Think tank advice

[J_J]

I don't know anything about this product, but it has perfect reviews at Northern Tool.

Gorilla-Lift 2-Sided Tailgate Lift Assist, Model# 40101042G | Trailer Hardware | Northern Tool + Equipment

I built something similar for my landscape trailer years ago. It has saved much back work. You could almost lift it with a foot to get it started and then grab hold and lift it in place. Some of those units can lift a single tail gate. but in this situation, you would need two of them. You can make them out of garage door springs, and some 1/4 in cable. You would adjust it by putting tension on the spring in the closed position. Then when lowered, it is under much more spring tension. The springs come in different tensions.

 

[AlanB]

I think that is what makes threads like this great. Other peoples ideas that I can blatantly steal

One of the ones on lawnsite or lawncafe had a pivot point that stuck up in the air, that changed the leverages (gave it more) You may need to do something like that with a flat deck trailer.

Here are mine.

Pics are of my 11 year old son, he is holding the gate with his pinky, and lifting with his toe.

Could you do it with a gate opener like a "mule"? Same motion, just sideways

 

[jsborn]

Just a thought but have you considered Hyd. lifts?
They seem to work and you could probably do the same with a linear actuator if you can find one strong enough

 

[LBrown59]

Because of up coming back surgery I have a need now to motorize the heavy ramps on my trailer.Trying to come up with a design to raise and lower the ramps either with a small winch or linear motors.The ramps move freely on a pipe to go up and down.If you had to do it, what would be your idea?.Thanks for any input.The link below is my trailer.





http://www.downtoearthtrailers.com/images/downtoearthtrailers/64530001.jpg

How bout tradin for a tilt bed?

 

[bones1]

That's a darn good job you did Alan.Looks like they were made with the trailer.
LBrown59, you really do have the Best solution, but I have never traded in a trailer and wonder how bad they get you for your trade.
Anyone here ever trade for a new trailer?.

 

[bones1]

Me and my buddy Jim(Beam) spent some time sitting on the trailer pondering the situation.I cannot(never say can't) come up with a way to allow the ramps to adjust width wise and connect them to a linear motor or winch.Somehow the motors/winch cables attached to the trailer have to move with them. Ramps slide in and out, sideways, on a pipe.
http://www.downtoearthtrailers.com/images/downtoearthtrailers/64530001.jpg

 

[AlanB]

Why are you sliding them? Or maybe the question is what are you hauling?

Most only have one trailer, pick that point, and cotter or circlip your ramps in that position, and have your lifts fixed.

The commercial guys run hydraulic, but my thought was it would get more complicated / expensive then it would be worth on that trailer.

 

[dbdartman]

Now I'm thinking something like a 2" square tube "axle" across the back of the trailer. Mount 2.25" or 2.5" square tube to the ramps (whatever fits over the 2" square axle, but I'd make it a very loose fit so if you're not on perfectly level ground it won't twist the axle or ramp mounts). A lever on one side of the axle will actuate it.

We're getting fairly complicated now, so I'm thinking a tilt-bed would be easier, cheaper, & less hassle.

BTW, trailers don't really lose value like a new car or truck, provided it's kept in reasonably good condition. You can get an idea by pricing used trailers & comparing to the cost of new. You'll probably be pleasantly surprised (but I'd sell privately, not trade to a dealer).

 

[bones1]

Why are you sliding them? Or maybe the question is what are you hauling?

Most only have one trailer, pick that point, and cotter or circlip your ramps in that position, and have your lifts fixed.

The commercial guys run hydraulic, but my thought was it would get more complicated / expensive then it would be worth on that trailer.

Alan, I have to haul tractors and vehicles hence the need for adjustability.

 

[SnowRidge]

I wouldn't trade it in. I would sell it outright. People are always looking for used trailers. Those in decent condition sell fast.

There's one more thing you should be aware of regarding the spring assists. If you are not on flat ground, they behave differently. For example, if you back into a spot that prevents your ramp or gate from dropping down as much as it would if the ground were flat, it might pop back up on you. This can make loading a pain, especially when it creeps up about a foot while you aren't looking. I have had that happen a few times.

 

[Defective]

Bones,

Do you think you'll be able to handle a 4' steel pry bar after the surgery?

You may be able to save yourself a lot of expense & effort by learning to apply leverage to your advantage.

I've broken my back twice & done various other indignities to it. I can't lift more than about 40 pounds if it involves any kind of bending or much movement. On the other hand, I can comfortably move 5 ton steel beams around on the horses to paint them with no assist other than my beam dogs and a 4' pry bar.

Do an experiment: Attach a couple of C-clamps to the side of one of your ramps. I'd say about 1/4 - 1/3 of the length from the hinge down. Put them 3 or 4 inches apart. Now put a pry bar between them & see if you can get it to start lifting without putting any of the strain on your back. Just use your arms. The idea is to avoid bending your back at all.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Steve,
Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.
Can you make the 2 ramps connect to the tube?
Can you then make the tube go through the side wall of the beaver tail so at least on one side it sticks out a few inches?
So the tube and the ramps pivot together as you turn the tube.

If so, I would consider mounting a large sprocket on one end of the tube that sticks out. Then get a 12v motor and mount a small sprocket on the spindle. Make a motor mount and place the motor somewhere behind the rear wheels. Then use a chain driven sprocket assembly sort of like a bicycle. You can put the switch right by the motor (on the driver's side) so all you have to do is unlatch the ramps and activate the motor when you get out of your truck.

If you want you could add 2 limit switches to read when the ramps hit the ground and when they are fully up. With the right sprocket ratio, that should work. Maybe even have a secondary sprocket for more ratio? You would need to cover up the sprocket(s) and chain for safety and make sure they are at least 4" to 6" away from the trailer to avoid driving over them of hitting them with something.

I don't know if it would be any more work in preparing for this idea, maybe not? But IMHO it would be very easy on your back to operate and worth the installation efforts.

 

[bones1]

Hi Rob, thanks for helping with this.As usual no one ,including myself thought of this solution. Except you. It's a perfect idea. Yes I can pin the ramps to the rotating tube and move as a unit. A sleeve welded into the pipe could mount a large diameter gear as well. It would be akin to the drive system on small cement mixers?. Next thing to do would be to find out:

1. What HP and rpm for the motor.Would a starter work?.
2. The diameter of the gears, has to move slow.
3. What kind equipment uses this type of set up, to go look at gear sizes.
4. What bar you stop by on the way home so I can so I can buy you a long distance drink or three over the phone with a credit card.

 

[chickenman]

this sounds more complicated than it is

take an electric wench and wrap the cable around a pully attached to a round bar going through both ramps

weld a tab on the bar for each ramp so they can seek their own level when lowered

too keep it simple you may have to decide on a fixed width for the ramps

the advantage here is there is only a small pully on one side out of the way

 

[tommu56]

I was thinking like chicken man




TOM

 

[bones1]

All good ideas but I was trying to avoid the winch cables and go with some kind of direct drive. Winch cables are not ruled out .
Thanks .

 

[SkunkWerX]

All good ideas but I was trying to avoid the winch cables and go with some kind of direct drive. Winch cables are not ruled out .
Thanks .

How about a parallel shaft mounted underneath, that is under tension using a garage door spring? Then use 3RRLs sprocket idea (which is genius!) to connect the "power shaft" to the slave shaft on the ramps.

As you lower the ramps, the spring is winding into greater tension. As you rasie the ramp, like a garage door, the spring is assisting a good portion of the load.

As an add-on, a smaller 12v motor could then take care of the entire Power Up/Down cycle.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Steve,
Thanks for the kind words and the nice thought of a drink, but your appreciation is all that is needed and you've done that.

I like the suggestion of using the winch too. It is a strong enough motor and you don't have to use the cables or chain. I think you could then use gears (instead of sprockets) to keep it as a unit and close position relative to each other. Fasten a large diameter gear to the pivoting tube and a small drive gear to the winch motor spline or the gearing on the winch motor (whatever makes it go slow ). And use the limit switches and covers for your control over operating it.

When you make your bracket to hold the motor, slot the mounting holes so you can install it and the mount to the trailer. Then push it together for the gears to mesh. I'll bet even a small winch motor would work well like that so your amp draw is not huge. I got a small winch (1000 lbs) at Harbor Freight for like less than 50 bucks. Heck, it might be strong enough to hook it directly in line with the rotating tube and eliminate the gears altogether? A light gage cover would keep it out of harm's way.

 

[bones1]

Thanks for all the ideas.I'm going to try a cheap winch motor and direct drive it first to see if it is strong enough and see how far I get.This looks interesting also. http://i20.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/b8/b0/403f_3.JPG

 

[Brad_Blazer]

All kinds of good ideas.
How about adding a floating pipe half way down the ramps to attach to a couple of winch cables? It would have some guide tubes welded to the bottom of the ramps just like the ramp mounting tubes and tie the ramps together while allowing the width to be adjusted. A pair of $50 atv winches could be wired to a common switch to raise and lower it. The speed of those winches is pretty sensitive to tension so they should stay in sync okay.

A hard link instead of cable for the first couple of feet on the ramp end could be pulled against a stop (and pipnned in place) to maintain the ramps in the transport position. This will also stabilize the floating pipe to allow width adjustment. In this mode it might also be possible to use something like the Gorilla Lift and just have a winch on one side since it would isolate the spring tension while adjusting.

I attached a crude sketch of the simplest form.