to see and adjust it.

I ended up having to buy a zero turn mower, because I couldn't turn around to and back up to my mower or boxblade and hook them up.

 

[oosik]

Don't worry about the position of the top link. Look at what the implement is doing on the ground and make top link adjustments accordingly.