I was able to reclaim a couple of really rocky areas with the landscape rake and the modified rock bucket. I think the toothed bucket will work best in loose soil and for hard soil with loose rock on top a smooth edge bucket would be best. Cheers
I think you are right. That's how I ended up with two rock buckets.
I'd love to see some before and after pictures of the work you did.
On our Woods Landscape rake it turns out that there are a couple of oddities with the design that I suspect have kept it from ever being a more popular implement. The Woods is the best one I know of, but it may be possible that it can be improved.
1. The trailing wheels are very close to the rake tines. If there is a reason for that I can't figure what it would be. It's easy to make the trailing arms any length, and there might be an advantage in making the length adjustable. So why were they made as one length and that so close? As the rake hops around the wheels get pushed sideways enough to interfere with the tines.
My thought is that the wheels should normally be rolling on raked ground a foot behind the tines or blade - whichever one is in use.
I've ordered a couple of pieces of 3"x3" x 1/4" x18" angle iron to extend the wheels farther back.
2. I have no idea how in the world that the manufacturer expected one person to raise and lower the grader blade accessory attachment. Or to latch it in place. The grader blade is a clever extra feature, but way too heavy for one guy. As is, I raise it by lowering the whole rake onto a stump and latching it in place with a chain. Will have to come up with something better.
3. I think the angling pivot needs work. It's awfully sloppy - but the parts book doesn't show the expected quarter inch wall bushing I thought might be missing.... so maybe it is supposed to be sloppy. I'll hold off on that until #1 and 2 are done.
rScotty
