Took me less than two hours to

/ Took me less than two hours to #1  

Steve_Miller

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2004
Messages
1,352
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
Tractor
2006 Kioti CK30HST
Bend the tie rod on my new CK30. Was there a new modified version on the latest CK25/30's for the tie rod placement or tie rod itself?. The one I have was a leftover 2006, couldn't pass up on trading in the old CK20 and moving up.

Steve
 

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/ Took me less than two hours to #2  
You've got the little te-rod. The newer ones are a larger diameter than the nuts. It looks interchangable with the only difference being the bigger rod diameter but I would rather bend the rod than break the hub ear.

Welcome to the club. Did you even feel it happen?
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #3  
Highbeam said:
.......but I would rather bend the rod than break the hub ear.


I concur. I'd rather the rod be the weak link. It can happen on any tractor. One of my co-workers has a TC35 w/Ags, much higher ground clearance but he still bent his. If you had higher clearance you'd just try to drive over higher obstacles. Put it in a vise, bend 'er back, re-install and adjust alignment as needed.
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #4  
You'll need some heat to bend it back unless you are super man. It is solid and very stiff. A new one is not too expensive. Heck, I've even got a new one on the shelf for a back up so they must not have been too much money.

Be careful not to rip the tie rod end boot when you pickle fork the end off.
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #5  
How bout putting a chain around it, tying it to a tree and putting the gear selector in R for "repair" :~}
Theres always one in the crowd......
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #6  
Highbeam said:
Be careful not to rip the tie rod end boot when you pickle fork the end off.
They have tie rod end pullers that aren't much more than a pickle fork and will save the boots on parts you want to reinstall, sometimes one can get lucky backing tie rod taper nut off flush and smacking it squarely with a hammer...given theres clearance for a good swing with a 5# hammer.
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #7  
There's no need to straighten it; you'll just bend it again.

The tractor doesn't know it is bent, just adjust the toe in (about 1/2" as I remember, check) and that's it.

No kidding, mine even looks better bent, it looks like it was made that way to give the most clearance.

Mike
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #8  
TractorLegend said:
They have tie rod end pullers that aren't much more than a pickle fork and will save the boots on parts you want to reinstall, sometimes one can get lucky backing tie rod taper nut off flush and smacking it squarely with a hammer...given theres clearance for a good swing with a 5# hammer.

I haven't done a tractor tie rod yet, but many trucks and atv's. I always smack the side of the spindle with the hammer, not the tie rod stud. If the tires off the ground putting a little pulling pressure on the tie rod end the end will usually pop right out.

I also have a couple tools that works great for removing them as long as they fit the particular tie rod end.

American Presto TIE ROD END AND BALL JOINT REMOVAL TOOLS : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #9  
I let the bucket lead the way when I go in to un-charted territory.
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #10  
RedRocker said:
I let the bucket lead the way when I go in to un-charted territory.

Me too, even when brushhogging fields I set the loader down low engough to snag rocks or stumps before the tie rod. This also reduces hitting mole mounds with the mower.
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #11  
I bent my tierod last year. I heated it up in and straightened it in a vise. This did weaken the tierod and it bent again even worse about a month ago. I knew the day would come, so I had bought a new one from the dealer.

For me.. straighten it out to get yourself back up and running.. then buy a new one for a backup.

Anyone have a skid plate attachement idea for the CK25??
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #12  
you can heat it but it will be weaker after that. I used a press to straighten mine................three times. The boots on the ball joints will tear with a ball joint fork. At you local auto parts store go to the "Help me" section. They have boots that will work fine for a couple of bucks each
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #13  
rmahlert said:
Anyone have a skid plate attachement idea for the CK25??

Yep, a must at my place.
 

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/ Took me less than two hours to #14  
Nice work RedRocker. Too bad there isn't a big market for it - would make a nice niche business and maybe some good $$ for you. I'm surprized you didn't paint it orange ;).
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #15  
Very nice work Redrocker! An underside view would be nice too ;) !
 
/ Took me less than two hours to #16  
An old Jeepers trick... Straighten the tie rod best you can. Then, set your toe-in. Now, weld a pies of 1"-1.5" angle iron on there. It will strengthen it, and if placed correctly, act as a skid too.

Common issue with hard rock 4x4's...

rmahlert said:
I bent my tierod last year. I heated it up in and straightened it in a vise. This did weaken the tierod and it bent again even worse about a month ago. I knew the day would come, so I had bought a new one from the dealer.

For me.. straighten it out to get yourself back up and running.. then buy a new one for a backup.

Anyone have a skid plate attachement idea for the CK25??
 

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