Traction Tire Chains

/ Tire Chains #1  

Elklakedoug

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
39
Tractor
John Deere 2320
Seems most that use tire chains put them on the front. I've seen a few of you with chains on the back. What's your experience and/or the conventional wisdom out there?:eek:
 
/ Tire Chains #2  
Seems most that use tire chains put them on the front. I've seen a few of you with chains on the back. What's your experience and/or the conventional wisdom out there?:eek:

Quite the contrary, MOST have them on the rear only:confused2::confused:

Most dealers/manufacturers don't even recommend them for the fronts.
 
/ Tire Chains #3  
I just purchased a set for my 2305 today. All ice after snow - rain - freezing weather here in Jersey. I installed in rear as I've never heard of front chains. Actually work very well. I ended up jacking up the rear to install and let air out of the tires for tight fit. JD parts guy said no need for bungy cords as was my memory of old car chains. They're staying pretty tight, but keeping an eye on them. Not as bumpy as I thought they'd be, however I have a gravel driveway - hard surface may prove different. $91.00 w/tax.
 
/ Tire Chains #4  
I also live in new jersey and I used mtg John Deere x520 and the chains were lose and some how moved sideways on his tires so I took them of put them back on and then put bunges cords on both of them and they are super tight now.
 
/ Tire Chains #5  
I see you have a gravel drive and one of the drive ways I clean with him is gravel and the chains work fine on it and they don't even make ruts in gravel.
 
/ Tire Chains #6  
Never used them on the front, IMO just asking for trouble. Those that do use them on the front are usually just trying to save a $, in the long run they maybe spending big $$$$'s
 
/ Tire Chains #7  
Well tire chains are not made for front tires especially a tractor with for drive because the front drive system is not made for chains because the 4wd in the front does not change speed when turning the back does and they will ripped any thing in there path when slipping because the wheels don't have auto traction control all there 4wd does is turn to pull the machine and won't stop to and put more traction to the tire that is not slipping so instead you will have huge ruts in your gravel. If you don't under stand any of this please tell me and I will try to explain it better.
 
/ Tire Chains #8  
also a better way to explain it is look at a car with all wheel drive the front wheels when slipping just keeps turning and burning rubber now 4 wheel drive in a truck will not instead the tire that has more grip will get got more torque to it sent from the trans mission a d the other tire will stop in result the slipping tire will stop and let the tire with traction do the work to help prevent damage to the road, drive tran, and tires.
 
/ Tire Chains #9  
I just came in from my shop. I've been working on a set of chains for the rear of my 4200 4WD. JD. There is not much clearance on the inside to the fender. I can reverse the wheels and only gain 3/4". I was given a set of chains, but they were quite wide for my tires. They wrapped around and down the sidewalls too far for clearance. I'm cutting all the cross links shorter so they will go down only about 3" on each side. I don't have a set of those chain pliers to do this and it took me 5 hrs. to do one chain with a cold chisel and hammer to seperate the connecting links. Hope to get the other one done tomorrow. I can't get up in the woods to get my fire wood and only have enough left for about 10 days. I need to go to auto pars or someplace tomorrow and get something that connects the chains and locks. What do you think about just using the cain links that have a threaded nut on one side and then a few bungys on the outside to keep them tight. I'm open for any help out there as to what i'm doing. I would have just bought the correct size chains for it, but money is really scarce right now.

Thanks all,
Clayton
 
/ Tire Chains #10  
I'm cutting all the cross links shorter so they will go down only about 3" on each side. I don't have a set of those chain pliers to do this and it took me 5 hrs. to do one chain with a cold chisel and hammer to seperate the connecting links. Hope to get the other one done tomorrow.

I have done the same for my 855. I bought almost new chains from a guy that had a NH TC30 which has wider and higher rear wheel. I used the vise to hold the link I was working on and a pry bar to open the links. Then the biggest pair of ChannelLocks I could find to close them back. Worked quite well and faster than 5 hours per sides. Hope that helps.
 
/ Tire Chains #11  
I just came in from my shop. I've been working on a set of chains for the rear of my 4200 4WD. JD. There is not much clearance on the inside to the fender. I can reverse the wheels and only gain 3/4". I was given a set of chains, but they were quite wide for my tires. They wrapped around and down the sidewalls too far for clearance. I'm cutting all the cross links shorter so they will go down only about 3" on each side. I don't have a set of those chain pliers to do this and it took me 5 hrs. to do one chain with a cold chisel and hammer to seperate the connecting links. Hope to get the other one done tomorrow. I can't get up in the woods to get my fire wood and only have enough left for about 10 days. I need to go to auto pars or someplace tomorrow and get something that connects the chains and locks. What do you think about just using the cain links that have a threaded nut on one side and then a few bungys on the outside to keep them tight. I'm open for any help out there as to what i'm doing. I would have just bought the correct size chains for it, but money is really scarce right now.

Thanks all,
Clayton

simonds
You have the right idea about cutting the cross links back so the side chains ride up higher on the wheel. I did the same to better fit my 4300.

But IMO the bungies alone will likely not do the job of keeping the tension on the outside side chain. I would visit a farm store and pick up a tire chain tightener latch for the outside. There are several different types. Just a simple hook will do for the inside side chain, leaving no loose links to bang around.

Here is a pic of my 4300 chains.
 

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/ Tire Chains #12  
Thanks for the tips on the chains.
"Beenthere", Did you reverse your wheels around, or were they ok for clearence. Your picture is exactly what mine are looking like. I'll go to TSC. this morning and see if I can get a hook for the inside and tightener latch for the outside. Today I'll try working with the vice instead of on the concrete floor. I did the floor thing yesterday so I could lay the chain out flat to make sure everything was hooked in the right directions and no twists.

Thanks
Clayton
 
/ Tire Chains #13  
Has anyone tried both chains & studs? (I don't mean at the same time). I'd like to hear how their performance compares on hilly gravel driveways.
 
/ Tire Chains #14  
Thanks for the tips on the chains.
"Beenthere", Did you reverse your wheels around, or were they ok for clearence. .............Thanks
Clayton

Yes, I did switch the wheels side to side. Seems to have no problems with clearance now. Even with the cable inside the fender from the addition of the 3rd SCV which mounts to the right-side fender.
 

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