Toolbox and Lights for my JD4100

[JimmyO]

Yes you can definitely weld aluminum with a Mig. However to get good results the use of a shielding gas is neccesary. Aluminum Mig welds done with a wire that is self shielded(ie does not use a gas) look bad and are not nearly as strong. And because of aluminum's softness it helps tremendously to use a spool gun, as the aluminum tends to bindup in a typical 15' mig lead. Where the tig really shines is on thin material and on outside corners. On inside corners the mig definitely has the advantage as the wire feeds right through the center of the torch. With the tig it is often very difficult to get the torch and the wire in since they have to come in from different angles. Hopes this helps.

Jimmy

 

[Bob_Trevithick]

Hi Terry,

<font color=blue>...Wow, I didn't expect this much traffic on my post. But that's cool, TBNers are a great bunch of people.</font color=blue>

They sure are!

Sorry I got your topic off target a bit.. hopefully people will still show up with 4100 light setups, which was your original request! /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

You'll have a great setup when you're done, I'm sure!

Best,
Bob

Bob Trevithick

 

[Anonymous Poster]

http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/MP24/MP24664________UN12APR01.gif
John Deere - Parts

Catalog: 2654 | Grid : C24 | Section: 40 | Page: 18
Catalog Name: 4100 COMPACT UTILITY TRACTOR
Page Name: WIRING HARNESS



<pre> PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 4100G 4100H 4100N REMARKS
1 M807483 COVER 1
2 19M7964 CAP SCREW 3 M8 X 12
3 M807462 LINK 1
4 CH13189 CLAMP 4
M800307 CLAMP 1
5 M807894 CABLE 1 (POSITIVE)
6 M807463 BOLT 2
7 M807895 GROUND CABLE 1
8 M807893 WIRING HARNESS 1
9 M807453 FUSE BOX 1 (INCLUDES FUSES)
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 4100G 4100H 4100N REMARKS
M808593 FUSE 2 10 AMP
M808594 FUSE 1 15 AMP
M808595 FUSE 1 20 AMP
10 M809070 WIRING HARNESS 1 X X (SUB FOR M807890)
M809075 WIRING HARNESS 1 X (SUB FOR M807896)
11 M807465 HOSE CLAMP 1
12 M807378 BOLT 1
13 CH16579 CLAMP 4
14 M807891 WIRING HARNESS 1 X X
M809076 WIRING HARNESS 1 X (SUB FOR M807897)
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. 4100G 4100H 4100N REMARKS
15 M807892 WIRING HARNESS 1
16 M808579 TUBE 1 X
17 12M7065 LOCK WASHER 3 8 MM
18 T114319 DIODE 2 (BLUE)
19 LVU800146 DIODE 1 (BLACK)

</pre>

_______________
Terry, I have access to most everything on JD back to about 1940, but schematics are in printed manuals {I only have JD5205}. This is the wiring harness for the 4100, but very hard to decipher...{basically pictorial layout... that's about it...}

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Muhammad on 12/18/01 08:19 AM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...a company called Upright Scaffolds...</font color=blue>

I picked up one of those at an auction this past summer... I need a pawl for one side {broken}... I can put the darn thing up, but the spring is broken in the pawl and it won't come down unless I manually push it... {have you ever taken a "Jack-in-a-box or toaster" apart....? and parts go flying?} /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

I guess the company was bought out by United Rental and they were as helpful as **** on a boar hog... they could rent or sell me a new unit for $1500-2200... /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

I need a $1 dollar part... any available on the West Coast? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Harv]

<font color=blue>the company was bought out by United Rental</font color=blue> (Upright Scaffold)

A mere 30 years and I've already lost track of what happened to that company, but I somehow doubt they were bought by a rental outfit. Upright was a full-blown manufacturing concern consisting of a foundry (made all their own castings and fittings), production lines, R&D facility, etc. Rental yards were their main customers.

Besides every kind of scaffold, tower and scissor lift you can think of, they also had a line of grape harvesting machines. Wish I had pictures of those things. They were about 2 stories high so they could straddle rows of grapevines, which they could then harvest as they drove along. They sold a bunch to France, but it turns out French vineyards are built on hillsides, and our harvesters had a tendency to topple over. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif The solution was totally cool -- each "leg" was made hydraulic and all were controlled by sensors which kept the machine level no matter what the terrain.

Let's see ... what were we talking about? Oh yeah! Welders, toolboxes 'n' stuff like that. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MikePA]

I've been coming to Pittsburgh about every month, for 3 - 4 days at a time, for the past 2 years, as have several others from the company where I work. This is due to a merger between my original company based in central PA and a company located in Pgh.

So, we've been to many of the great restaurants (and not so great /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif) in and around Pgh. PapaJs, 1902, Primante (sp?) Brothers, etc. Downtown, Station Square, Southside, the area is filled with great places to eat as well as great sports teams to see in action. I've been to see the Pirates (new stadium is gorgeous...and expensive) and Penguins play, but not the Steelers.

Anyway, back to the topic...I encased the wire I ran to the battery in some of that black corrugated sheathing, the kind with a split down its length. I noticed that all the other wires that ran from the engine compartment to the back of the tractor were protected in this manner, so I thought I'd better follow suit.

 

[TerryinMD]

John,

Thanks for the diagram. Interesting.... clear as mud. If they only labeled the connectors...

What was this captured from?

To everyone else, thank you for the complements and suggestions.

Terry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...What was this captured from?...</font color=blue>

JD 4100 parts manual...

 

[DFB]

Terry, like Mike has already detailed a fused circuit direct from the battery is probably the easiest way to power the additional lights.

Specs on the headlights are 37.5W and the tailight are 5W

What size fuse is in the light circuit now?

DFB

 

[Anonymous Poster]

{Disregard... this is a test image size}
Reduced Harness Image Size

 

[TerryinMD]

John,

Works much better.

Easier to work with a separate page to compare the table agains the diagram.

The JD Part Manual you reference, is it the one that is contained on the CD? If it is, do you consider it a good purchase.

Terry

 

[TerryinMD]

DFB,

Depends - here's the rundown.

Fuse Identification:

· 10 Amp Fuse - Engine Glow Plugs and Starter

· 10 Amp Fuse - Accessories

· 15 Amp Fuse - Flasher, Warning Lamps

· 20 Amp Fuse - Headlight and Taillight Lamps

Hmmm... just noticed something. Accessories - I don't have any. Need to trace this circuit. May have the answer.

Terry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...is it the one that is contained on the CD...</font color=blue>

I don't know, but would assume so, I don't own any of their cd's... check with Hillbilly... he purchased the CD.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I noticed in the parts manual for the "Rear Worklight kit", they have a "scotch splice"... normally only used for existing circuits... which at the ROPS would be the "tail-lamps"

On my JD, there's extra pigtails under the operator's seat {believe purple color coded} for the rear work lamp circuit. I also wired/mounted switches on the lamps individually to turn on/off independent of each other.

I posted a picture somewhere on TBN of the mounting and switch hookup...

 

[TerryinMD]

John,

Couldn't remember if it was you that had gotten the CD.

Yes, I have two unused connectors near the seat that I metered. Both give 12v when the lights are turned on. I would like to have the auxilliary (silly me stated extra /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif) lights on their own circuit and work independently of the headlights and warning lights.

Terry

I'll look up your posts for mounting/switch hookup.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Terry,

You have to remember... the only time you'll use the rear lamps is when it's dark anyways.... /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif {so putting it on with the headlamps makes sense...}

So, it really doesn't matter what circuit you tie into, as long as it will handle the load, and each 55 watt lamp draws about 4.5 amps... and installing individual switches are a piece of cake...

 

[jimgerken]

Re: ...independent Lights for my JD4100

How about plugging them into the plugs under the seat so they have power when the regular lights come on, but then open each light fixture case and add a switch so it is also independently switched. If J.D. provided these two plugs (I assume for their optional worklight kit), there should not be a current supply problem, but you'll know if the fuse blows. I can't imagine needing the two new worklights and not needing the headlights, as far as making them truely independent. I have the 4100 also , and this is my plan. I will mount them on the provided holes on the top of the ROPS, on the underside, if there is enough room so I don't hit my head on them. One facing forward, one backward.

 

[TerryinMD]

John,

Yes, this is true. However, the FEL makes the front lights almost useless.

Hmmm... maybe I need to rethink again. Arrrrghhhh! Making a mountain out of molehill! /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Terry

 

[Thomas]

Terry,
Years ago Ford install lights on the FEL arms in which gave good lighting...kinda like the big Cat loaders now a days...maybe this will help.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[MikePA]

I used the work light pigtail NH had already installed on my tractor to power my two rear worklights. NH only supplies one light, I installed 2 lights. It has power when the ignition is on and I installed a switch. I don't know about the others (perhaps I'm odd /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif) but when I initially thought about how I'd use a work light I was just thinking I'd use the light when hooking up an implement. But JM III makes a good point (doesn't he always /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif), e.g., you're plowing snow with a FEL and a rear blade. You're going to need both the rear lights and the FEL lights, plus the headlights. So it makes sense to have them all on at the same time. But that's alot of amps going through one switch, so I'd definitely recommend a relay. Four lights at 55 watts each = 18.3 amps. I'm glad I have 2 separate circuits.