Tired Ford 3000 engine......

[Kaliburz]

Well, gave her a go this morning after a high/mid 30's night. It took about 5 good tries to get her to get going. The initial 15 seconds of heating the manual suggested didn't work. Had to go 4 or 5 times and just held the jumper I made in place for over 30 seconds. (I also cheated, put Cetane boost in a few days ago in the tank.... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)

I worked on the wiring for the heater today. I think I'll wire an "idiot" light so that one knows the thing is working ....

 

[Soundguy]

Be carefull you don't burn the plug out...

Soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Be carefull you don't burn the plug out...

Soundguy )</font>

I will. (I already have an "extra" one....since I bought a replacment before testing the current one).

Book says 15 seconds on, crank. If no start, try another 10 seconds and then heat while starting......

 

[Kaliburz]

Well, the compression test is FINALY done (the shop was busy, so took some time to get to me).

The IT shop manual says for a diesel 3000, the range is 420-500 psi. My little motor is putting out 300psi- that's wet or dry. Number 1 and 2 was the only cylinders he did since someone, at some point, replaced an injector stud w/ a larger one....he couldn't get the adapter over it w/out drilling the adapter bolt hole bigger. He did say that traditionally, the last cylinder in Ford tend to be the worst out of the lot...

I was there helping (turning the key on) and the mechanic sort of metioned that the cranking RPM's seemed low, but didn't think it would affect it too much. After getting it back together, he got a first hand look on how hard it was to start....even w/ the cold start. The shop manager (who he called), thinks it needs a valve job since the dry/wet test was the 'same'. Will have to meet w/ him to see what he thinks... (mechanic's aren't suppose to give an opinion or options.....tha'ts the service manager's job.....)

I'm gonna weigh my options.... the idea of a 'newer & bigger' engine would cost way too much (having dealer installed that is). The engine complete would be about $5500 and guestimating the install for RR....labor could be in the $2000 range (shop rate is around $60-69)...the engine IS up there about 12 feet in the air.

Thinking of doing a valve job and an in frame (roll in new crank bearings and just replacing the rod bearings). A buddy at work can do it....he's our mechanic (diesel mechanic). The other mechanic asked how it runs after getting it started. I said it runs fine. No white smoke, just hard to start. He tends to think it might be a combination of issues 1) valves might be bad 2) injector pump timing or pump it self 3) the injectors themself.

The entire package deal picker and other equipment was just under 17K. And I don't like the idea of dumping 7K+ into it right now. As my buddy said, it runs okay when it starts & it doesn't burn oil, so rings are "okay".

I've got untill early Aug to get what I want to get done....then I have to be prepping it for harvest- putting belts on and checking the bearings for the convayors. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

(Oh, the guy also got #3 injector in funky. It started leaking after it was reinstalled...and that's the one w/ the bigger stud too. Wasn't the fitting, but looked like it was dribbling out of the hole it was shoved into......) /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My little motor is putting out 300psi- that's wet or dry )</font>

Classic valve issue..

Soundguy

 

[Kaliburz]

The shop manager said to the mechanic on the phone yesterday- must be the valves. A head job is "nothing". Take it off and bring to shop. If I'm crazy, replace all the intake/exaust springs and valves...... I suppose that it should be under 1200. I suppoe more will be known after the head is taken off and one can "look at the cylinders.

 

[Kaliburz]

Well, this week I'm gonna open up the engine for head work. I'll know more after it's opened up.

But I wanted to ask more info......

1) Engine- I've been told that "sometimes" when head work is done (making it tight), the rings below are the weak link. Usually people end up doing inframes, so I've been told (if the bottom is that bad). Is this something I should worry about?




/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks....

 

[Kaliburz]

Well, this week I'm gonna open up the engine for head work. I'll know more after it's opened up.

But I wanted to ask more info......

1) Engine- I've been told that "sometimes" when head work is done (making it tight), the rings below are the weak link. Usually people end up doing inframes, so I've been told (if the bottom is that bad). Is this something I should worry about?




/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks....

 

[Soundguy]

Ideally, all rebuilds would renew sleaves, rings, valves and bearings.. But.. just as a fact of life.. it's quite common to open a working engine up and just do a valve job, or drop rings in.

Your call on what you want to get into.. but.. you could always do the valve job, and then comp test again.. and if the rings were bad, all you are out is a head gasket, and also the price for the new rings, and a few incedentals like 'test' oil.. etc.

Without the valves good for the test.. you can't easilly evaluate the rings.. unless you want to pull a piston.. in which case you might as well do all 3 ( or 4 ) and rering anyway.

if ti were me.. I'd do the valve job and see where I was at.. head gaskets aren't that expensive..

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Ideally, all rebuilds would renew sleaves, rings, valves and bearings.. But.. just as a fact of life.. it's quite common to open a working engine up and just do a valve job, or drop rings in.

Your call on what you want to get into.. but.. you could always do the valve job, and then comp test again.. and if the rings were bad, all you are out is a head gasket, and also the price for the new rings, and a few incedentals like 'test' oil.. etc.

Without the valves good for the test.. you can't easilly evaluate the rings.. unless you want to pull a piston.. in which case you might as well do all 3 ( or 4 ) and rering anyway.

if ti were me.. I'd do the valve job and see where I was at.. head gaskets aren't that expensive..

Soundguy