Tips for 3PT BoxBlade use?

[FishAlaska]

With the 1/4 inch valveing on the raise and lower 3 pt on a BX24 there seems to be no way to float the implement. Any tips on how not to get waves in your work as the tractor goes over the terrain. Front wheels go over a hump blade digs deep. Front wheels in a dip it dumps all your dirt in a pile. You end up over time with huge low/high spots that get worse. Any way to let this follow the terrain? I assume on the sliding type control you can put it all the way down and float it but with the self centering style on the BX...I don't know.

 

[woodchuckie]

Maybe you could do your work backwards if you have a smooth end to start on and it would level it as you go. You'd have to readjust the blade to do this. You would have to be very good adjusting the 3ph on the fly to do it the other way.

 

[HomeBrew2]

Gauge wheels

 

[FishAlaska]

I thought of using guage wheels but with no float option you would be putting one heck of a bind on the wheels and hitch when the tractor front wheels rise (nothing gives in the middle) and when the front wheels drop (dip)the guage wheels will come off the ground (it is rigid). There is no up or down movement (no float) on a BX 3PT, it is rigid and acts as one long solid piece. Wheels I do not think would be good...could be wrong.

 

[johnk]

Try working the blade in a figure 8. Put the scarfiers down and get it cvhewed up a little. Then raise the scarfiers and give it a shot. Takes practice and after a while you'll be a pro. Good Luck........

 

[MrJimi]

If you go to the howse implement site, they have some good trouble shooting advice.
http://www.howseimplement.com/html/trouble_shooting14.html
Jim

 

[MDM]

I was a boxblade rookie a few months ago. I just takes a little practice. A hydraulic top link would work real nice with a bax blade.

 

[wushaw]

With the 1/4 inch valveing on the raise and lower 3 pt on a BX24 there seems to be no way to float the implement. Any tips on how not to get waves in your work as the tractor goes over the terrain. Front wheels go over a hump blade digs deep. Front wheels in a dip it dumps all your dirt in a pile. You end up over time with huge low/high spots that get worse. Any way to let this follow the terrain? I assume on the sliding type control you can put it all the way down and float it but with the self centering style on the BX...I don't know.

There is no down pressure from the hydraulics so it is floating at the height you chose.
Working a BB takes practice and time when trying to make a level grade.

 

[FishAlaska]

Your right there is no down pressure but the valve on a BX shuts off when you let go of it. No down pressure but the valve is closed so it does not come up either (until you pull the handle up). Wherever it is set, it is locked there. Just like when you let go of the FEL control...it centers and the loader will not move up or down because the valve is closed. No where for the fluid to go when valve is closed, so it is rigid.

 

[Kubotacorey]

There is not down pressure in the three point as other people have said. You are mistaking the weight of the box as down pressure. If you take the box off of the tractor and "lock" your valve, then lift up on the lower links of your three point you will see what everybody is talking about. Patience, time and practice is what it will take.

 

[HomeBrew2]

I thought of using guage wheels but with no float option you would be putting one heck of a bind on the wheels and hitch when the tractor front wheels rise (nothing gives in the middle) and when the front wheels drop (dip)the guage wheels will come off the ground (it is rigid). There is no up or down movement (no float) on a BX 3PT, it is rigid and acts as one long solid piece. Wheels I do not think would be good...could be wrong.

Well, I admit that I have no experience with a 1/4 inching valve. So, I'm always willing to learn. From your description, I understand you when you say it works like a loader ... locked. And I do understand it does not have down-pressure. Now, does the 3PH work the same way if you push the lever down all the way, and hold it there (if that is safe to do as far as system damage is concerned)? Just hard to imaging absolutely no float in any position. Not doubting you, just hard to imagine.

 

[FishAlaska]

Holding it the down position may float it. But is that the process? Otherwise it will not move up or down unless you move the lever (it can't the valve is closed). Hopefully a BX pro will chime in and let us know. Now I had the dealer tell me to take the vertical arms off the 3PT (leaving the pins and the toplink attached) and than it would float but who wants to drive around with it down all the time.

 

[GaryE]

I thought of using guage wheels but with no float option you would be putting one heck of a bind on the wheels and hitch when the tractor front wheels rise (nothing gives in the middle) and when the front wheels drop (dip)the guage wheels will come off the ground (it is rigid). There is no up or down movement (no float) on a BX 3PT, it is rigid and acts as one long solid piece. Wheels I do not think would be good...could be wrong.

I have found always crossing your last pass at least at a 45 degree angle seems to be the best solution. I am not a fan of gauge wheels if for no other reason, they will take weight OFF of the blade. In my opinion, the heavier the blade the better the blade will work. Not to mention in a rocky environment, mixed with soft soil, I do not think the wheels would last all that long. It might be a different story in more forgiving soil.

Hope this is of some help,

Gary

 

[biker128pedal]

I have a B7610 with a Landpride 5' box blade. I just started yesterday digging up grass and leveling the surface for a 21m by 41m riding ring. So far the digging is going well. The ground is very dry and hard but he scarifiers work well. So far criss crossing at perpendicular and diagonal angles seems to work well. Circles and figure 8s help too. I still have some high spots I need to take down. I think it will take some practice and adjustments to the 3 point valve to use the 1/4 inch adjustments. I noticed engine speed also has some effect on how quckly the 3 point raises ands lower.

Any advise on anticipating when to raise and lower?

Mike

 

[HomeBrew2]

Holding it the down position may float it. But is that the process?

Well, I do not know what the process is for the 1/4" valve. But, THAT is the process I use on my '23. All positions on my 3PH float so the only "constant" I have is, essentially, leaving the valve open so the scraper weight is always free to drop. Very curious what yours does in full down position, and holding it there. I assume the manual doesn't address this at all.

 

[FishAlaska]

I am sure holding it down would float it because the valve would be open....but that isn't right. It should have a float position just like the FEL. Lowering it and leaving it makes it rigid...it does not come back up. You go through over a high spot and back diggs to the point it will bog...when you reach the peak the blade comes off the ground dropping your load. The next time you make a pass through the whoop deee doooo you just made it gets worse. I .had the same problem with a rake. My field looked like a washboard and it gets worse and worse. It does not float...I know that. Unlike one you could slide the control down and keep the valve open

 

[HomeBrew2]

I am sure holding it down would float it because the valve would be open....but that isn't right. It should have a float position just like the FEL. Lowering it and leaving it makes it rigid...it does not come back up. You go through over a high spot and back diggs to the point it will bog...when you reach the peak the blade comes off the ground dropping your load. The next time you make a pass through the whoop deee doooo you just made it gets worse. I .had the same problem with a rake. My field looked like a washboard and it gets worse and worse. It does not float...I know that. Unlike one you could slide the control down and keep the valve open

Please understand, my point of view is all about gauge wheels. Feel free to disregard anything else I have to say.

If, in fact, the '24 floats in full down position, gauge wheels will do what you want. If you want to fix your situation by skill alone, I wish you the best of luck cuz I have none and therefore nothing to offer.

My curiousity is how the '24 works, and if along the way you are helped, all the better.

Not having a float function in some position of the lever would most certainly be a total bummer for me.

Cheers!

 

[FishAlaska]

Does the 23 have the same valve as the 24, a self centering 2 way. Or does it have the slider with an adjustable stop in the slot. The 24 valve moves up and down and springs back to the center so there is no way to keep the valve open or open it farther after the box hits the dirt.

 

[HomeBrew2]

The 23 does not have a 1/4 inching valve. It does not "like" to be kept in the full down position ... but it has done so for 750 hrs now, most of the time without me holding it down. Right or wrong. To be specific, the 23 "tends" to want to spring back in the down position but does NOT most of the time. It always goes to center in the full up position and pops the relief. Makes sence ... no down pressure ... just up pressure. On my 23 there is a way to keep it in the full down position ... just hold it there when neccessary.

 

[ovrszd]

I feel your pain Alaska, a tractor with a 3 point that is hard to control is worse than a tractor without a 3 point. I read hundreds of posts about Kubota's 1/4 inch valving before buying a tractor. That was at the top of my list of things to avoid, regardless of cost. I think the advice about guage wheels could be beneficial to you, but only if you can figure out some way to get it to float. Again, I feel your pain. Very depressing when you can't get something to work that way you think it should.