Tie Down Points on Trailer...Few Questions

[NFA Fun]

I have an 18ft flat bed trailer rated at 12k. Will be using it to tow the new TLB I just ordered. Question is, the trailer has steak pockets welded all around the outer frame. Are these OK to tie onto for chaining down the tractor? The pockets are 1/4 inch thick channel about 5" tall with 8 - 10 inches of continuous weld. Went out and purchased good American Made 3/8th chain and ratchet binders instead of the cheap made in China junk at the discount stores, so I want to make sure my machine is not going anywhere!

 

[Blk88GT]

Yes, it should be fine. If you find the pockets aren't in the idea spot, you can always went on a set of D rings. I have both on my trailer.

 

[Highbeam]

I use the stake pockets for a 4500# machine but mine are not built as stoutly as you describe, more like 1/8" steel bent into a U. If the TLB is much more than 5000# I would prefer the real deal of adding honest to goodness D-rings welded to the frame in the proper location. You will have to trust the integrity of the welds. In all cases, use 4 seperate tie down chains with the four binders as is typical and this way if one of the tie downs rips out then you will have the other three to hold the TLB.

 

[mnbowhunter1960]

That's what I use good USA grade chain and I cris cross the chains to the opposite sides of the trailer and come up thru the pockets just in case one would loosen up it would still hold if stressed. I was hauling close to 5000lb tractor loader and brush cutter,and it works great. MH

 

[Highbeam]

Agreed, and it might be hard to see on the picture but the idea is to drop the hook through the stake pocket and then swing it up and hook on the outside of the pocket so that slack in the chain will not cause it to become unhooked. I get plenty of people looking at me funny about this method until their own light bulb comes on.

 

[NFA Fun]

I always drop the chain down through and back up top...learned that lesson many years ago.

I like the idea of using 4 separate binders instead of 2. Have seen the guys with the "big" machines do that, so it seems to make good sense for the smaller ones as well.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[InlineDieselFan]

Stake pockets have been working fine for me, until we moved down to live in the shop I trailed it back and forth many times.

steve

 

[SpringHollow]

A machinist I know who also trailers a lot says not to drop the hook through the pocket and then hook onto the top of the stake pocket (he saw me doing it). He says doing this puts one of the links partially out at the top of the pocket (which it did)and it binds against the top of the pocket. He says this lateral stress significantly weakens the metal making it easier to break the link. If my brother had not just taken my trailer I would take a picture to show you what I mean.

He said to just hook onto the bottom of the pocket. Doing that put the pivot point of the chain loop right at the top of the pocket so tightening the chain put no sideways stress on the link. You always want your chains to be pulling straight. I said what if the chain loosened and the hook came loose. He said if you chained it properly and checked your load after going down the road a little, that would not happen. If it did, you still had your other chains.

I do not know if he was right or not. I still find it scary to not do it the way I always have since it is easy to make sure the hook is binding properly.

Ken

 

[SnowRidge]

He said to just hook onto the bottom of the pocket. Doing that put the pivot point of the chain loop right at the top of the pocket so tightening the chain put no sideways stress on the link.

That would be entirely dependent on the height of the stake pocket and the size of the chain.

 

[justanotherjoe]

A loose chain will happen more often than a broken chain link. I agree about the stress on the wrapped link, but the most risk is the sentence above. If one chain gives out for whatever reason, the opposing one will become loose. Do you want it to unhook immediately?

 

[Skyco]

A pricey solution to the stake pocket/chain problem is here-
Ancra Porta Anchor Outward Offset, Model# 49716-10 | Hand Winches | Northern Tool + Equipment

They also have these-
Ancra Porta Winch Outward Offset, Model# 49716-10 | Hand Winches | Northern Tool + Equipment

Oddly the two links above look the same but go to two different products

 

[Highbeam]

I'll have to call BS on that machinist. The top link where it leans over the top of the stake pocket is loaded the same way however you hook the chain to the pocket. Also, the chain is wrapped around something at the tractor end too where surely some links are feeling a side load.

Side loading an extra link at the bottom of the pocket is certainly worth the added safety to me.

 

[sandman2234]

Skyco,
The problem with the two links you provided, is they are made for straps, not chains. This particular discussion was about chains, and although for most uses, a strap will or can be used, there are times when using a strap around machinery that the strap can be cut on the sharp edges. Most of us prefer the chains as a quality made 20K chain is better than a 12K strap. A little heavier duty can be reached with both, but those are usually the norm.
Straps also tend to be weakened by too many different things, for me to recommend them to the casual user.
Back on the chain note, if you really want a chain to be tight and don't mind the extra hassle, a ratchet binder is the cat's meow. Pain in the tuss to work with sometimes, but they will get a load tight and not as risky to use as a regular binder that sometimes slips and knocks your head loose.
I loop mine so the hook won't fall when and if it ever loosens.
David from jax

 

[Skyco]

Skyco,
The problem with the two links you provided, is they are made for straps, not chains. This particular discussion was about chains,

Look at the first link again- apparently you missed the part in the first link that says- "Accepts winch straps with standard flat hooks or chain anchors.
and you also failed to notice the pic had a chain slot in the device. The SECOND link is to a strap version.

Here is a PDF with more details on the first page of the STRAP and CHAIN versions-http://www.ancra.com/truck/pdfs/brochure_B220.pdf

 

[sandman2234]

Actually I did see the chain, but considering a 3/8" chain is rated at over 20KSI, I can't see using something that is rated at 5500 as a method of hooking it to the trailer. Seems a hook on the chain would be better, less trouble and less to loose if it got some slack in it.
Sorry my post to you seems like I was attaching you, which is how it looks now that I re-read it. It wasn't intentional.
As far as the strap ratchet goes, they are probably as good as a utility trailer needs provided the owner keeps them tight. For securing some items, a strap is invaluable.
David from jax

 

[mytoys]

Hi All,

I have always doubted the strength of my stake pockets, simply because i didn't know how much they could hold. What i do is run the chains through the stake pocket and then hook onto the outside frame rail underneath. I'm sure the frame is strong enough and the stake pocket prevents the chain from sliding along the rail.

 

[AlanB]

What I did on my equipment trailer, was go around and weld some short lengths of chain at several places on the side of the trailer.

Then I hook chain to chain and binder the middle, or hook my binder into the chain on my trailer and the chain on the equipment on the other end.

They hang outside my trailer normally, and so far, have not created any issues.

I still need to spend some time under the tractor and work on better attachment points there.

If I make it quick and easy to do, the Boss will do it (My DW is owner operator of a landscaping / lawncare business) If it is hard to get done (such as when I had boomers not turnbuckles) sometimes it just does not get done.

I still have a constant fight to get 4 chains on the tractor instead of just 2.

 

[jsborn]

What I did on my equipment trailer, was go around and weld some short lengths of chain at several places on the side of the trailer.

If we are going to do some welding then this is the preferred method.

AWDirect.com - DK7 Forged Angled D-Ring


Once these are on you can use chain with hooks or even better screw pin clevises to attach the chair to the "D" rings.

 

[wushaw]

Yea welding the chain link directly weakens the welded link from it's origional heat treated temper. I know trailer manufactures weld the links directly for the saftey chains all the time but that doesn't mean it is the correct way of doing it.
I don't know what their called but they make these rods in different sizes that look "U" shaped with a leg on each side to weld to the trailer so the chain link is not affected by welding.

 

[AlanB]

Somehow, I knew when I typed it, this would come up....

OK guys on the "welding it makes the chain weaker"

What exactly is the rating of your welded hooks, clevis's or mild steel stake pockets that you are wrapping your "rated" chain around?

The honest answer is you don't know. But you hook it up balancing convienience, ease and expense and make a good guestimate of strength based on experience with similar metals.

Very few are certified and rated welders on this board, even fewer work for trailer manufacturers in my experience.

Anyway, Jack, for me, that is not the preferred method as it makes an extra step in chaining things down, and takes slightly longer.

For the OP, you need to determine how often you will be moving / using it, and then weigh out your options from there.