Tips on MX6 Cutting?

[rmonio]

I got my MX6 this weekend and boy does it make short work of the waist high+ grass/etc. in my pasture. As I'm just starting to get used to it - and yet to dig into the thicker stuff, ditches, etc, I'm wondering if anyone has some tips regarding:
- best way to cut with it?
- hidden gotchas or things to watch out for?
- general overall tidbits about using it

I'm really impressed by how it cuts - in the little that I've done I've notice it doesn't even bear down at all. I have kept my FEL on - mostly for front ballast and figure it is wise to use it for knocking things down in front of me in case there is something in the grass I didn't know about.

Thanks for the insight and help - one other thing that occured when we took delivery that I was surprised by... we had to take the PTO shaft back to the dealer to get them to help us loosen it up. The grease was so tight in it that the telescoping portion wouldn't come out. Has this happened to any of you?

Thanks again for your help!

-Bob

 

[beenthere]

<font color="blue"> - best way to cut with it?
- hidden gotchas or things to watch out for?
- general overall tidbits about using it

</font>

Best way? keep it out of the dirt and rocks, helps keep the blade sharp. For brush, I usually back into the brush with the deck a bit high, and then pull forward with the deck at mowing height, as it saves on the underbelly of the tractor (unless you have the armor plate under there) as sticks have a way of poking and wedging into undesireable places. I travel slow, and move back and forth to get shrubs and brush to grind up completely. I don't run at PTO rpm unless in tall grass where I know what isn't hidden there. About 1500 rpm when hogging brush. Have the adjustments right so the deck can be raised with the 3pt in case you unexpectedly encounter a rock or stump.

 

[RoyJackson]

First tip...if you don't know what's under the brush...Go Slow!!!.

If you have a loader, operate in a forward gear with the bucket low to the ground. The loader will hit any stumps or protruding rock (boulders?) which you may want to try to pulverize, or you may want to go around.

When you first engage the PTO, I suggest you start at a lower RPM (1200-1500). Let the blades extend (my Land Pride manual states 8-10 seconds), then increase RPM smoothly...then engage the transmission.

I also back into some types of brush. Personally, I do not raise the cutter and lower it on any stumps or such. I don't think running a cutter raised is a safe practice. There are a number of folks who do this, though.

Again, unless you know what's under that brush, go slow...especially if you've never cut the property before.

 

[rmonio]

All good points - there are some areas on the property that I'm not sure of yet, so using the blade and working more slowly definately are in order. The idea of backing up is good also.

I've noticed that engaging the mower at the lower end of the PTO speeds generates less noise as the slip-clutch engages. That and slowly taking it up also seems to help alot.

Cutting the 8 acres will take a bit of time, I believe.. but from what you're saying, it's best to be slow about it. It's amazing the things you find underneath... my dogs have had a heyday so far on the mice that come shooting out and running away. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif


Thanks for the help. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

-Bob

 

[rmonio]

Here's a interesting question - when engaging the PTO on the MX6 I find that the slip clutch engages with more of a "clang" then a smooth wind up... is this normal? Also, once the unit reaches speed and smooths out, I notice that sometimes I get a vibration ... is this normal? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

-Bob

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Rob, glad you are enjoying your MX6.

I don't think the clang is the slip clutch. It is the blades swinging off the stump jumper. The whole setup is really heavy and until the blades get fully extended and going round, it WILL vibrate.

I really like the safety switch on the tractors seat. There is no way we would survive getting run over by am MX that is spinning! I have a buddy that bought a brand new (diffeent brand) tractor at the same time that I got mine. His keeps on driving and mowing if he jumps off. Scary.

When you park the cutter, be sure that it is sitting off the ground, That will really help it to last...

 

[joe_ferrari]

I get a vibration out of mine sometimes, more of a low frequency thing, it gets the whole tractor a shaking. I normally shut it down and restart it and it goes fine. I think one of the blades doesn't fully extend or something.

Joe

 

[dmccarty]

rmonio,

I have a JD4700 and an MX6. When I bought the setup I did not get chains for the back of the mower. Nobody lived where I was mowing so I did not spend the dollars. After people moved it I bought the chains just in case I was around someone and I hit someone when mowing.

That mower will munch up rocks and wood. And toss it hundreds of feet away from the tractor. If you see a car or someone approaching at least stop the tractor so that its not cutting into uncut territory. Better yet turn off the PTO.

Last year I tore off a piece of metal on the front side skirt of the mower. I thought I had the MX6 raised enough when I made a turn but I did not. So keep the mower raised high enough when you turn.

If you have a slip clutch adjust it at the start of each mowing season.

I have land littered with wood and rocks. The MX 6 has hit plenty of both and keeps on going. I try not to do hit stuff but on my place its impossible to not mow rocks, stumps, and wood. I have mowed down 2 inch thick saplings with no problem. I just go slow when mowing anything.

Later,
Dan

 

[rmonio]

This is all great feedback. Due to business travel and rain, I've not had a chance to cut more with the MX6, but I hope to do so soon. I was also reading through the manual and noted that they were using jack stands to put the unit down so they could change the blades. Is this how everyone does it? Or is there a better way? Also - how often do you change/sharpen your blades?

On another point - how do the blades extend? I guess i'm just trying to better understand how the blades/stump jumper really work - Mike or others, could you go over how the unit really works?

I'm also trying to figure out the best way to store it. My other implements (Box Blade, etc.) are on car haulers so I can move it around and attach the unit easily. Clearly this mower is a bit bigger and not as easy to attach (I have to take off the bottom arms on the 3-pt in order to connect it. This is alot of work and I'm thinking I'll buy another set of car haulers to manuever the unit around. How do others with an MX6 attach/unattach their easily? Does using an i-match help?

Thanks for the help everyone!

-Bob

 

[dynodon]

Regarding the "binding PTO shaft"....I had a similar problem with by MX5 when delivered. It would bind-up at the half-way-point of extending/retracting. The dealer thought it may be a grease issue also; however, I believe it actually had one shaft side bent (I tried greasing it to no avail...at the dealer we swapped half shafts with a new PTO and found the original shaft half attached to the MX5 was the culprit...I received a new PTO shaft).

 

[dynodon]

I have the I-match set-up on my 3720 and love it for may MX5....I can have the unit on and cutting in 5 minute timeframe.

 

[rmonio]

Dan -

Have you adjusted your slip clutch and is it pretty easy to do? I've not adjusted mine having only just got it from the dealer (they did the installation).

I noticed that my PTO shaft has gotten remarkably better now that I've been using it - but I'll pull it out all the way to see if there are any bends in it. The bugger was sure tight at first....

Any comments on the best way to remove/sharpen the blades?

-Bob

 

[rmonio]

...and yes, I'm looking to get an i-Match now as that should help me detach/attach it more readily.

-Bob

 

[Dutch445]

Don't overlook other systems like Pat's easy change ,
Look thru the forums and read what people say about
I-match, and see if it's for you.

Also, as others have said, be careful in unknown ground.
We had a customer whack a 20" truck rim (old campsite
fire pit) and bend the shaft coming out of the bottom of
the gearbox... so you can hurt the unit if not careful.
(as any unit would be)

good luck, and happy mowing

 

[bomack]

When I did an unfamiliar area near a ravine, a blanket of weeds were 6-7 foot high, I went backwards, very slow, and kept looking behind and down into the slot between the wheel and mower, hoping to see a hole, rut or dropoff before a wheel could drop into it. Of course roll bar was up and seat belt was on!

After I got the lay of the land down the fun part started and I proceeded forward with FEL down low as stated by others.

 

[rmonio]

I've been doing my cutting with the blade down - slowly - and always checking as I cut. I've knocked quite a few rocks out and it's worked pretty well.

Anyone care to comment on the best way to change blades or adjust the slip clutch on these things?

-Bob

 

[dynodon]

I have no insight on either changing blades or adjusting the slip clutch (I'm still in the "rookie category" with only about 15 hours of cutting experience on my brand new MX5....). However, my cousin mentioned that he uses an impact wrench to get his blades off when he needs to shapen them. Also, regarding the I-match....I failed to mention that I also have the Top-n-Tilt which greatly helps the on/off process of switching implements together tweaking angles for my BB and MX5.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

For sharpening blades, the impact wrench is a great way to go. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!

But, you can quickly touch up the blades with a 4.5 inch angle grinder. (They are very cheap, if you don't already own one, and very handy) Just raise the cutter on stands and sharpen the blades while they are still mounted.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!

Rotary cutters don't need to be razor sharp. I have heard some guys that prefer them a little dull when actually brush cutting. Less likely to turn saplings into little spears...

Rotary cutters are differant than a finish mower. They blades are very heavy and are mounted to a large round pan 'stumpjumper'. The pan spins and the blades are swinging from its edge. Startup and shutdown both allow thae blades to clank into the pan. Without the stumpjumper, they would beat themselves to death if they high centered on a rock or stump.

 

[rmonio]

Thanks for the info, Mike. That explains it a bit better.

Do you use Jack stands to do your sharpening (2 ft units like they have in the picture - in the manual)? I have a grinder that I can use to "touch-up" the blades if necessary. So I should be ok when I need to do it... plus I already used my air-ratchet on my finish mower blades so I know the benefits of having that available. .

Your explanation of how the blades work with the pan explains what I'm seeing/hearing also. Is it normal for the blades to stay extended when you start/stop or retracted? I noticed that there isn't a "clang" when it engages if they are extended prior.

Either way - thanks for the help. Now if I just get the darn PTO shaft to extend easier, I'm set. The i-Match did the trick for connecting things up easier, too.

-Bob

 

[timb]

The slip clutch is quite easy to adjust, and the procedure is in the manual.

There are 3 bolts around the clutch, and they set the plate pressure against the clutch spring.

Basically you want to loosen the 3 bolts a bit - use a paint stick or equiv. to mark a line across the edge of the plates - then fire up the tractor and hit the PTO a few times let it slip and knock the rust off of the plate surfaces. You'll know if the plates have spun since your line won't 'line up' anymore. Then set the 3 bolts so that the gap distance is back to the correct spec. (Pictures in the manual). The whole job won't take 15 minutes. The plates can get pretty warm when they spin/slide.

If you don't have the manual - you can get it from Deere. Has all the maintenance procedures, fastener torque settings, etc.,.