Tired Ford 3000 engine......

   / Tired Ford 3000 engine...... #31  
I did a head job on my Zetor 5245 last winter, it had burned valves due to lack of cooling water...
dismantling all the bonnet sheetmetal, fuel lines etcetera, was just as much work as the actual head job.
I brought the three monoheads to a rebuild shop, they polished the valve/valve seats for 4 euro per valve, head gaskets and water, intake and exhaust manifolds totalled about 60 Euro. grinding (flattening) the heads was also somewhere near 15 Euro per head.

It's not that hard to do, and isnt expensive either. You could help teh mechanics by removing the sheetmetal etcetera to speed up the process, and let them do the actual head mounting with a torque wrench, and adjust valve clearance. Then you can mount manifolds and water hoses etcetera.
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine...... #32  
I did a head job on my Zetor 5245 last winter, it had burned valves due to lack of cooling water...
dismantling all the bonnet sheetmetal, fuel lines etcetera, was just as much work as the actual head job.
I brought the three monoheads to a rebuild shop, they polished the valve/valve seats for 4 euro per valve, head gaskets and water, intake and exhaust manifolds totalled about 60 Euro. grinding (flattening) the heads was also somewhere near 15 Euro per head.

It's not that hard to do, and isnt expensive either. You could help teh mechanics by removing the sheetmetal etcetera to speed up the process, and let them do the actual head mounting with a torque wrench, and adjust valve clearance. Then you can mount manifolds and water hoses etcetera.
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine...... #33  
Renze, When you go back with the heads, what thickness head gasket do you use, or does a 5245 have a choice? I know like a 3320 does.

Chuck
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine...... #34  
Chuck, i asked my dealer if i had to use 1,5 or 1,2 mm gaskets. My dealer gave me 1.2 and said that was advisable.
Later on, i bought a workshop manual and the manual said that the gasket thickness was depending on the piston/head clearance.
Anyways, the piston doesnt pop out of the liner in upper dead point, and the head is flat. so collison of valve and piston is impossible.

I also mounted a radiator of our first Zetor, a 5718 which was wrecked for parts. I was told the fine mazed radiators caused trouble in the 5245, and that was true: With the older radiator i can plough 3 furrow 16" reversible, continuously on full power at 30 °C outside temperature, when you can see on the temp gauge that the thermostat is opening and closing...
Making it run cooler with more power, seated the piston rings so well that there is no oil consumption at all in 100 hrs, and the cooler oil has the result that the oil is black though, but still has the viscosity like new oil...

Sometimes leaking rings just need to burn clean by hard working, to seal off better.

There is also an oil addition, which helps lubricating old rings and solves carbon buildup in the ring grooves.
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine......
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Man, taking that thing apart is a dog! I guess I assumed it would be easy....WRONG. Why did they put the bracket that holds the fuel tank and dash sheet metal on the BACK of the head!?

Since mine is a Select O Speed, I'd have to disconnect the PTO control and leave the tranny selector "hanging" just to take off the fuel tank and sheet metal. Uggg....must be another way. And the steering wheel has to be removed.....

Right now, I'm thinking of just disconnecting the tank/sheet metal and pulling the head while the bracket is still on. Will save the time of having to pull the tank/dash/steering wheel.

Those engineers....why did they put that bracket on the back of the head..... Now I know why I LOVE my John Deere's....
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine...... #36  
The old ford engineers were actually pretty good.. compaired tot he new holland engineers. They do some pretty boneheaded stuff these days... wires running loose under the tractor with spade terminal disconnetcs and such...and if they pop apart.. your big huge tractor is crippled and stranded... That's not where i would run all the critical wireing... especially on a tractor that you know is going to be driving thru brush with a mower.. etc.

Soundguy
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine......
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Ah yes..... FINALY got the head off- bearly 9:30pm (July 3rd) or so when it happend. Gotta love air tools....and forklifts. :D I don't think the coolet was ever drained before...if so, that green gunk that eventually rolled out was discusting!

Any how, inital inspection looked promising. There was no ridge, at least from feeling in the semi darkness. Most of the cylinder bore was smooth as can be...at least near the top. Pistons were fairly clean....a little soot.

After a flashlight inspection....found out the block is toast. #1 cylinder has "gouges" in it. It looks like the rod pin got loose and moved back and forth. I'm hazzarding a guess that this has never been rebuilt...and if it has, who ever did it either 1) did not care about the gouges-just put the engine back w/ new rings 2) or didn't happen then but did eventually.

My buddy helping pretty much agrees the block is toast. I don't think it can be machined for an over bore, let alone maching and relined. I told myself that if the block came out, I'd put a rem. engine. Why mess w/ the old one...... (Gonna have another friend-a diesel mechanic- look at it...maybe it just looks bad...or just me and wishful thinking). As I said...it was dark. But 4 'gouges' in the bore.....

Gonna have to chat w/ a Select-O-Speed 'expert' mechanic about a larger engine mounted to it..... Was told the place that sells parts for this harvester, the guys there know a bit about the SOS tranny...I'll go pick their brain...
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine......
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Gouges are deep....mechanic buddy estimates eighty thousandths. Looks like its been opened up before, maybe for a ring job. So who knows if the pin moved recently or an old "wound". The other harvesters had a 4000 on top (46 PTO HP vs 38 PTO HP). Moving on to a "different" engine w/ a bit more power (pending chatting w/ the SOS guy). And then it's off to the NH dealer.....
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine...... #39  
That little change in hp doesn't sound too bad.. I'm guessing your 'good working' sos shouldn't have a problem assuming everything mates up.. etc.

soundguy
 
   / Tired Ford 3000 engine......
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Soundguy said:
That little change in hp doesn't sound too bad.. I'm guessing your 'good working' sos shouldn't have a problem assuming everything mates up.. etc.

soundguy


Actually, I want 50-55 PTO HP..... was thinking of a 4630 engine. It's only 12 or so more HP. Thursday I plan to chat w/ the SOS guys....

And as you said, if it will mate up. I'm "assuming" the crank shaft bolt pattern is similar, a long with the bell housing.
 

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