Thoughts on this 10' grader blade?

[LD1]

You have similar weight and tire size (traction) as my MX 5100. A tad less power but more lift out back. You should have no issues at all lifting it. But just depending on how heavy it is.....may not be able to let it take a big bite. My blade is a 7' 700# blade. I would like a 8' or 9' blade at similar weight per ft. But wouldnt have passed on a 10' blade if that was a good price for your area. As others said, it can be cut down.

The biggest issue I see is when angled, 10' is a lot of blade trying to pull you sideways. Which happened to me when getting aggressive with the 7' blade I have and my old L3400.

But before you decide to cut it down if you feel its too much, I'd add some gauge wheels first especially for doing a mile long drive.

 

[paulfun9]

For the most part it would struggle at that price close to me as well. Most with a Cat 2/3 need would already have one. But realistically if he can modify it to work with his tractor he would be saving money compared to buying new.

If cutting it down a bit is an option look at making the pieces that are cut off into sides for it then once HYD is added with quickly attached or removed sides you will find a lot less use fro your box blade. Fab up some good adjustable trail wheels for it and it will serve almost any need.

Curious if the weight is known on the unit?

For comparison I use an 8FT blade with my Kioti

Sorry about this must have been much more tired than I thought when posted. The blade on my Kioti is 7FT, with so much equipment I was bound to mix something up. The blade for the international is 8FT.

 

[FTG-05]

You have similar weight and tire size (traction) as my MX 5100. A tad less power but more lift out back. You should have no issues at all lifting it. But just depending on how heavy it is.....may not be able to let it take a big bite. My blade is a 7' 700# blade. I would like a 8' or 9' blade at similar weight per ft. But wouldnt have passed on a 10' blade if that was a good price for your area. As others said, it can be cut down.

The biggest issue I see is when angled, 10' is a lot of blade trying to pull you sideways. Which happened to me when getting aggressive with the 7' blade I have and my old L3400.

But before you decide to cut it down if you feel its too much, I'd add some gauge wheels first especially for doing a mile long drive.

Thanks, I was hoping you'd weigh in this (sorry for the bad pun).

Ok, it aapears I can lift it ok: Should I be worried about overstressing or breaking the the top link mount?

Thanks

 

[Turbys_1700]

As long as you don't set it at too aggressive of an angle you should be OK...
I've never run a 10' only our 8' Rhino...

 

[LD1]

Regarding the TL mount......under normal operation, its on compression. The only time it tries to "pull" off the tractor is when lifting, or blading in reverse. I dont think you have the traction to do any harm blading in reverse. As to the weight.....I believe its well within the design parameters of the tractor. Dont know what the blade actually weighs.....but guessing ~1200#. Thats no concern on a 3PH rated for 2800#

 

[FTG-05]

Ok, you're making me better, thanks.

I'm not too worried about normal operations but like whne hitting a major bump: the rear lifts up (along with the grader) and on the downside comes down hard - along with that grader +5' out the end.

Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it.

 

[FTG-05]

Ok, you're making me feel better, thanks.

I'm not too worried about normal operations but like when hitting a major bump: the rear lifts up (along with the grader) and on the downside comes down hard - along with that grader +5' out the end.

Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it.

 

[kthompson]

I really would not worry about the blade dropping real fast due to it's size you will not be running very fast. On the lift pins if not badly mistaken you can find pins that are cat 1 on the hitch end and cat 2 on the threaded end. If not then but the bushings that go on cat one lift pins to make the cat two size and place them on the threaded ends of cat 1 lift pins.

Really hope you enjoy the blade and if it were me, I would be very slow to cut that blade off. You may find you can sell it for profit or trade for smaller blade and something else.

 

[LD1]

I still say no worries, unless that blade turns out to be even heavier than I can imagine.

I dont see it being as heavy as my 1620# bushhog. And on paper......your hitch is stronger than mine.

 

[FTG-05]

I really would not worry about the blade dropping real fast due to it's size you will not be running very fast. On the lift pins if not badly mistaken you can find pins that are cat 1 on the hitch end and cat 2 on the threaded end. If not then but the bushings that go on cat one lift pins to make the cat two size and place them on the threaded ends of cat 1 lift pins.

Really hope you enjoy the blade and if it were me, I would be very slow to cut that blade off. You may find you can sell it for profit or trade for smaller blade and something else.

I agree, I won't be in any hurry. There are 3-4 spots on my gravel road where a 10' grader will be perfect.

Thanks.

 

[FTG-05]

I still say no worries, unless that blade turns out to be even heavier than I can imagine.

I dont see it being as heavy as my 1620# bushhog. And on paper......your hitch is stronger than mine.

Speaking of which, I've had a Bushhog 286 for several years. It specs out at +950 lbs before I converted it to clevis instead of the pins. Haven't had any any problems with it either. Next time I visit my farm store, I'm going to see if they can weigh +1200 lbs. I can weight stuff to 2000 lbs. but it's a point load, not a slung load.

Thanks again.