Tire Chains - best style

[John_Mc]

The instructions for mine recommend looping a piece of rope from each side chain up and over a tire lug,then driving ahead enough to pull the chain up and over the tire. I didn't do it that way (old habits die hard), but for anything bigger it would make a lot of sense.

I've tried putting my v-bar ladder chains on in a lot of different ways. The technique you describe is very close to what I ended up using, and saves a whole lot of work, both in getting the chains on, and in adjusting teh tension once they are on.

I lay the chain with the side I want out facing up (don't need those v-bars shredding my tires). Back the tractor up to one end. Tie a rope near the middle link of the end "ladder rung", pass it through a hole in the rim of the tire, out the other side and back to fasten on near the middle link on the ladder rung again. Drive tractor forward slowly (I occasionally need to get off and readjust the chain as it settles onto the tire - sometimes I'm lucky and can just drive it right on). Keep driving until the end of the chain is at about the 8 o'clock position on the tire (as viewed from the outside of the tire). Fasten chains, and I'm ready to go.

Every other method I've tried requires a lot more adjustment of the chain, driving around a bit for it to "settle" into position, then re-adjust/re-tighten. This method generally doesn't require all the fiddling. I tried hooking the rope on my tire lug, rather than passing it through the rim, but it kept falling off the lugs of my R4 tires.

BTW... learned this technique right here on TBN -- just wish I'd learned it years earlier.

John Mc

 

[cspot]

Yep, and the OP has turfs...not R-1's.

Yep, Just pointing out that they are good for turfs but not so good for ags. I have run them on Ag tires though and they are better than no chains. The best is if you can run them a little loose because they will fall back out of the cleats and still do you some good.

 

[cspot]

I've tried putting my v-bar ladder chains on in a lot of different ways. The technique you describe is very close to what I ended up using, and saves a whole lot of work, both in getting the chains on, and in adjusting teh tension once they are on.

I lay the chain with the side I want out facing up (don't need those v-bars shredding my tires). Back the tractor up to one end. Tie a rope near the middle link of the end "ladder rung", pass it through a hole in the rim of the tire, out the other side and back to fasten on near the middle link on the ladder rung again. Drive tractor forward slowly (I occasionally need to get off and readjust the chain as it settles onto the tire - sometimes I'm lucky and can just drive it right on). Keep driving until the end of the chain is at about the 8 o'clock position on the tire (as viewed from the outside of the tire). Fasten chains, and I'm ready to go.

Every other method I've tried requires a lot more adjustment of the chain, driving around a bit for it to "settle" into position, then re-adjust/re-tighten. This method generally doesn't require all the fiddling. I tried hooking the rope on my tire lug, rather than passing it through the rim, but it kept falling off the lugs of my R4 tires.

BTW... learned this technique right here on TBN -- just wish I'd learned it years earlier.

John Mc

Works like a charm. It is nice if you have someone standing there that can help "adjust" them as you drive them on.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I like the rope hooked on the lugs method. I tie the rope on the second link on each side so it isn't in the way when I link the two ends together.

 

[Chilly807]

I have a couple extra links left in my side chains. I wasn't sure how easy the chains would be to put on the next time after I cut the excess off, so I left 'em a little long just in case.

Sean

 

[whistlepig]

They are quite probably the same, in today's global economy there is an excellent chance they're made in the same factory as the Tellefsdal (Norse) chains.

As I said earlier, I really like them, but I have a gravel driveway and woods use for them. They damage paved or concrete surfaces pretty quickly.

Sean

The Aquiline Talons (perhaps your Tellefsdal) are the most aggressive chains I could find online. I have gravel driveways and barn lots to clear with the loader. Last winter was the worst for snow drifts. The B7800 4WD with just R4's and loaded tires was a joke. I'm looking forward to getting these chains.

 

[whistlepig]

I went with the 4 link due to cost, weight and the fact that my drive is level. Also, 4 links were what Arrabil recommended for my use.
I know they won't be as smooth to operate as the 2 link chains, but there'll be very limited use on pavement (my drive is hard packed gravel...my neighbor's is asphalt (but I only do his if requestd)).

They must be pretty heavy. I paid $150.00 for freight to have them shipped LTL to my house.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I have a couple extra links left in my side chains. I wasn't sure how easy the chains would be to put on the next time after I cut the excess off, so I left 'em a little long just in case.

Sean

Probably smarter than cutting them off like I did but I knew I would not be able to remember what link to use the next year :laughing:

 

[Chilly807]

Probably smarter than cutting them off like I did but I knew I would not be able to remember what link to use the next year :laughing:

:laughing: paint marker... it saves me from all kinds of trouble remembering.. what was I trying to remember again ??

Sean

 

[Gordon Gould]

Another good idea from TBN